Sta-Lok disassemble?

[mikebikeboy]

I'm fixing up a furling jib and need to replace a few parts, and clean because the rigging was stored outside and there was a flood, so all the rigging is caked in mud.

I got the furler taken apart except now I'm stuck trying to take apart the sta-lok fitting. I've tried hammering the nut back off the wedge but it won't budge. Any ideas how to get these things apart without damaging it?

Help greatly appreciated! I already searched the internet for this and can't seem to find any instructions on how to take these apart!

[Jim Cate]

Was it assembled with sealant inside? If so, some heating may help. Otherwise you need to beat the hell out of it. IIRC (it has been a while since I've used a Sta Lok, I would loosen the screwed joint enough to generate some slack and then pounded on the lower end... kept from damaging the threads that way.

Good luck.

Jim

[RaymondR]

How are you holding the wire whilst you hammer the Staylok?

[dkenny64]

what I've done...its a pain..


hold the nut in a vise, heat it then take a nail punch and start pounding
the wires out one at a time.

you cannot save the cone so cut the wire close to the nut.


hope this helps


-dkenny64

[mikebikeboy]

Thanks for the tips everyone. Jim I like your idea as I've already scuffed a few threads and that's when I stopped. There appears to be no sealant inside this sta-lok fitting, but using heat I'm sure will help to make things more flexible.

Usually my motto is "if it's too hard you're probably doing it wrong" but in this case I suppose not!!!

[Manateeman]

Hi. Here is the technique I use. First cut the wire as close to the top of the nut as possible without damaging the nut itself. If you nick the smooth rounded surface, you will have to repair it. A high tension hack saw or a thin stainless cutting wheel, your choice, just be careful. Place the socket in a vise. Remove the nut and clean up both the male and female threads and the outside of the wedge. Try to remove any sealant at the very bottom and center of the former. More about the former later. I use a drill bit smaller than the center hole in the former, with a hand egg beater drill. I apply some Tef Gel to the threads and screw the nut loosly back in by hand. Next, loosen up the nut a few turns. Pick a punch the diameter of the wire core or slightly smaller. Try to push the inner wire core down inside the wedge just a bit...one core diameter. Sometimes it will move easily. Sometimes the wedge will release from the nut. Don’t mash and beat it. Next, pick a punch just smaller than the OD of the wire and see if you can extract the wedge. Again, remember the threads are taking the shock so no sledge hammer stuff.
No go at the point? Remove the nut, place it in a vise nose down. Gently seperate the wires bending them in the opposite direction the former bent them. Try not to nick the wedge. Sometimes you can remove one wire or two using vise grips.
Sometimes I flip the nut over and use a small punch on one or two wires. Please remember to guard your eyes and fingers and be patient. I’ve talked to riggers who use heat and solvents and PB blaster. I’m not saying no to this, just a personal choice. I’ve also tried gripping the entire wedge with vice grips but that means a new wedge. I’ve seen very small cracks in the wedges and pits so think carefully...Sta-Lok recommends new wedges so I won’t touch this issue.
The former. Sta-Lok USA told me it is not necessary to replace them. I polish them up with a green scrubbie on a drill but I’m sure someone has a nice wire brush that will work. I made a little tool like a dent puller to get them out, but sometimes they just remain stuck in place. I use Tef- Gel as a sealant and so does one of the largest megayacht riggers in Florida. Again, your choice.
Warm regards and good luck.
Mark the manatee

[tkeithlu]

Mark, that's wonderful. Thank you. I'm printing out a copy to keep.

[Manateeman]

Greetings. While I was writin a reply two members, one a moderator, told the original poster to “pound” or “beat the hell out of it”.
I’m sorry to see such postings.
Sta-Lok recommends new wedges and leaves the decision to replace the nut and or the entire fitting up to the judgement of the owner or rigger.
I do not work on other people’s rigging. I had hoped the original poster would seek the opinion of others before deciding what to do. I simply cannot believe anyone would take such a cavalier approach to rigging as to recommend beating any part of a rig. Experts at all things and masters of none.
Unconscionable. Period.
Mark the manatee.

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by Manateeman

Greetings. While I was writin a reply two members, one a moderator, told the original poster to “pound” or “beat the hell out of it”.
I’m sorry to see such postings.
Sta-Lok recommends new wedges and leaves the decision to replace the nut and or the entire fitting up to the judgement of the owner or rigger.
I do not work on other people’s rigging. I had hoped the original poster would seek the opinion of others before deciding what to do. I simply cannot believe anyone would take such a cavalier approach to rigging as to recommend beating any part of a rig. Experts at all things and masters of none.
Unconscionable. Period.
Mark the manatee.

How about a suggestion then on how you disassemble sta-locks without beating?

I for one have never gotten a sta-lock apart intact. I’ve seen the literature that suggests you can open one to inspect the wire, but the only way I’ve ever been able to get the nut off of the wire is to cut the wire just above the nut and pound out the center of the wire with a punch.

This approach leaves the nut intact, the cone looks OK too. The manufacturer recommends replacing the cone at this point (use your best judgement). I’ve also had limited success removing the former, but it doesn’t really do anything once the wires are bent.

[Manateeman]

Dear sailmonkey, I realize you must be very busy posting almost 8,000 times. This volume alone surely qualifies you as both a speed reader and habitual poster. I ask only that if you wish to quote me, please carefully read my entire post first and then, to be fair, include everything which I have posted on the subject.
Did you fail to understand why I characterized the suggestions such as “beat the hell out of it” and “start pounding” as unconscionable? Further, did you read my original detailed suggestions and failed to follow it without the help of a video ?
Posters to the forum are often looking for professional assistance not anecdotal advice. You might find it beneficial to work within the professional boatbuilding community or at minimum, consult members as to their consensus before posting.
Often the volume of posts is inverse to the quality of content.
Happy trails.
Mark the manatee

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by Manateeman

Dear sailmonkey, I realize you must be very busy posting almost 8,000 times. This volume alone surely qualifies you as both a speed reader and habitual poster. I ask only that if you wish to quote me, please carefully read my entire post first and then, to be fair, include everything which I have posted on the subject.

You posted a very lengthy, detailed post that had rolled to an earlier page that I missed. So I went back and read it. You very eloquently stated the same sort of advice that many others did, including using a punch.

Originally Posted by Manateeman

Did you fail to understand why I characterized the suggestions such as “beat the hell out of it” and “start pounding” as unconscionable? Further, did you read my original detailed suggestions and failed to follow it without the help of a video ?

Did you notice that I posted the same procedure with far fewer words? I know , it’s surprising that any of us have made it this far.

Originally Posted by Manateeman

Posters to the forum are often looking for professional assistance not anecdotal advice. You might find it beneficial to work within the professional boatbuilding community or at minimum, consult members as to their consensus before posting.
Often the volume of posts is inverse to the quality of content.
Happy trails.
Mark the manatee

I have worked in the professional boat building community.

But now you’ve got me. “CONSULT MEMBERS AS TO THEIR CONSENSUS”? What are you getting at with this? Shall I consult you before I post? That would eliminate a variety of opinion. Unless you’re always right and we’re all wrong and need to know.

Matt, not a manatee.

[tkeithlu]

Chill, guys. It's not worth a dispute becoming personal.

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by tkeithlu

Chill, guys. It's not worth a dispute becoming personal.

You’re correct.

I apologize for the response and step aside.

[mikebikeboy]

Hey Manatee Man,

Thanks for your insight. Can you look at this photo of my fitting and tell me where you meant to cut?



I'm guessing the cutting at the red line is not good because it would shorten the rig but I'm a noob so who knows.

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by mikebikeboy

Hey Manatee Man,



Thanks for your insight. Can you look at this photo of my fitting and tell me where you meant to cut?







I'm guessing the cutting at the red line is not good because it would shorten the rig but I'm a noob so who knows.

If your taking the fitting off, about the only way I’ve found to to get the wire out of the fitting is to cut at the red line. Use a small punch to tap the wire out of the center.

Wire is cheap. I’d just get a new cone and wire to put everything back together. No sense in reusing the old wire that’s been hiding inside of the furler.