Advice for inexpensive and smaller
boats (25 feet and under, under $10,000, cruising day boat):
For me, IMHO only, this is a dividing line where I would consider doing an
inspection, as a
novice boater (but generally I'm handy enough with basic tools), versus paying thousands for an
inspection. Do both sea trial and inspection. The assumption is that if it sails during a short sea trial, with the owner brave enough to go on, then it will be in relatively safe enough condition and all
boats need some repairing - that is part of sailing. Ask the owner questions during the sail. Most owners are proud to discuss their boat and some will slip up and say things that give you clues -- so listen carefully to the answers and how the owner describes things. Do NOT fall in love with the boat (yes, too late, but try hard)
That said, I would do these steps:
Hull inspection -- watch more than a few YouTube videos on how to test the hull, check the pain, wiggle the
rudder, look for odd spots that do not look like the rest of the hull (either shape/fairing) or
paint color (flaking or touch up) YouTube is awesome and there are videos that walk you through an inspection (again, assuming a smaller boat and money is tight)
Look for rust anywhere/
corrosion anywhere / oxidation anywhere? Take pictures and ask a pro such as a sailmaker/rigger/boatyard guy somebody that knows more than you. A smaller boat has less odds of catastrophic metal failure due to less overall forces but super important to look at where the rig goes into the
deck and inside where the rigging connects to the
deck (underneath) Again. any signs of metal or
fiberglass being touched up or damaged or corroded... get an opinion from a pro. Wiggle stuff, look under everything you can (down below).
Sailing Magazine discussed common failure points on a sailboat and the top two were standing rigging and
steering. So, check both of these. Assume you will replace the standing rigging unless owner can prove that it was done in last ten years or so. Or get a rigger to just look at it for you if you want to avoid replacement. Some will look at pictures and tell you what they see but in person inspection is usually best. a friend that sails or a
dock neighbor is second best - that usually costs a
beer or two. Many will debate all of this, these figures are my personal experiences based upon owning boats of all sizes. Some swear that rigging durability depending upon how much it is sailed.... ok, but I cannot tell that on most boats so I use ten years as a guide. Has standing rigging been replaced in ten years? My insurance company gave me that number.
Steering systems can be really simple on small boats so relatively easy to check if you can see it all.
Rudder "tap test" and inspect
paint. Wiggle test to see if tight or loose. Check all mounts for rust,
corrosion,
repair, repaint, oxidation. If
wheel steering, then need to look at
cables and each pully. Are they clean or in dirty condition, does it turn smoothly? look for signs of wear.
Electronics -- assume they are older and may go at any time unless sure they are new. Simple test. Turn them on - everything and make sure they run. Have owner do this and watch if you don't know how.
Kitchen (Galley) make sure stuff works. Smell? Look for rust and corrosion, water damage. Fridge working? make them turn it all on and keep fridge on during the inspection. Check again at end of the inspection.
The deck. Walk the deck all over. See if it feels spongy or firm. Does it squeak?
Down below. Check the
bilge for
oil and water, smell? get a pro if you see signs of
oil. Smell can be old hoses from the
head or
leaks in the
holding tank or
salt water leaking into the hull and down into bilge.
Bedding - check underneath each
bed for
mold and mildew all over the interior. look for black spots and any deterioration to wooden items or
plywood under beds,
Anchors and ropes and chain. Go to the marine store and look what new stuff looks like. Then carefully check out the stuff on your boat. link by link if you want.
Running Rigging deck
hardware. Each shackle, bloc and line has a shelf life. Look for wear on anything that moves or slides. Check the lines that uphaul the main sail and the
jib. Is anything worn or bent? Check the end of the boom toward the stern - is the
outhaul shackle in decent shape? how about the lines?
Sails for cruising /day sailing - the sea trial should test each sail. Then look at all sails up close. Tears, worn versus crisp and crinkly? stitching coming out?
repairs can be ok but should not be loose or torn. We restitch our own cruising sails with kevlar thread and they last longer (for cruising only).
Through hull fittings - these are the openings below the waterline. see if each one has a valve and that it easily opens and closes. Look for
repair and look for signs of
leaks or discoloration. Plastic fittings should not be discolored or too "old" looking.
Bronze fittings should not be oxidized or otherwise looking "old" Check bilge for water -- check to see if your boat has a
bilge pump -- does it work?
The head. If there is a
pump or
electric head, use the unit (pour a bottle of fresh water in it with owner's permission) Does unit work? smell? Did owner want to avoid this test? smell test -- the hoses on these units often need replacing after a decade and the smell will be the "old boat smell". Is the
cabin open when you got there? Does it smell like Fabrize or perfume? Check the
holding tank if you can. Is it metal and corroded/oxidized along the exterior. particularly at the bottom?
Holding
tanks for water and
diesel? are they full? if not, why not? do they smell? signs of oxidation along the bottom or anywhere? Can you easily replace the tank? is the access decent or would you need to cut stuff out to get to
tanks?
Bring a friend -- preferably somebody that knows boats a little or is generally handy.
Cash is king -- if you are a buyer and have cash, use the above inspection points to arrive at a fair
price that makes you happy. The boat is all about "happiness" since you are not
buying it for work.
For a
small boat, the costs of repair can be double or triple quite easily so do not overpay unless "she speaks to you."
Armed with the above, very basic tips, now feel free to fall in love.
The above is the actual advice I gave my son when he bought his first boat. I share this as a partial list of what to look for. Inspectors are better but cost real money that can be used for
repairs - no boat is perfect unless you just stepped aboard.
Inboard Engines are their own thing and I always suggest a
mechanic check the engine and engine oil.
Hope this list is helpful. My son still owns his boat and he sails it more than he fixes it, five year later.
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