Reeling blocks in boom

[George1632]

I have an island packet 38 with double reefing blocks in the boom. I accidentally pulled out the back reefing line and am trying to figure out how to snare the block and pull it back to rethread it. Does anybody have experience with this or suggestions?

[D Rock]

I used to own a IP40 and had the same problem...and it was a problem! I finally did get the block out, although it was damaged for the effort. I asked IP about the whole set up. They didn't give me a good answer about how significantly better the 'blocked' reefing system was.

I took out both blocks and ran straight single line reefing. Problem solved and it worked much better, MUCH better. I never needed 'mechanical' advantage of the blocks to reef properly. Single line had such less friction it operated much better.

Use a broom stick or skinny something to push it all the way to the back of the boom and you can get it out from there. You may have to remove the aft end cap, but I don't think so.

Best of luck to you.
David Rock

[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by D Rock

I used to own a IP40 and had the same problem...and it was a problem! I finally did get the block out, although it was damaged for the effort. I asked IP about the whole set up. They didn't give me a good answer about how significantly better the 'blocked' reefing system was.

I took out both blocks and ran straight single line reefing. Problem solved and it worked much better, MUCH better. I never needed 'mechanical' advantage of the blocks to reef properly. Single line had such less friction it operated much better.

Single line reefing, or 1 line for each clew cringle, & 1 for each tack cringle?

[Badsanta]

There are direction links on the Island packet home port site. Lots of help.

[Thumbs Up]

shop vac

[D Rock]

Howdy...

O.K. Single line...one line

Tie around the boom, secure with a bowline tight to boom.

Go through the clew.

Run line through the pulley at back of boom (line now goes straight up then back to aft of boom).

Run that forward to pulley forward (through the boom one each side on pulley), up to tack. I attached a single loose block (to reduce friction) to the cringle on either side of sail.

Then down to turning block at the base of the mast and back to clutch in cockpit.

Reef process
(headed into the wind as much as necessary for the sail to fall - this can vary depending on if you have a sail track system or not)
1. Support boom with either topping lift or rigid boom vang (convenient if run to cockpit (why wouldn't you?)) and release the main sheet. Doing this step keeps you from having to "lift" the weight of the boom with the reef line.
2. Drop halyard to a pre marked position (I use permanent marker) which you already know to be appropriate for the reef. Secure it.
3. Pull in the reef line to snug. Since there is no pressure on the sail, it should come in very easily. Winch to tight.
4. Loose the boom support.
5. Get on with sailing

This should produce a very flat sail. The whole point of a reef is to reduce the power. You don't want a 'full' volume sail. You want flat and I usually then drop the traveler until I need more power.

The whole process should take about 30 seconds after you have practiced it a few times. I always reef one position BEFORE dark regardless of conditions.

I hope this is clearer than mud. If not we'll try more verbage and I will wave my arms a lot as I write.
David

[model 10]

[QUOTE=D Rock;2491997]Howdy...

O.K. Single line...one line , it should come in very easily. The whole process should take about 30 seconds after you have practiced it a few times./QUOTE]


I like the "should part" more than the actual system.

[D Rock]

Guy:

What's the point of this comment?

I explained the way I did it on a similar boat. I can't comment on how you do it on yours. If you have something useful to offer, do it.

Or we could just start another one of those 'I say tomato, you say tomato' thread. Let's not go there.

D