Redoing the Non-Skid

[Cheechako]

Ref: Truck Bed Liners. I've had new metal boats done at the buyer's request with Line-X. Looks great. It's a rough surface, but not sharp like walnut shell, and very consitant looking etc, not too bad on the feet really. It's thick and heavy though. Not sure if they will come to the boat or not... we trailered these to them. Of three boats done, one commercial boat was starting to get a few bubbles in a year.... probably a prep or contamination issue, but this boat takes charters in Alaska , used daily and soaked in salt spray etc daily.... I guess the question is: is the bubbling from water ingress from the edge? This aint cheap either! There are some do it yourself liner materials that look pretty good. Not tried them though. The Dura Bak mentioned above is similar, although more gritty.

Update: I just checked the Durabak website. It's Polyurethane and sold in smooth or rough finish, as well as UV stabilized or not. A lot of pics on the website: http://www.durabakcompany.com/productinfo.htmIt's

[martinjrichter]

I was at the San Diego Boat show and there was a demo of "Flexiteek " synthetic product which is layed down and glued. I have no info about actual performance ... anyone know about th8is product?

They are at YachtDeck.com

[pressuredrop]

Originally Posted by minaret

I've done some commercial boat decks in Rhino Liner. Works good, quite durable, but I wouldn't call it a yacht finish.

how is the non skid properties?

the only appeal too treadmaster for me is that you can drop just about anything on it and not worry about diniging the deck, i imagine the same is true for rhino liner, what prep is required for rhino on a fiberglass boat? rough cost for a 30'er?

[Wishinforwind]

Originally Posted by pressuredrop

how is the non skid properties?

the only appeal too treadmaster for me is that you can drop just about anything on it and not worry about diniging the deck, i imagine the same is true for rhino liner, what prep is required for rhino on a fiberglass boat? rough cost for a 30'er?

Non skid Period You aint skidding. They make a couple of different "grades" of nonskid from smooth to sandpaper. I got a john boat about 5 yeas ago. Leaked like a sieve, old alum boat .. rivets. I used hucliner on the outside and the inside. plugged all the holes like a dream never leaked since. I do alot of fishing in the back slews of the palimico river. brackish water. I have not seen any bubbling a in my boat. and I get it slimy nasty. mud and well just slime. go home open the seacock and flood her with fresh water use a old broom sweep it clean and off I go. Looks a little beat up I will admit. but then I am not easy on the boat tossing the anchor in and ramming her into the banks ( never know whats under the mud).

[minaret]

Originally Posted by pressuredrop

how is the non skid properties?

the only appeal too treadmaster for me is that you can drop just about anything on it and not worry about diniging the deck, i imagine the same is true for rhino liner, what prep is required for rhino on a fiberglass boat? rough cost for a 30'er?

Non skid properties are excellent, but I dont like the slight rubberiness as I mentioned before. Prep is similar to anything else but I would definitely reccommend hiring out the application. Cost-cheaper than Awlgrip. Not sure exactly 'cause I don't do billing...

[bstreep]

When considering paint, remember that you can't put a 2 part paint over an existing 1 part paint. Take a rag with 2 part solvent on it, and put it on the painted area, cover it with plastic and tape it down. Check it the next day. If the paint is intact, you have a 2 part already on it.

For a 1 part product, try Interlux Brightsides.

[cabo_sailor]

While I agree with minaret that Awlgrip is tops and I used it on my last boat about 12 years ago, the price is outrageous. Between the paint, and the other additives one is talking well over a $100/ quart. I'd planned on using the Kiwi-grip in a small, out of the way place on deck as an experiment. The advertised texture seems to match my existing non-skid pattern (or non-pattern). I might also consider going the same route as my last Awlgrip job but perhaps with a different product..perhaps something from Interlux?

Fortunately, I guess, there are a ton of things on my to do list ahead of dinking with the deck finish so I won't have to decide soon.

Rich

[vintageray]

Fill in your nicks and gouges, paint it with oil based porch paint, cast course ground sugar onto it while the paint is wet, let it dry, wash it down with water dissolving the sugar.

[David M]

The really nice looking yachts where I haul all seem to get Awlgrip with the fine non-skid also made by Awlgrip. I have it on my boat and it looks really good and is relatively easy to scrub

[Dangen]

I did mine with Kiwi grip two years ago. I foud it fairly essy to apply, not too much prep work. It took me a weekend for a 30' boat. I'm happy of how it turned out and it holds very well after two years so far. However, it's a bitch to clean. The manufacturer recomended to add a little javel water in my bucket of soapy water. It does make it easier to clean though. I wouldn't recomend doing the cokpit sole, it's traps too much dirt and gets dirty in no time. The stuff grips real fine though and it's not too costly, about $250 total, including the rollers, masking tape( lots of it! ) and a gallon of denatured alcool that i used for final cleaning just prior to applying the Kiwi Grip. And last thing, it's fine when barefoot but a bit too rough when you have to kneel.
Hope this helps.
Daniel

[DHolt]

Originally Posted by cabo_sailor

While I agree with minaret that Awlgrip is tops and I used it on my last boat about 12 years ago, the price is outrageous. Between the paint, and the other additives one is talking well over a $100/ quart. I'd planned on using the Kiwi-grip in a small, out of the way place on deck as an experiment. The advertised texture seems to match my existing non-skid pattern (or non-pattern). I might also consider going the same route as my last Awlgrip job but perhaps with a different product..perhaps something from Interlux?

Fortunately, I guess, there are a ton of things on my to do list ahead of dinking with the deck finish so I won't have to decide soon.

Rich

I was turned off by Interlux when I was redoing my bright work. I used Interlux schooner gold varnish. The stuff was junk, took forever scraping and sanding down the back boards of the cockpit and it peeled within 2 months with 4 coats..

[DHolt]

Guys, thanks I think I'll try the Kiwi.