Pearson 40 for first boat? Thoughts?

[piloto]

Originally Posted by vicpr25

Hi All,

I've been searching around for boats and I found this one and put a deposit for it (I got a few days before closing). For what I read, these are very capable boats and fiberglass work is top notch. Not too big inside for a 40, but if it safer and more performance, its something I can live with..

I went to see the boat, it has the original standing rigging, but looks in decent shape (definitely needs to be checked out in the future, im not a rigger) and running rigging is dirty, needs cleaning or replacing. No soft spots on the the deck or spider cracks. The boat is in the hard, I didn't noticed anything with the hull, no blisters or anything. Needs sanding and new paint. We connected a hose to the engine, de-winterized it, ran it, switch to reverse, turned off, turned on the first try and we then winterized it again. Now the boat is barebones, no A/C, Dodger or Bimini, or fancy stuff, it does have a water heater, but don't know of the condition. It has a max prop and tiger rope cutter. I believe it has the original rudder, not the Mark II.

The only bad thing I could find was in the inside. It seems it has a leak, either through the compression post or the hatch, and that got all the cabin top core rotted and the headliner is pealed off and hanging. I don't think that is a major work to fix. It definitely doesn't look structural, is more cosmetic.

Now, I have a little bit of experience in sailing, I participated this season in races as a foredeck. Next season I want to sail on my own. I know this seems a very big boat to learn with, but I got a feeling that for the price and for the boat of this caliber, is a deal I should not let pass by.

Any thoughts? Am I crazy or let's call it adventurous?

If you guys want to take a look at the boat ad, THIS IS THE BOAT.

PS: got it for less that the asking price in the ad..

Worth looking at the mast base where Mr. Shaw (if it’s his design) chose to set a aluminum mast in a steel foot leading to classic decomposition of dissimilar metals by galvanic corrosion-remedy is to interface between the two with fabricated non conductive base support. Pull up the floor board for inspection.

[Goodxcharly]

I don’t know? Overall it sounds like your in it for the bargain, 16k for 40’ boat.

To get it up to snuff you will be going way beyond 16k into the upNup!

Dial all the upgrades/replacement costs in.

Still a bargain?

[lestersails]

Originally Posted by letsgetsailing3

Starting with a smaller boat will likely make you a better sailor. (stuff deleted)

True for me. I daysail and camp in a Catalina 22 and bareboat bigger boats as often as I can. I am pretty confident that my skills are better tested in the former. More sensitive to conditions. More sensitive to small changes in trim. I feel that on the big boats it is easy to check the weather, dial in the trim, set the autopilot, and relax with a good lookout. On the 22 I am constantly checking and adjusting everything. To each their own, but I think that I improve my skills more with a day on the 22 than a 40+ foot cat.

[Sailshabby]

Originally Posted by vicpr25

Hi All,

I've been searching around for boats and I found this one and put a deposit for it (I got a few days before closing). For what I read, these are very capable boats and fiberglass work is top notch. Not too big inside for a 40, but if it safer and more performance, its something I can live with..

I went to see the boat, it has the original standing rigging, but looks in decent shape (definitely needs to be checked out in the future, im not a rigger) and running rigging is dirty, needs cleaning or replacing. No soft spots on the the deck or spider cracks. The boat is in the hard, I didn't noticed anything with the hull, no blisters or anything. Needs sanding and new paint. We connected a hose to the engine, de-winterized it, ran it, switch to reverse, turned off, turned on the first try and we then winterized it again. Now the boat is barebones, no A/C, Dodger or Bimini, or fancy stuff, it does have a water heater, but don't know of the condition. It has a max prop and tiger rope cutter. I believe it has the original rudder, not the Mark II.

The only bad thing I could find was in the inside. It seems it has a leak, either through the compression post or the hatch, and that got all the cabin top core rotted and the headliner is pealed off and hanging. I don't think that is a major work to fix. It definitely doesn't look structural, is more cosmetic.

Now, I have a little bit of experience in sailing, I participated this season in races as a foredeck. Next season I want to sail on my own. I know this seems a very big boat to learn with, but I got a feeling that for the price and for the boat of this caliber, is a deal I should not let pass by.

Any thoughts? Am I crazy or let's call it adventurous?

If you guys want to take a look at the boat ad, THIS IS THE BOAT.

PS: got it for less that the asking price in the ad..

Moisture meter the entire topside. You can expect some around deck penetrations, but…

[mlspadaro]

I grew up sailing on the family Pearson Albert 35. It was built in the 60s and my dad kept it for, I'm guessing, around 30 years. The deck was a sandwich - fiberglass on balsa core I think. Soft spots started showing up on the foredeck and increasingly spread. My dad cut out large sections of the deck and repaired them (I don't know what he did - maybe epoxy?). It was not pretty when it was done - you could see the rough elevated outlines of each section that was removed and replaced. For what little it's worth, someone else said you'd have to replace the entire deck to get it right. I would think that if you're willing to do the repairs, it's a question of price - probably a very low price!
I think you should be very cautious and get an expert involved who has done these repairs.

[mlspadaro]

PS. I should add that it was a great sailing vessel! Sturdy, performed well.

[merrydolphin]

When in my sixties, I could and did single hand my Cal ll-46. A huge boat compared to this boat. It was ketch weighing in at around 35,000#. It was a Big 46 foot center cockpit ketch. I did have it properly rigged. As 40 footers go, this is not a “big boat”. You can own this boat and learn from other experienced sailors or find a good instructor for a while. And get some experience on a smaller boat too. The biggest issues on a larger boat is handling in close quarters, Eg, marinas. As a US Sailing instructor I have tought hundreds of people to sail boats in this range. When out in the open, you can make a lot of mistakes and not get into too much trouble. But in close quarters you NEED to have skills. Get them, even if you have to pay someone to teach them. If they are a pro, it won’t take too long. Yes a smaller boat in the 28-32 ft area would be ideal. But……………you have a disease.

My concern is that the boat have a proper survey. Otherwise you may become a boat builder, not a boat sailor. And after numerous mistakes on the boat building learning curve. This could get quite expensive and all consuming. I like the boat. Love the interior. And yes, core saturation can and often is MAJOR work and expense. I have the hard knocks to prove it. If no significant core issues or structural issues, yeah. When we and others are talking about core saturation we are not talking about head liner or its trim. We are talking about INSIDE the fiberglass structures of deck, cocpit and cabin top. You have to rip open the decks or cabin top, not just trim. This is not decorative nor cosmetic. But indeed structural The CB and system is another area of high importance.

Just saying that you have a disease, it’s called newboatitus. Keep alert! It can be debilitating.

[vicpr25]

Originally Posted by piloto

Worth looking at the mast base where Mr. Shaw (if it’s his design) chose to set a aluminum mast in a steel foot leading to classic decomposition of dissimilar metals by galvanic corrosion-remedy is to interface between the two with fabricated non conductive base support. Pull up the floor board for inspection.

We checked it, here's how it looks:

[vicpr25]

Originally Posted by Goodxcharly

I don’t know? Overall it sounds like your in it for the bargain, 16k for 40’ boat.

To get it up to snuff you will be going way beyond 16k into the upNup!

Dial all the upgrades/replacement costs in.

Still a bargain?

Got it for 13k, plus (aprox) 16k you are suggesting, puts it on the 30k range, (obviously there will be way more things to fix) but at least 30k still is under the current market for this boat, I've seen it go to around 45k to 55k, right now. I hope is still a bargain.

[Ryan]

My first boat 20+ years ago was a 40' flush deck much like yours but heavier and beamier. You'll be fine. Those Pearson's are great and have been cruised extensively.

I found that the place that the size matters most is docking. Think things through and respect the inertia.

[lifeofreilly57]

Pearson built good boats, but it is an old boat.
Check the core under the mast step for sure, even if the leak is elsewhere it could migrate into the core beneath the mat step.
Get a rigging inspection.
Check the rudder well.
Check the pivot and bushing on the extendable keel, it's not fun to fix.
Through hulls?
check the chainplates.
Look for any crazing around the keel grid.
How's the wiring? I've owned a number of oder boats and am now quite familiar with boat wiring and standards. I own tools I never knew I needed.
Check prop shaft seal, is it a stuffing box or dripless seal? With that transmission it's a bugger to get at that area.
Hows your how to skills?

[nofacey]

Originally Posted by vicpr25

I decided to get a survey for the boat because, for me, a Pearson 40 for 13k was too good of a deal to be true, well.. after the survey...

I'm now an owner of a Pearson 40.

Haha, survey came up with no delimitation or rotten core! (that he could find) And the hull was solid. Some areas of the deck had high moisture content, but nothing mayor that would be a dealbreaker.

Congratulations! Good boat, great buy, lots of learning (and adventure) in store.

[CMH]

I too want to say congratulations on your purchase and to also address the “ boat too big issue”.

I’m in my mid sixties and two years ago I purchased my first boat: a 1984 65 foot Irwin cutter ketch weighing in at 40 ton. My previous sailing experience consists of a US Sailing bareboat cert and coastal nav cert after starting completely green in San Francisco. Before purchasing her, the largest boat we had chartered was a 45 ft Dufor.

Is the Irwin a lot of boat? Oh yeah.
Can she be short handed? My wife and I are full-timers and sail her by ourselves.
Is she comfy? Unbelievably so. I can’t imagine a better live-aboard.
Lots of systems? Um, yeah. Perkins main, Westerbeke gen. Three Vacuflush toilets, five AC units, watermaker, dive compressor, four battery banks, W/D, two refer units, lots of abandoned cabling, a Zodiac with chaps that don’t fit, a Yamaha with a fuel leak…
Any accidents so far? One small scrape (my fault) from a fuel dock during bad weather.
Lots of maintenance? Sure, and way more to clean and I hire out bottom cleaning when I can.
Have we crossed oceans? Not yet, but we’re having a blast cruising the sea of Cortez.

Again:: CONGRATULATIONS! Your 40 is not too big. You will love it!
Chris

[silverp40]

Hello Vic


We have owned, rebuilt and traveled extensively worldwide on our Pearson 40 for the last 20 years. Ive also posted numerous posts concerning issues and projects on the Cruiser's Forum, you can do a search if you like.


I would be glad to answer Any questions about the boat, its systems, built, etc.


BTW, which hull did you purchase? I know almost all the 68 or so boats and more or less their histories and owners.


Best regards
Ovi

[silverp40]

Originally Posted by lifeofreilly57

Pearson built good boats, but it is an old boat.
Check the core under the mast step for sure, even if the leak is elsewhere it could migrate into the core beneath the mat step.
Get a rigging inspection.
Check the rudder well.
Check the pivot and bushing on the extendable keel, it's not fun to fix.
Through hulls?
check the chainplates.
Look for any crazing around the keel grid.
How's the wiring? I've owned a number of oder boats and am now quite familiar with boat wiring and standards. I own tools I never knew I needed.
Check prop shaft seal, is it a stuffing box or dripless seal? With that transmission it's a bugger to get at that area.
Hows your how to skills?

Reilly, the P40s do NOT have coring under the mast step, thats extra poor building practice! Nor a keel grid, bushings or extendable keeel, rudder well, etc.