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406Columbia · 11-12-2019, 19:29

So now I am working like crazy after or before work to try and get the glasswork done for myself since they are overpriced I feel. The bottom job is one thing but dang. Determined we will do the rigging outside the yard also to save another 30 percent on that. Nice group of guys at the yard but that's extra money for more battery bank, auto tiller, a week off work to go sail, etc.

thruska · 12-12-2019, 07:45

406, i think you can be quite pleased with your efforts. Your work ethic is outstanding. Your frugality is the payoff in your end result.
No intention of sounding snarky . Boatyards often have high overhead . They have high profit margin . Many boaters do not possess your skills and drive.
But they may possess lots of money for various reasons unknown. So they pay the piper.
The advantage you have , imho, is that you gain great satisfaction in a job well done by yourselves. And you do not require profit. However , your profit , so to speak, is your savings, coupled with your satisfaction.

406Columbia · 12-12-2019, 18:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by thruska

406, i think you can be quite pleased with your efforts. Your work ethic is outstanding. Your frugality is the payoff in your end result.
No intention of sounding snarky . Boatyards often have high overhead . They have high profit margin . Many boaters do not possess your skills and drive.
But they may possess lots of money for various reasons unknown. So they pay the piper.
The advantage you have , imho, is that you gain great satisfaction in a job well done by yourselves. And you do not require profit. However , your profit , so to speak, is your savings, coupled with your satisfaction.

Fair enough. We just want to get into and onto the water. Hoping the Thru-Hull fittings come in tomorrow so I can get them installed this weekend. Also finish fairing the large patch.

I was planning on making backing plates for the thru-hulls or buying some and epoxying them in place. Putting nuts essentially into the backing plate so the thru-hulls would be bolted into the hull and adhered through something like 5200. Any feedback on that course of action?

I also picked up my size 1 Lewmar portlight frames I made months ago. Going to cut in the quarter birth portlights that open into the cockpit footwell. It should bring in some good light and air for the kids.

If I can tackle all that, wash the hillside paint, etc. then maybe I can finally start glassing the salon lights.

jhulmer · 13-12-2019, 06:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by 406Columbia

Fair enough. We just want to get into and onto the water. Hoping the Thru-Hull fittings come in tomorrow so I can get them installed this weekend. Also finish fairing the large patch.

I was planning on making backing plates for the thru-hulls or buying some and epoxying them in place. Putting nuts essentially into the backing plate so the thru-hulls would be bolted into the hull and adhered through something like 5200. Any feedback on that course of action?

I also picked up my size 1 Lewmar portlight frames I made months ago. Going to cut in the quarter birth portlights that open into the cockpit footwell. It should bring in some good light and air for the kids.

If I can tackle all that, wash the hillside paint, etc. then maybe I can finally start glassing the salon lights.

Go to Maine Sails site https://marinehowto.com/seacock-backing-plates/

This is how I installed my new through hulls and they are solid and I have no worries!
I used 1/2" fiberglass board from McMaster Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/fiberglass
Cut slow and wet with a holesaw and drilled and tapped. I used bronze allthread cut to length. I sanded the hull and glued using West epoxy thickened with West 403 and 404 - 50/50.

thruska · 13-12-2019, 07:23

[QUOTE=406Columbia;3034937]Fair enough. We just want to get into and onto the water. Hoping the Thru-Hull fittings come in tomorrow so I can get them installed this weekend. Also finish fairing the large patch.

I was planning on making backing plates for the thru-hulls or buying some and epoxying them in place. Putting nuts essentially into the backing plate so the thru-hulls would be bolted into the hull and adhered through something like 5200. Any feedback on that course of action?

I also picked up my size 1 Lewmar portlight frames I made months ago. Going to cut in the quarter birth portlights that open into the cockpit footwell. It should bring in some good light and air for the kids.

If I can tackle all that, wash the hillside paint, etc. then maybe I can finally start glassing the salon lights.[/QUOTE

Don’t forget to stop n smell the roses 🌺

(Do you like working with 5200 (the devils glue) ?
I personally dislike it , and use as little as possible.
I understand it cant be avoided sometimes, and may be the only alternative. That being said, what was the alternative before 5200 ?)
Ive seen people epoxy the holes shut. Then select a hole saw the exact size required for the thru hull fitting. Then the jam nut is utilized.

thruska · 13-12-2019, 09:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhulmer

Go to Maine Sails site https://marinehowto.com/seacock-backing-plates/

This is how I installed my new through hulls and they are solid and I have no worries!
I used 1/2" fiberglass board from McMaster Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/fiberglass
Cut slow and wet with a holesaw and drilled and tapped. I used bronze allthread cut to length. I sanded the hull and glued using West epoxy thickened with West 403 and 404 - 50/50.

Now that is a sanitary job , suitable for a boat show !👍🏼

406Columbia · 15-12-2019, 09:04

got a new old stock number 4 port for the door, moved the door portlight to the last salon light position. Cleaned up two more thru-hulls. filled a few low spots with thickened epoxy and some chopped pieces of glass to thicken and obviously some silica.

The wife helped me pick the spot to cut in the quarter birth portlights for the kids. Thanks for all the info on backing blocks, will be executing this today Lord willing. I saved the two large cut-outs from the quarter birth portlights. I will use these as backing blocks or support areas I want to strengthen. The fiberglass is VERY tough stuff and thick. I also got some sheets of G10 on the way.

406Columbia · 15-12-2019, 18:56

Okay, so today we sanded the patches properly after the filling in of the low spots. They came out really nice, then we put in the frames for the two quarter berths. I primed them with epoxy, both frames and cockpit footwell. Then ran a thick bead of thickened epoxy around the frames and put them in place with clamps.

Then we cut out the factory deadlight hole on the cabin trunk and fit in a new Lewmar size 3 portlights. I still need to cut five frames for them. Also cleaned a bunch of junk out which makes the work easier. I also need to re-home all the Becksen Portlgihts.

It looks like we have som much paint flaking off the bottom side we will just need to walnut blast it then barrier coat and start from scratch. At least that way she will sound going forward without a bunch of build-up.

Need to dig out the Raymarine i70 box and get the speed wheel sorted out asap.

406Columbia · 15-12-2019, 19:02

[QUOTE=thruska;3035142]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 406Columbia

Fair enough. We just want to get into and onto the water. Hoping the Thru-Hull fittings come in tomorrow so I can get them installed this weekend. Also finish fairing the large patch.

I was planning on making backing plates for the thru-hulls or buying some and epoxying them in place. Putting nuts essentially into the backing plate so the thru-hulls would be bolted into the hull and adhered through something like 5200. Any feedback on that course of action?

I also picked up my size 1 Lewmar portlight frames I made months ago. Going to cut in the quarter birth portlights that open into the cockpit footwell. It should bring in some good light and air for the kids.

If I can tackle all that, wash the hillside paint, etc. then maybe I can finally start glassing the salon lights.[/QUOTE

Don’t forget to stop n smell the roses 🌺

(Do you like working with 5200 (the devils glue) ?
I personally dislike it , and use as little as possible.
I understand it cant be avoided sometimes, and may be the only alternative. That being said, what was the alternative before 5200 ?)
Ive seen people epoxy the holes shut. Then select a hole saw the exact size required for the thru hull fitting. Then the jam nut is utilized.

I have no feelings one way or the other on 5200. I think epoxy is superior for strength but not everything needs to be permanent for us. I'm not sure if I will mount the thru-hull with epoxy or 5200, to be honest.

**newhaul** · 15-12-2019, 19:17

[QUOTE=406Columbia;3037090]

Quote:

Originally Posted by thruska

I have no feelings one way or the other on 5200. I think epoxy is superior for strength but not everything needs to be permanent for us. I'm not sure if I will mount the thru-hull with epoxy or 5200, to be honest.

you want permanent use 5200 if you ever want it to come apart for any reason use 4200.

Mounting with epoxy is just asking for a leak eventually . ( the thru hull fittings) the backing plates epoxy them to the hull .

406Columbia · 15-12-2019, 19:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhulmer

Go to Maine Sails site https://marinehowto.com/seacock-backing-plates/

This is how I installed my new through hulls and they are solid and I have no worries!
I used 1/2" fiberglass board from McMaster Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/fiberglass
Cut slow and wet with a holesaw and drilled and tapped. I used bronze allthread cut to length. I sanded the hull and glued using West epoxy thickened with West 403 and 404 - 50/50.

Thank you for the resource, we will be following this with a slight modification I believe. This is the beauty of the forum, lots of great input and experience.

406Columbia · 15-12-2019, 19:47

[QUOTE=newhaul;3037099]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 406Columbia

you want permanent use 5200 if you ever want it to come apart for any reason use 4200.

Mounting with epoxy is just asking for a leak eventually . ( the thru hull fittings) the backing plates epoxy them to the hull .

Noted. I picked up a tube of 5200 and still have a tube or two of sika flex. I think I will make up the backing blocks and frames for the number 3 portlights tomorrow or Tuesday and make my decision by then on what to do.

I'm surprised you say using epoxy will eventually fail? I would have guessed using thickened epoxy as you would 5200 would yield similar results but even stronger.

Also, ordered the charge controller for the solar array today. Very excited to get all the pieces ready for that setup. Still might order one more 100ah lifepo battery for the bank but not entirely sure on that either. I suppose it will depend on the budget after the boatyard gets me.

john61ct · 15-12-2019, 20:43

The permanent flexibility the 3M/Sika products offer is what's most prized in the Sealant category.

And 5200 offers more permanent Adhesion than you usually want anyway.