Part 2 - Columbia 29 refit, in the Rocky Mountains

[CarlF]

The old style aluminum toe rail along the whole rail is not common these days. And it was a bitch to bend and then install the zillions of screws. Instead just get some short lengths of T-track - Schaefer's 1 1/4" is a good one. Usually a 3' sections will give you enough adjustment range for the sheets.

Be sure to thru-bolt it with backing. Washers are OK but 2" square pieces of G10 and a washer is even better.

Did you ever decide on the mast painting? If not, figure out if the mast is anodized. Boat's this old usually were. No one painted masts when your boat was built because anodizing lasts essentially forever. But you are not allowed for environmental reasons to have anodizing tanks as long as a mast anymore.

If it is anodized, just clean it with a good non-abrasive metal cleaner like Collinite 850. You can wax it too if you want but the wax won't really add any protection to anodized metal. And aluminum won't be hurt by being bare. Steve Dashew's powerboats are just plain aluminum https://setsail.com/maintaining-an-aluminum-hull/

If it's not anodized or was anodized but someone painted it -- then painting might be a good idea but it's really hard to make paint stick to on old aluminum. You have to use multiple washes and primers - many with really dangerous ingredients. Doing it right ain't cheap and it still fails sometimes.

After painting make sure all of the stainless screws and hardware are put back on with a really good galvanic corrosion electrical isolator. The ONLY one that's never failed me is Tef-gel. Absolutely amazing stuff. On a painted mast any stainless screw that doesn't have Tef-gel will cause corrosion of the aluminum letting water get under the paint - the paint will bubble within a couple of years.

[Don C L]

I know everybody did it back in the day but I have resisted the temptation to drill through the flanges in hull and deck that make the bulwark to mount a track. I just liked the idea of that staying sealed. However if I did I'd be sure to fill in and even out the surface under the backing blocks with Marine-Tex or other putty since the joint is not even under it inside the boat there. At least it's not on mine. I just like the idea of the stress not working that hull-deck joint at all. That's just me. Currently I have two block locations, one for working jib and one for genoa. Not too high tech.
Sure am jealous of all your work!!

[406Columbia]

Someone asked about the mast, were pretty keen on going bare. Letting the aluminum protect itself by oxidizing. Got a couple of gallons of Total Boat fast set epoxy in the mail, just in the nick of time.

Got the Auto Tiller in the mail, the last thru-hull, picked up a bunch of stainless hardware for some hinges around the cabin, etc. Getting a bunch of supplies in for some more days at the boat. So no real work today.

Also, put the Mantus BR1 bow roller and the anchor mate together. Had to get a longer carriage bolt to add the anchor mate, 3/8 of an inch.

[406Columbia]

Originally Posted by CarlF

The old style aluminum toe rail along the whole rail is not common these days. And it was a bitch to bend and then install the zillions of screws. Instead just get some short lengths of T-track - Schaefer's 1 1/4" is a good one. Usually a 3' sections will give you enough adjustment range for the sheets.

Be sure to thru-bolt it with backing. Washers are OK but 2" square pieces of G10 and a washer is even better.

Did you ever decide on the mast painting? If not, figure out if the mast is anodized. Boat's this old usually were. No one painted masts when your boat was built because anodizing lasts essentially forever. But you are not allowed for environmental reasons to have anodizing tanks as long as a mast anymore.

If it is anodized, just clean it with a good non-abrasive metal cleaner like Collinite 850. You can wax it too if you want but the wax won't really add any protection to anodized metal. And aluminum won't be hurt by being bare. Steve Dashew's powerboats are just plain aluminum https://setsail.com/maintaining-an-aluminum-hull/

If it's not anodized or was anodized but someone painted it -- then painting might be a good idea but it's really hard to make paint stick to on old aluminum. You have to use multiple washes and primers - many with really dangerous ingredients. Doing it right ain't cheap and it still fails sometimes.

After painting make sure all of the stainless screws and hardware are put back on with a really good galvanic corrosion electrical isolator. The ONLY one that's never failed me is Tef-gel. Absolutely amazing stuff. On a painted mast any stainless screw that doesn't have Tef-gel will cause corrosion of the aluminum letting water get under the paint - the paint will bubble within a couple of years.

Tef-Gel has been recommended before. I will order some tonight, thanks for that.

[406Columbia]

Originally Posted by Don C L

I know everybody did it back in the day but I have resisted the temptation to drill through the flanges in hull and deck that make the bulwark to mount a track. I just liked the idea of that staying sealed. However if I did I'd be sure to fill in and even out the surface under the backing blocks with Marine-Tex or other putty since the joint is not even under it inside the boat there. At least it's not on mine. I just like the idea of the stress not working that hull-deck joint at all. That's just me. Currently I have two block locations, one for working jib and one for genoa. Not too high tech.
Sure am jealous of all your work!!

Don,

I also like the idea of not stressing that joint. Other than the few areas where we have shot it full of epoxy and glass it really does seem very solid. We are VERY pleased with the construction of the Columbia 29 and its simplicity. It's such a pleasure to work on, everything is easy to get to and repair.

Overall we have done way more than we had initially planned to do to the old girl. We decided to make it a serious project with as many modern conveniences and upgrades as we can fit and afford into her. Things like a water maker, 14 or 15 new hatches or portlights, the auto tiller, etc. Just way more than we had planned for but we are thinking we will really appreciate it for the next several years. An investment I suppose.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by 406Columbia

Someone asked about the mast, were pretty keen on going bare. Letting the aluminum protect itself by oxidizing. Got a couple of gallons of Total Boat fast set epoxy in the mail, just in the nick of time.

Got the Auto Tiller in the mail, the last thru-hull, picked up a bunch of stainless hardware for some hinges around the cabin, etc. Getting a bunch of supplies in for some more days at the boat. So no real work today.

Also, put the Mantus BR1 bow roller and the anchor mate together. Had to get a longer carriage bolt to add the anchor mate, 3/8 of an inch.

Are you running chain or rode on the anchor

[406Columbia]

all chain, 200 feet of high test 1/4"

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by 406Columbia

all chain, 200 feet of high test 1/4"

what are you planning to use for a chain hook to attach from the chain to the bridle?

Here a picture of my setup and my gallery of it

[406Columbia]

Originally Posted by newhaul

what are you planning to use for a chain hook to attach from the chain to the bridle?

Here a picture of my setup and my gallery of it

Not sure what we will use for a chain hook, to be honest. Anything commercially available you guys suggest? We don't mind fabbing stuff but were trying to do less of it with the existing work we really need to do.

But like I said if anyone has some really good suggestions for ground tackle let us know.

We got in a couple of sheets of G10 and received a set of Magma stainless nesting pots for the mini galley today as Christmas gifts. Found a seller on eBay that sold us two large sheets of 1/4'' for a very fair price with free shipping I think. Plan to use it for backing plates, reinforcement, etc. We still need to figure out what to do with the forestay chainplate blocks. I need to get a picture to show you guys what I mean.

Also need some larger hole saw bits for the drill press, anyway hoping to get lots done this week.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by 406Columbia

Not sure what we will use for a chain hook, to be honest. Anything commercially available you guys suggest? We don't mind fabbing stuff but were trying to do less of it with the existing work we really need to do.

But like I said if anyone has some really good suggestions for ground tackle let us know.
.

yes I have a good idea email me your address . You will have to provide your own shackles and rode for the bridle.
I have several already cut out and drilled .
That is if you want one

3/8 304 ss

[406Columbia]

Originally Posted by newhaul

yes I have a good idea email me your address . You will have to provide your own shackles and rode for the bridle.
I have several already cut out and drilled .
That is if you want one

3/8 304 ss

email sent

[406Columbia]

pictures of the G10 sheet and of us making the backing blocks out of 3/4 oak and red oak. I also did a couple of samples out of marine ply. Dry fit they work perfectly did three I believe out of 4'' circles and one that was 5''.

Now that we know that combo works I may cut the finals out of 3/4'' g10 or just use the oak since it came out really good. Had some issues with the series 93 thru-hull that was 1''. The hole saw size they call out for the backing block wasn't accurate. Ended up having to make a barrel sander and open it up some more. I wish I had a Dremel attachment that was a barrel sander. That's would have saved hours of our time but oh well.

I don't think we would have any issues using the oak or even marine ply but I figure if we do g10 it will never ever have moisture issues at all and be a one and done deal. What do you guys think?

[406Columbia]

I worked all day on the plumbing. Drains for the cockpit, redoing the water lines from the bilge pump also. Driving all around town trying to find the right marine grade water lines. We had a little water issue the other day after it rained for two days straight. So I figured I needed to get the pipes sorted out ASAP. I didn't get any grinding done today at all so that's on my list of stuff to do tomorrow as well as install the Smart Plug.

I need to start getting the mast steps installed, not sure how I will do that. Maybe a chalk line or something like a laser. Then tap all the holes and put some tef-gel in and call it good.

[406Columbia]

Quick question, has anyone else re-routed the cockpit drains? It seems like a bad design to have the cockpit drain into the bilge area and then out below the waterline. I would love to take a look at the boat tomorrow and see if it's possible to drain the cockpit out above the waterline, thoughts?

One thing that might prevent this is the height above the waterline, but not sure. Hopefully, someone will chime in.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by 406Columbia

Quick question, has anyone else re-routed the cockpit drains? It seems like a bad design to have the cockpit drain into the bilge area and then out below the waterline. I would love to take a look at the boat tomorrow and see if it's possible to drain the cockpit out above the waterline, thoughts?

One thing that might prevent this is the height above the waterline, but not sure. Hopefully, someone will chime in.

not on this boat but I had considered doing that with the cockpit drain on the islander being as how there is an outboard in a well on it and on yours . Just a short pvc pipe out the back into the lazzerette .