New design build Ally 40 footer

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by UNCIVILIZED

Edit: On the layout. Might it be possible to convert one of the aft cabins into a room with a dedicated work bench, including a vise. Along with built in shelves to provide for storage underneath. With stowed items to be organized in plastic bins (with lids), & milk crates, etc. Along with an oilskins locker with a built in dryer (from the engine).

Plus some dedicated storage for sails, spare running rigging, & an inflatible plus it's OB. I should think that with some proper racks, shelves, & bins, such a room would be invaluable in a cruiser. As other than in a charter boat, a 3rd stateroom is a bit unnecessary, & the space can be put to better use.
And before you ask, yes, I'm jealous of Skip Novak's setup in his boat Pelagic

I agree one of the aft cabins could be re-purposed for workshop/storage. This could be combined with the head with access through the head to the storage/workshop area. A single head forward is not in the best location when at sea.

[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by mitiempo

I agree one of the aft cabins could be re-purposed for workshop/storage. This could be combined with the head with access through the head to the storage/workshop area. A single head forward is not in the best location when at sea.

In this case, then it would be nice to have the commode compartment sited back aft, & turn the forward compartment into just a shower. Though I'm perhaps more a fan of a seperate workshop, than one that's cramped underneath of the cockpit seats due to relocating the head.

As when you situate spaces back aft like this, real estate which has standing headroom tends to be pretty limited. And most folks would probably favor giving the aft head compartment sufficient space, vs. to a work bench. Sadly.

Though strictly speaking, standing headroom for the head itself isn't a necessity. So it's possible to do some juggling when it comes to the locations of the various items competing for room in this location.

Much of what will or won't work depends on the configuration of the deck & cockpit seating there. 3D design of spaces can be a bi*ch.

[Stuarth44]

Thank you Anne
I take your point about stowage under the salon there but in this case I thought
the water was much more important for a small expedition yacht like this
under the SolesThere will need to be a black or grey water tank there

Yes Uncivilized
Flush deck boats are very rare these days
As you can see this one has compound shape with a fair amount of crown height
I never thought aboutfwd facing Windows much s but you are right the original boat had a bubble in the cabin top so that they could look out it was a great idea and to this day the perspex bubble is still there it was made especially for the boat
Any sailing yacht you want to keep weight towards the middle of the boat to stop pitching you can even have a chain locker positioned well back from the bow
Freshwater tankage stands at over 500 litres per side
When full up the boat will indeed be very stiffly ballasted
Thi keel lis quite easy to build in metal

bulbs are difficult to form indeed
i once saw a bulb built for ALLOY YACHTS NZ by BOS AND CARR it was a mission with 90 tonne lead

The work was done by bus and car boat builders in New Zealand for alloy yachts New Zealand and it was a tricky tricky job with very heavy plate to get a great day of school to make that keell
As for CNC I never do it I just lost the plate onto a full size plate of aluminium draw a line and cut it out with a very good sharp saw
It is amazing how tight a radius you can cut with a hand electric saw
I might look at cut files later but right now I have no idea how to generate such CAD is not so easy for me to master little by little taken me years to get this far I took online lessons sometimes 5 hours as a time given freely by a friend of mine over the Internet in exchange for this I taught him how to draw the structure of a metal boat in order to pass survey

good idea abt workspace aft, dive gear etc

[Stuarth44]

90 tonne bulb keel bos and carr nz
Bos and Carr Boat Builders
i gave them a rebuild in the 90,s and another large build later, they worked for me for a brief period before going out on there own, best in NZ
20MM PLATE

[Stuarth44]

OH WELL A CUPPLA CLICKS WILL Make her 45 feet,

[Stuarth44]

Thank you very much all of you people it is nice to get your feedback I will digest all your suggestions and input later
I really miss working with my hands and hope like hell I will work again when my stroke has healed if that happens I will be truly blessed I am looking at a new Miller 350 p with aluma gun
I have a shed full of old 3 phase Miller and Hobart Transformer welders they are absolutely Indestructible but to feeders for them these days is pretty much impossible
The Miller works on single phase to I'm just a little bit worried that if I import it from the USA and something stuffs up they will not fix it here they are a bit like that if you don't buy it from them they are not interested even though they are Miller representatives
Probably pay 15000 dollars here whereas from cyberweld I can buy it for 6 and a half thousand dollars US

[Snowpetrel]

Whats your reason for not going with a simple transom hung rudder? Looks like the perfect stern for it.

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[Stuarth44]

Thank you Snow Petrel you are exactly right the original boat had a transom hung Rudder and a skeg you know I do not like skegs so I will build a very strong Rudder with very good pintles and gudgeons I will then make a slot in the transom where a Tiller can go through and be connected to a wheel steering system thank you for jogging my memory the original Kate had a trim tab on the trailing edge of the Rudder
to a wind vane horizontal Axis it work brilliantly and from New Zealand to Tahiti they did not have to touch the steering at all she had a Tiller there is a link to that boat in this thread very successful I have just received a mast plan it is quite a tall rig the overall length of the spa is 16.2 metres I will try and get it into the thread somehow but I have no idea how to it is on PDF form we have fixed displacement at 9 tonnes with 3.5 tons of lead and all that-water BALLAST

[Stuarth44]

ok transom hung rudder span not final yet

[Snowpetrel]

Nice!

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[UNCIVILIZED]

I forgot to say as much earlier, but it's nice to see a design that's outside of the usual, which are aimed at those new to sailing, who want boats to be like houses. With the nod being given to room, & spacious interior design over practicality, & seamanlike features. Pretty over functional.

Here's one of the clips where Skip Novak walks you through both of his professional expeditioning boats, which were designed from the outset to be working boats, & to be rugged, & practical. Though they’re attractive to my eye, too.

He gives a good explanation of the reasoning behind the design of the storage setups. Which are quite excellent, & remind me of the storage on "pleasure craft" on Post War wooden yachts. Which also had loads of dedicated storage space in the forepeak, in lieu of bunks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L23OJOrOez4

I’d thought about suggesting sketching some lines for a hard dodger for your boat, but didn't. Though, thankfully, Skip mentions them. And in an expedition type boat, I can’t see being without one.

I hadn't much thought about difficulties with pouring bulbs. Probably because I've been immersed & involved with them since early on in their history. Including modifying them DIY style, & making molds, as well as pouring them from time to time. Occasionally in backyards while wearing flip flops, AKA Hawaiian safety shoes as the joke went at the time

But some delta bulbs are much simpler to construct than other bulbs. In that I’m referring to those which are just lead isosceles triangles attached to the keel, or integral to it. Much as are on some of Dudley Dix’s designs aimed at home builders.
These boats just have simple to construct, steel fins, with integral lead filled bulbs at the bottom. http://dixdesign.com/38didi.htm

With bulbs of this type, the metal skin is constructed first, & then the lead is added to it from above through the fin. Though much of the lead can even be placed inside prior to finishing the keel’s skins, in solid form. With a pour being done later to fill in the rest of the bulb, & to make everything into a fairly one-piece unit.

On water tankage, it occurred to me that it would be best to keep the tanks away from the skin of the ship as much as possible, above the waterline. Especially if she's to be a boat designed to operate in colder climates. Otherwise you'll continually have to deal with your drinking water being frozen, & the internal ice beating up the tanks. Something which I picked up from Snowpetrel's blog. And he's also got some good stuff on hard dodgers. Again, an essential feature in any serious sailing yacht. Particularly for those that operate in the proposed latitudes.

[Stuarth44]

I will reply to the last post LATER
Thank you when I have a few moments but I know what you mean about a solid dodger here is another 40 footer I built 2 of and I put a solid dodger on one of them and she circumnavigate it it was a godsend pic follows

[Stuarth44]

on a Cape 40 i built for Tony EVENS NZ

[Snowpetrel]

I remember the cape 40 "caper" I think it was? Nice boat.

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[Juho]

Originally Posted by UNCIVILIZED

Such designs also have the perk of allowing some of the tankage to be put underneath of the cabin sole, in the part of the boat underneath of that aft coach house. And to be able to do so without giving up proper headroom inside. Quite the opposite really, as when done correctly, they raise one's height of eye up enough so that it's easy to see 360 degrees while standing inside of the cabin. So some of the older designs definitely had things right in this regard.

I have learned to like the approach where you can see 360 degrees while sitting in the cabin. Even more tankage and storage space that way.