Mayflower Stadel or Mariner 48 Owners

[oveaar]

Originally Posted by MarathonBob

I'm the owner of a 48' Mayflower 1979 model the name is Miss Maverick, the guy is 83 and some time do not recollect where the boat is. It is a big project. Anyone replaced the deck on this boats? Hydraulic steering? any info welcomed.

Hi Bob, could you detail your questions to make us understand what information you're asking for?

[MarathonBob]

Thank you oveer. I'd like to know how to bleed the hydraulic for starters. Than if anyone replaced the deck on Mayflower any info welcome.
She has Perkins 4.236 and no prop, what prop is best for her? The tran is 1.91 to the best of my knowledge so I figure 20R18 will do. Any suggestions?
Also anyone in a know of this particular boat, any info is appreciated. Best regards.

[oveaar]

Originally Posted by MarathonBob

Thank you oveer. I'd like to know how to bleed the hydraulic for starters. Than if anyone replaced the deck on Mayflower any info welcome.
She has Perkins 4.236 and no prop, what prop is best for her? The tran is 1.91 to the best of my knowledge so I figure 20R18 will do. Any suggestions?
Also anyone in a know of this particular boat, any info is appreciated. Best regards.

Hi

1)The max size for propeller and optimized for Perkins 4.236 at 2600 rpm max with the gear ratio of 1,91 is outer diameter of 21 inches by 15 inch ratio
2)The procedure for bleeding the hydraulic steering system as I recall from the last time I did this (2003) is:
two persons required, one for operating the steering wheel and one to bleed.
ensure the hydraulic oil level is topped up int the mechanical steering pump beneath the pedestal, and keep attention to have liquid present under the hole bleeding operation. Keep the filling plug on top of the pump open until you have completed the operation.
I believe you have two hydraulic cylinders attached to the rudder tiller under the bed in the master cabin. The hose connection in the opposite end of the piston has to be used for venting. Your assistant starts turning the wheel slowly in an agreed direction while you are bleeding the relevant cylinder. It is recommended that you stop bleeding before the rudder is in outer position. Repeat to the other side by venting respective cylinder and repeat to each side until no air is present. To test turn the wheel hard to end of either side, the wheel should stay firm and not turn further when using force in the steered direction.
Please note that the hoses from the mechanical pump to the cylinders should have a positive slope if possible to avoid air pockets.
Please also note that if you have problems with the steering it could also be caused by wear in the cylinders pistons gaskets allowing the oil to escape to the return side. It is recommended to change those, you can easy do it your self, no special tools required and the cost for the o-rings is just a few dollars.

3) replacing teak deck: your deck planking is fixed from underneath the deck with SS screws. In order to access these you have to dismantle all ceiling panels under deck. The screws may be difficult to loosen, and also some may be hidden under wood for fixing ceiling panels etc. You might have to grind the head of the screws where you cannot manage by screwdriver. The teak deck is also bonded by use of product similar to Sikaflex. So my recommendation is to try to remove as much screws as possible before starting to try to remove deck planks, which might be a struggle:-)

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, MarineAlf.

See:

➥ http://ahawaii.com/jamtlander/mayflower48history.xhtml

➥ http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=3450

➥ http://www.sailnet.com/boatchk/showp...p?product=1152

[oveaar]

Originally Posted by oveaar

Hi

1)The max size for propeller and optimized for Perkins 4.236 at 2600 rpm max with the gear ratio of 1,91 is outer diameter of 21 inches by 15 inch ratio
2)The procedure for bleeding the hydraulic steering system as I recall from the last time I did this (2003) is:
two persons required, one for operating the steering wheel and one to bleed.
ensure the hydraulic oil level is topped up int the mechanical steering pump beneath the pedestal, and keep attention to have liquid present under the hole bleeding operation. Keep the filling plug on top of the pump open until you have completed the operation.
I believe you have two hydraulic cylinders attached to the rudder tiller under the bed in the master cabin. The hose connection in the opposite end of the piston has to be used for venting. Your assistant starts turning the wheel slowly in an agreed direction while you are bleeding the relevant cylinder. It is recommended that you stop bleeding before the rudder is in outer position. Repeat to the other side by venting respective cylinder and repeat to each side until no air is present. To test turn the wheel hard to end of either side, the wheel should stay firm and not turn further when using force in the steered direction.
Please note that the hoses from the mechanical pump to the cylinders should have a positive slope if possible to avoid air pockets.
Please also note that if you have problems with the steering it could also be caused by wear in the cylinders pistons gaskets allowing the oil to escape to the return side. It is recommended to change those, you can easy do it your self, no special tools required and the cost for the o-rings is just a few dollars.

3) replacing teak deck: your deck planking is fixed from underneath the deck with SS screws. In order to access these you have to dismantle all ceiling panels under deck. The screws may be difficult to loosen, and also some may be hidden under wood for fixing ceiling panels etc. You might have to grind the head of the screws where you cannot manage by screwdriver. The teak deck is also bonded by use of product similar to Sikaflex. So my recommendation is to try to remove as much screws as possible before starting to try to remove deck planks, which might be a struggle:-)

Additional tip: The SS screws used i pretty long, if the deck has been sanded down a couple of times you might be able to see the top of the screws from outside. Then you can use a tin round dor/ chisel and just force them down by using a hammer on the dor from deckside, this I have done on my boat.

[oveaar]

Originally Posted by oveaar

I've just replaced the fuel tanks in my 1980 Mayflower model. This required removal of the flooring of the hole SB side area and some of the Port side are, enabling you to remove the port tank first and then slide down the SB. Installing is reversed. To get the tanks out of the boat I had to remove the cockpit hatch and make a triangle shaped cutout in front to extend the existing opening to make passage.
I replaced with stainless steel tanks of the same size.
Yes it is a lot of work and I believe costly if you have to get it done by a workshop. I would estimate 2 skilled people would use a week to do the job. And then its the cost of the new tanks that has to be custom prefabricated, only for the material of quality SS316 I paid 1400 US$. I had access to a workshop that fabricated the tanks for free, but i belive it would have costed 2000US$ per tank + material cost to get it fabricated from a commercial workshop (Norwegian price level).
I guess in US you might get i cheaper and you could also use carbon steel which is quite cheaper.

Correction: in the first sentences Port should be Starboard and visa verse..

[MarathonBob]

Great! Thank you for the reply. Your information is greatly appreciated. If you don't mind I will post questions in the order they come. Actually I have one more: anyone have the sails plans for her?

I'm glad that this thread is alive and watched. Have a great sailing!

[GordMay]

According to FX sails ➥ FX Sails Instant Online Sail Pricing

MAYFLOWER 48
Rig Dimensions:
I: 53.8
J: 17
P: 49
E: 16

[oveaar]

[QUOTE=MarathonBob;1216626]Great! Thank you for the reply. Your information is greatly appreciated. If you don't mind I will post questions in the order they come. Actually I have one more: anyone have the sails plans for her?

I'm glad that this thread is alive and watched. Have a great sailing![/QUOTE

Hi,
Try sailboatdata.com
Ove

[oveaar]

http://www.mauriprosailing.com/us/ca...flower-48.html

[Mattf]

Hello, I am brand new here. I am interested in learning more about the Mayflower/Stadel/Mariner boat. I am currently in the early stages of deciding on a boat to buy and the Mayflower meets most of the criteria I have.

My first question would be: What is reasonable offer for a boat like this in fair/good condition?

Thanks in advance for any replies.

[oveaar]

Originally Posted by Mattf

Hello, I am brand new here. I am interested in learning more about the Mayflower/Stadel/Mariner boat. I am currently in the early stages of deciding on a boat to buy and the Mayflower meets most of the criteria I have.

My first question would be: What is reasonable offer for a boat like this in fair/good condition?

Thanks in advance for any replies.

Hi Matt
It is difficult to tell you a resonable price. It depends on the conditin of the boat and you should use a well recognised surveyor to check it out.
Also it i the buyer's market and it depends on the seller's urge of money and of course other interested buyers offers.
But there is several Mariners for sale when searching internet and when you look at the prices it goes from 140k to 200k for vessels in a fair condition.
Good look!

[Mattf]

Oveaar,
Thank you for your reply. I have seen a few Mayflower Mariners for sale on the internet. I am planning on visiting San Diego in 2 weeks to view one and then travel up the coast to view a few other boats. I have bought and sold various things (houses, machinery and equipment, real estate etc) over the years and with each transaction it seems that there are customary and expected behaviors from both buyer and seller. I am trying to get comfortable with that process before I make myself look silly.

That being said, do you or have you owned a Mariner? If so, do you have any impressions of the boat that you would share?

Thanks again for your time and I hope to be able to do the same for some other new guy in the future.

Matt

[oveaar]

Hi Matt
Yes I am an owner of a Mayflower 48 1980 model named Felicity of which I purchased in Ruskin year 2003 and sailed home to Norway after some months on the hard to get it going in a safe manner. She was pretty neglicted but the price reflected the condition. I have been refurbishing ever since :-).
Working with the upholstry for the time being. My version is originally the 2 cabin, but I have built a third cabin by moving the pantry to the starboard side accross the main saloon.
If you look at the threads herein you will find som information about the Mayflower. It is a perfect and safe boat for oversea crossing/offshore voyages, but you will find that it needs it Skipper when it comes to manouvre out and in to quay's or in between other moored boats due to the semi-keel. It is a huge difference compared to a boat with finn-keel.
Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions
Ove

[overtheyardarm]

REPLACING TEAK
Just in the midst of replacing my decks, Not an easy job. I now have 3 years into this every square inch inside and out project. I originally was trying to keep the teak so it was sanded down and caulking cut out of the seams. But just as I am starting to put the new interior panels over my new insulated deck head I figured what the hell , no sense leaving old dead teak to look it so off it came . Here is the low down (some already mentioned)
- there is no coring in the decks so there is nothing to rot.
-teak is screwed on from below, so no bung plugs, but, as teak gets worn screws poke through proving a water path for leaks. Any screws removed can be sealed from below.
-teak was installed with the deck on the shop floor then fiberglass supports laminated over and then glassed to the hull so many screws are not accessible.
- teak is very difficult to remove as it is completely bedded.
-tools required are a wood mallet flat surface chisel, pry bars and a fein multimaster with cutting blade. Pry up and cut the caulking an inch at a time with the fein.
- shave off remaining caulk with the fein and grind off screws.
-grind off whats left of the gel coat, and prep for fiberglass laminate.
-Finish with material of choice-replace fittings.
NOTE : the glass decks are surprisingly thin. The teak provided a great deal of structural strength. It is a good time to reinforce from below. Do not take a short cut and omit the added glass to the deck or try to add glass to a gelcoat layer.