Make/Model Reccomendation For Blue Water Ferro-Cement Boats

[AKCoastie]

I am starting to window shop for the sailboat I plan to buy when I retire. After spending day after day doing research on this and other sites, I am pretty sure I have decided on a ferro-cement hull due to getting "more bang for the buck" and it's durability when you find a well made boat. After pouring through tons of classifieds, I have started leaning towards a Hartley Golden Cowrie. It looks like it could take some real weather and keep on keepin on. I also like the interior layout. Does anyone have any experience with these? Any other recommendations for ferro-cement boat makes/models? Price is a big factor. I am looking at spending between $30,000 and $75,000.

[KIWI]

New Zealand built "Sayers" are the best to come out of NZ In fact I'll go as far as saying , "they are the best of the best" All built at the Sayers factory and all certified, All the Sayers boats I have seen have timber{Ply} decks to keep the center of gravity down low I have raced against a sayers 40' ferro and we were in a 10-20 Farr and there was nothing in it they are fast !!!

When the race had finished I had a close look and it was hard to tell it was ferro the finish was so good, It has made me think twice about ferro

[Boracay]

I built a Hartley RORC 32' too long ago now and I would suggest that it is not really possible to determine if a Ferro boat is blue water capable before purchase.

There is no real history as with some of the "mass" produced fibreglass boats.

The following assumes a reasonable level of experience with boats.

What you can do is go through the steps as already discussed in this forum. My understanding is that the process would work like this ( this really is only looking at the ferro part, the rest needs to be checked by other means)...
1) Generally check the boat, looking for cracks or rust marks.
2) Check that all deck gear/rigging/etc. is through bolted with appropriate backing plates.
3) Check that the boat sits properly to it's waterline.
4) Check that an appropriate impervious coating has been applied to the bilge and the interior of the boat so that bilge water never comes into contact with bare cement. (Tar epoxy on a penetrating epoxy primer comes to mind.) My understanding is that oil (esp. diesel) and sea water will destroy ferro cement.
4) Check that all equipment on board operates "normally".
5) Take the boat for a test sail, preferably in about 15 knots of breeze with gusts to 23 knots. Particularly watch for tenderness or heavy weather helm (insufficient ballast/top heavy).
6) If you still like the boat then look for a surveyor with experience in ferro.

At this point it is probably a go or no go on the purchase.

If you do buy the boat my opinion is that you need to slowly work your way through various operating conditions. I'm not suggesting looking for bad weather, rather that as the boat is used in benign conditions that there will be the occasional outlier that will give a good idea as it's capabilities. I would strongly suggest that buying a boat and immediately doing blue water cruising is not a good idea. (And I don't think that this applies just to ferro boats.)

[AKCoastie]

Originally Posted by Boracay

If you do buy the boat my opinion is that you need to slowly work your way through various operating conditions. I'm not suggesting looking for bad weather, rather that as the boat is used in benign conditions that there will be the occasional outlier that will give a good idea as it's capabilities. I would strongly suggest that buying a boat and immediately doing blue water cruising is not a good idea. (And I don't think that this applies just to ferro boats.)

I hear you. I am not planning on jumping on and just cruising off into the sunset. While I am a CG officer with a fair amount of experience on the water, my wife is not. I wouldn't go far until she gets comfy in some not so great weather closer to shore.

[KIWI]

I agree with "Boracay" regarding getting a survey and the Hartley's are good boats , BUT most are home built and not certified, Here in NZ in the Ferro hay-day you could get your boat certified that is it's checked all the way while building.
The Sayers were professional build in a factory so you will never find a bad Sayers hull and Sayers hold there price because of this.
A ferro hull is easy to check cracks, When it is lifted out of the water and water blasted leave it to dry for a few days, Cracks will show up ,If there is any as the hull is drying as little webs.
Get a ferro that is certified!!!!!