Looking for people familiar with repairing and rigging a cal 20

[cyrano138]

I would say that before you do anything, buy a copy of don casey's sailboat maintenance book. It will address repairing a cored deck and repairing non skid stuff as well.
I guess rich folks can toss a perfectly good boat just because it has soft spots on the deck, but the rest of us would just fix them. Now, if there are soft spots on a cored hull that may be a different story. The thing to look out for on the Cal's (from my research -- not having owned more than one) is the keel. The old bolts can rust and then, like me, you're stuck pulling and replacing them. I had to pull my whole keel.
Another thing to look for is the tracks of the companionway hatch. They crack and leak water into your deck. It happened to me. Do a search for Steve randers cal20 guide. It's an old pamphlet that has a section on problems with this particular boat.

[Adelie]

Rander's guide: Steve Rander’s Cal 20 Guide – Cal20PDX.NET

[academycpt]

Originally Posted by bwhit3

Hello Cyrano138. I am embarking on a Cal20 renovation project with my father-in-law. Not really a restoration as the boat is in pretty decent shape. Any intel you gathered on your own you can share would be much appreciated. Based out of Seattle.

I'm also beginning a Cal20 restoration. Hull #504 built in 1968. I've been guessing at rigging with the help of various owners manuals and she sails. Any info anyone knows/learns and can share will be greatly appreciated. My goal is to restore to perfect condition for a relaxed daysailer in the Chesapeake Bay.
Thanks in advance.

[Adelie]

Hmmmm. I have hull #1312 which is also supposedly from 1968.
I suspect yours is a 1964 or 1965.

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by bwhit3

Another [question] is regarding the integrity of the front deck "how to repair the deck itself if the plywood core has been compromised by moisture penetrating the gel coat. I’ve read articles on how to patch the deck (generic—not necessarily a Cal 20) and I’ve heard people say that’s when you replace the boat. "

I don't know many cases of water going through the gelcoat, it's more likely that core rot starts around mounting holes or through cracks.


Smaller boats are easy to work on. I successfully replaced some rotted bulkheads and saturated flotation foam on our 19' boat. I also repaired some cockpit floor soft spots by drilling holes, letting that wet core area dry for a winter, then injecting runny epoxy into the holes in the spring. So, if you're handy, some deck or cockpit repair will add years of life to your boat.

If you know for sure you have substantial rot on the deck's plywood coring, you have two approaches:

1. carefully cut and remove the top fiberglass skin, saving it for later re-installation
2. cut off the underside skin (carefully or not)

With option #1, you have to take great care when removing the top skin, and you will have to do a reasonable cosmetic job when putting it back, but gravity will be your friend when removing the old core, fitting the new one, and re-attaching the removed skin.

Option 2 preserves the deck surface, and it means that you don't have to be fussy with restoring or replacing the underside fg skin, but all the work will have to be done in the cramped cabin, upside down, usually on your back.

There are a number of books, magazine articles and online resources for doing core replacement. The Don Casey books on fiberglass repair are good.