Ideas for galley countertop redo?

[skwanderer]

I’ve been imagining redoing my galley counter for years with various ideas including a granite/starboard topper, resin over a wood veneer, etc. Currently thinking through a simple pouring over of an enamel paint or other hard shell coating over existing hideous and dated countertop. It’s a huge pita to consider lifting the sink out enough to get a top material underneath the rim, just not worth it. What have others done?

[mabowers]

Following. Weighing the epoxy pour techniques, but not totally convinced yet.

[Tayana42]

A new counter top will really improve the look of your galley. Pulling the sink isn’t really that big a job. Don’t let it scare you. I would give serious thought to a granite overlay. Any kitchen remodeler can custom cut the material for you. Just 1/4” thick and not much weight. No need to demolish the existing countertop. The hoses below the sink and faucet will still fit.

[psk125]

The Formica is probably about 40 years old, so it has actually held up pretty well, considering. Pouring resin or other hard coating will still require removing the sink, faucet, icebox handle, and edgings or it will end up looking like a really schlocky amateur job that you will regret for however long you leave it looking that way. Even if you remove everything, a poured or painted coating will be very difficult to make look good. The paint will get scratches and anything thicker than that will appear uneven. You may just have to bite the bullet on this one. Fix it properly and it may last another 40 years.

[skwanderer]

Originally Posted by Tayana42

A new counter top will really improve the look of your galley. Pulling the sink isn’t really that big a job. Don’t let it scare you. I would give serious thought to a granite overlay. Any kitchen remodeler can custom cut the material for you. Just 1/4” thick and not much weight. No need to demolish the existing countertop. The hoses below the sink and faucet will still fit.

Thanks for your response. And encouragement. I just installed the faucet and I hardly barely fit in the underside to get the fixtures fastened, so going back in that tight space to monkey with the sink fittings is just ugh...

A kitchen remodeler is a great idea, as the cut around for the icebox lid is a challenge to me. I was thinking that if I poured a resin/enamel, I'd just put some thin vertical separator in groove between the sink and the lid, then pour on both. Still pondering...

[Cheechako]

I tiled one and liked it but a huge job due to having to retrim a higher icebox lid etc. But yours does not have trim around those lids. You're gonna have to pull the sink though etc. I wouldn't pour epoxy. Not sure how well it will stick to formica anyway. seems like a 'Band Aid' and it may seem that way to you forever.
I just don't get stone or granite on a boat. Just me I guess.
Another option is real wood veneer maybe 1/4" thick. You could do the job one piece at a time. Teak or something that doesn't water stain like Maple or Oak.
You have to ask yourself if what you have is really that bad...
Your counter looks fine to me from a distance.

[JPA Cate]

Friends of ours had Corian put in. Looks nice and clean. The Admiral is extremely careful to not scratch it, always uses a cutting some kind of polyethelene cutting board to protect it.

Both granite and tile are heavy.

Maybe replace the Formica?, and then, protect it. It looks like the fridge lid got extra wear.

My sympathies, it IS a really hard place to work. There are special faucet wrenches to help you reach up in the trough on the far side of the sink, that will help. Don't chow down on Christmas treats before you have to get back in there, though!

It will help when you've found what you'll like in there. Concentrate on how nice it's going to be, how much you'll enjoy it. Have a party to celebrate. Try to make it as much fun as possible. And use as many "hiker's mints" as needed and is safe.


Ann

[TrentePieds]

skwanderer said: "... I just installed the faucet and I hardly barely fit in the underside to get the fixtures fastened..."

Yes indeed :-) That is a common experience. My way of dealing with "under the counter" plumbing issues is just to take the sink/basin right out of the vanity/counter. Quick and easy. And then you can overhaul/replace both faucet and tailpiece while you are standing comfortably. Supply tubes can also be replaced while you a standing up so only the connection to the shut-offs need to be done while you are kneeling/lying on your back/all bent up like a pretzel. In your case, because your faucet is not mounted via the sink surround, you can even do that job standing up. The new tailpiece connection is never a problem because it's easy to reach while you are kneeling.

There might be a case to be made for taking out the entire counter top and using it as a pattern for a new one made up out of the boat, c/w fiddles, which would then slip right in. Normally the countertop is held to the cabinet frames by simple "screw blocks" and the appropriate length of ROUND-headed woodscrews. These blocks can normally be reached via the drawer/door openings in the front frames.

TrentePieds

[Narfi]

we used Leggari for the floors and counters in our house and were really happy with their products.

https://leggari.com/counters/order-countertops/

Lots of youtube videos and different examples of color combos on their website. You can get pretty crazy with it and different techniques, but it is just as easy to have a beautiful, conservative, and timeless look as well.

[goboatingnow]

Firstly unless the subsurface is absolutely sound with zero moisture, rot or delamination, and top surface renewal will simply fail in short order

A poured surface will be very unsatisfactory , these are typically not self leveling ( epoxy etc ) or are quite brittle like enamel . I think you will be very unhappy with the result

The cheapest solution would be to glue down another laminate layer , preferably a solid colour laminate as these dont show scratches , however my comments about a sound under surface apply here too

The go to solution would be a Corian (acrylic and alumina trihydrate sheet ) or other types ( RichLite) , quartz acrylic combinations etc , this would be a complete replacement of the counter top and all trim

[goboatingnow]

My way of dealing with "under the counter" plumbing issues is just to take the sink/basin right out of the vanity/counter. Quick and easy. And then you can overhaul/replace both faucet and tailpiece while you are standing comfortably. Supply tubes can also be replaced while you a standing up so only the connection to the shut-offs need to be done while you are kneeling/lying on your back/all bent up like a pretzel.

well pity us that have the modern underhung sinks !!1

[JPA Cate]

With reference to Trente Pied's post above:

Brilliant working concept, TP.

I'd like to add that if you re-do the fiddles, make small "crumb holes" in the corners so that they are not collecting grunge, and are easy to wipe out.

Ann

[goboatingnow]

There might be a case to be made for taking out the entire counter top and using it as a pattern for a new one made up out of the boat, c/w fiddles, which would then slip right in

whilst this is a fine idea, many boats cannot be so easily dismantled especially where glued constructed was used in conjunction with "knock down " joiners ( These are what the plastic blocks are called ). Domestic Kitchens for example typically are not glued , but boat galleys often are because of movement and vibration , so actually removal may lead to partial destruction of either the top or the body . The OP may be lucky of course

[skwanderer]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

I tiled one and liked it but a huge job due to having to retrim a higher icebox lid etc. But yours does not have trim around those lids. You're gonna have to pull the sink though etc. I wouldn't pour epoxy. Not sure how well it will stick to formica anyway. seems like a 'Band Aid' and it may seem that way to you forever.
I just don't get stone or granite on a boat. Just me I guess.
Another option is real wood veneer maybe 1/4" thick. You could do the job one piece at a time. Teak or something that doesn't water stain like Maple or Oak.
You have to ask yourself if what you have is really that bad...
Your counter looks fine to me from a distance.

yeah, i guess pulling the sink is the right thing to do.

You make good points about the permanence issues (either not sticking or never leaving).

I'm just getting into fun with epoxy resin. Grew up in the 1970s when it was all the rage, and i can see why now; just finished a deck hatch in redwood and love it. Maybe take that idea of a thin wood/veneer and epoxy, just wonder/worry if it will hold up to scratching and stuff if I do. I know there are plenty of bar tops that are like this. Wondering what's best.

[Kelkara]

If you are going to pour epoxy ... make absolutely sure that the boat is trim, level side to side and fore to aft, or it will all pool at one end.