Hunter 40.5

[dennisail]

I was in San Fran recently. Nice place. I was wondering were your AU home port was, but the fact you don't have one is awesome. We are in Brisbane.

[boatman61]

Nice one mate... I'm sure she'll serve you more than adequately...
Having owned a Hunter...
I'm not one of the 'Knockers'....

[dennisail]

Hey guys is the following quote below a decent price. It seems a little steep?

Hi Nikki and Dennis,

To replace the dodger with window covers would be $1,320.00. To replace the center canvas would be $125.00. To replace the zippers in the Bimini would be $175.00 and if you wanted to replace the Bimini the cost would be $770.00.

The total cost for all new canvas would be $2,215.00.

The cost to do as you asked would be $1,495.00 which is new zippers in the Bimini and a new dodger with new window covers. You would keep the center canvas and the Bimini.

This is with Sunbrella fabric and 40 mil Straglass.

You have Sunbrella fabric on the boat now but it is rubber coated and 100 % water proof. If you wanted to use the same fabric add $150.00 to the pricing.

Let me know what you would like to do?

[dennisail]

I just got off the phone to Dave from Island Planet sails

It looks like I will go down to a 110% genny from 135% with the addition of the furling code zero. The idea is they will compliment each other. In light air the code zero will work both upwind (to a degree) and down. But in heavy air I will be glad to have a smaller headsail which works much better than a partially furled large genny. I will not be running a storm sail so the genny will be my storm sail, so the smaller the better. The bigger a sail, the worse it is when furled.

The cruising code zero will not be as good as an asym on many downwind angles, but the fact it is so convenient to use will mean more speed over all IMO since it will actually be used very often, unlike a normal asym which can be a handfull and would spend most of its time in a bag. I am learning the easier something is to use the more it will be used.

It will have a soft luff rope so it can be raised and lowered and store just like a asym, but it can be left up in the furled position when the boat is actively being used.

My main has 2 reefs but we are looking into a 3rd storm reef if we can find a way to get lines to it. The sail will be made strong enough to handle storm conditions and will be my storm sail when fully reefed.

More on the code zero here.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...o-34473-3.html

[Shred22]

I have a 40.5, the boat is a '92. My Auto Pilot is malfunctions I think it is a problem with the RAM. Can anyone tell me where the RAM is located and how to access?

Thanks and Merry Christmas

[dennisail]

Try this forum SailboatOwners.com

Other news we have had the standing and most of the running rig replaced. Our sails have been ordered and we added a gale sail to our inventory. Only 6 weeks to go until our adventure begins.

[bahamarich]

The Hunter 40.5 is the best boat Hunter ever built. I had a 1994 Hunter 40.5 in the 90's and traveled from the Great Lakes of the US to the Bahamas and compare the quality of the systems to the new Island Packet 350 that we bought in 1999, which sail as far south as Trinadad from the Great Lakes. The design of couse was much different, winged fin keel verses a full keeled cutter rigged boat, but the systems, rigging and all never failed. The aluminum toe rail adds to a great deck to hull thru bolted attachment.

Keep eye on your water tank">fresh water tank strainer before the water pump, there were four tanks built in of fiberglass if I remeber right. Increase the size of your fuel filter system. Consider moving your batteries lower.

We added a third set of reef points with the plan of going forward and reefing manually, but never had to do so. Big wind and close hard chop on the Great Lakes, but the eastern US and Bahamas has more days of light air then real heavy stuff; it may be different where you are sailing. Had two storm sails aboard but never used them, but made the folks at North Sails happy. You do have to reef early w/ +18 knots of wind, but w/ a big sail plan, 63.5 foot spar you would expect that.

For me under sail or at anchor I think it is a handsome craft. Enjoy, rich

[dennisail]

Thanks Rich. We actually reduced the sail area by using a 110% genny instead of 135% (compensated by a removable furling code zero). We will be either adding a 3red reef on our new main or using aggressive reef spacing for the 2 reef system.

[Shred22]

I have a Hunter 40.5 and have to replace the some lines that run under the deck cover plate just forward of the main hatch. Is there a trick to re-running these lines or do I have to take up the deck cover? If so, which bolts have to come out? Is there any reference that shows this detail for removal?

[dennisail]

Shred. I should probably know the answer to that but I dont' I have only sailed the boat once!

Our sails are all sitting an Nikkis cousins house in Orange CA waiting for our arrival in CA. Dave talked us into just getting 2 reefs for the main but with aggressive spacing. Reef 2 is more like a reef 3 and reef 1 is more like 1.5 reefs. But this means we can still reef from the cockpit. Sail is loose footed and does not have full battens the whole way for maximum tuneability.

With the smaller 110% jib (vs stock 130%) and furling code zero we will hopefully be kitted out to sail a wide variety of wind conditions. Note the hunter 40.5 has a huge sailplan standard, 760sq ft with a 110% jib compare to say a Beneteau 393 at 638sq ft when using the 130%?. So I think the smaller jib and large first reef are not really going to hurt performance any where near as much as they will make it easier to handle.

Check out the specs to see how big the rig is on these. I presume the shallow draft and huge sail area is due to its primary market in Florida where there is light wind and shallow water.

http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=4350

http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=5077

Still wish the boat had a deeper keel though.

[savoir]

If nothing else will you promise to get rid of the tender ?

[mrm]

Originally Posted by Shred22

I have a Hunter 40.5 and have to replace the some lines that run under the deck cover plate just forward of the main hatch. Is there a trick to re-running these lines or do I have to take up the deck cover? If so, which bolts have to come out? Is there any reference that shows this detail for removal?

The typical approach, if old ropes are still in place, is to butt-join the ends of old and new rope and pull the new one through, using the old one as a leader.

Synthetic rope materials are mostly (all?) thermoplastics, so joining is accomplished by pressing together two ends heated to a melting point. This is a weak joint, but sufficient for this purpose.

[Ex-Calif]

Originally Posted by mrm

The typical approach, if old ropes are still in place, is to butt-join the ends of old and new rope and pull the new one through, using the old one as a leader.

Synthetic rope materials are mostly (all?) thermoplastics, so joining is accomplished by pressing together two ends heated to a melting point. This is a weak joint, but sufficient for this purpose.

Just be careful with this method. If the rope hangs and the joint breaks you are hosed...

It takes 30 seconds to stitch them end to end, lay a wrap of electrical tape to avoid snagging and that joint won't fail.

Helped guys who tried other methods, electric tape only for example and a few times has ended in tears.

[Surfer Girl]

Dennis,

She's a very nice looking vessel! Sounds like you are really sorting things out for the cruise home. Leaving February gives you plenty of time...

Totally agree with Ex-Calif re joining lines for replacement - removes the risk and gets the job done.

Dennis, make sure you get sticky back sail repair tape. It is great for a quick emergency tear sail repair but also to place over the chafe points - rolling down the trades creates lots of potential chafe for your nice new mainsail.

[dennisail]

Originally Posted by savoir

If nothing else will you promise to get rid of the tender ?

Thanks for the kind words Savoir. I guess you must have missed where I said I would sell the tender in this thread, the actual for sale thread for the tender and the thread about onions on what new tender to buy.