Furlex Type C

[Albro359]

I have a Furlex Type C jib furler on a 16m x 10mm 1x19 headstay.
The thing that holds is all together is part B5, a tube with a thread on the end that screws into the top of a Selden modified Sta-Lok terminal...its broken...snapped off just above the terminal... means the drum moves up the headstay under maximal halyard tension.

People tell me that this part is not available anymore so I will have to replace the whole **..ing system.

1. Is it true that part is not available ?..anyone know where I can get one ?
2. Other options for a replacement furler, (Harken, Profurl, new Furlex) ? ...what are your experiences ?

Cheers

[GordMay]

Contact Selden ➥ Seldén Mast AB

See ➥ http://www.blaumar.com/pdf/FURLEX-C-D-DESPIECE.pdf

[Albro359]

Thanks Gord
I emailed Selden and have no reply from them
I already have the coimplete parts list - just no parts !!

[Ex-Calif]

Originally Posted by Albro359

Thanks Gord
I emailed Selden and have no reply from them
I already have the coimplete parts list - just no parts !!

I had to replace a broken drum (part b17) as the ear broke off. Tip kiddies - don't winch the genny halyard - ever! You do not want sail loads on part b17 and a14! These parts are plastic, although Selden has reinforced these parts from the original design.

I also found getting the used forestay back through parts B30 and B29 was a non-starter and had to order a new forestay part E1. Wish I had known that upfront. Caused a two week delay in the fix.

I ended up buying b17, b30, b29 and e1. I think I bought a couple of other servicing parts and the top drum unit a14 as I wanted the new design plastic up there. I lost a couple of balls during disassembly as I first pulled it apart on the boat (bad idea) and balls scattered all over the foredeck and into the water, but was able to source locally.

The unit is a bit of a rubiks cube but logic and patience will win the day. There are two plastic bits that make up the lower drum and "screw" together and have a locking tang internally. If I recall there is a plug or two to pull to get a small screwdriver in to release the tang. Be patient and don't force this part.

I used a common grease to pack the loose balls in the races. Patience also needed here. Make sure you count the balls in each race - they don't all take the same number of balls. Use the parts list.

Finally - Apparently you can't source from Selden - they didn't respond to me either. Use the "dealer network" tool on their website to locate a dealer. I used Quantum Singapore. Unfortunately I paid a markup. Fortunately he got the parts all the way to Singapore and his loft and I just picked them up.

2 years ago when this happened there was no parts shortage. Not sure if anything has changed. The total bill for me wasn't cheap including the new forestay. I think the far side of $400 including shipping.

[Ex-Calif]

Big PS - if you go the new forestay route. Measure 4 times and cut once. The forestay has a taper built into the end, you run it through the thimble before cutting, the taper is designed to help you get it through.

If you use the old forestay as a cutting template you should allow for the fact the old stay has stretched. How much is a crap shoot. I allowed a small amount but not quite enough - doh... I think after the fact I found some stretch estimater online somewhere...

[Albro359]

Thanks I'll try the dealer network and see if i can find the parts.
Re the new forestay...I thiught I would just cut it off say 75mm from the splayed end, remake the sta-lock termination and add a 75mm toggle under the drum to keep the whole assembly the same length...
Thanks again for all the good information...and I'll try not to lose my balls !

[Albro359]

Thanks ...found the parts..the australian dealer Contender Sailcloth P/L has them all in stock !!

[Ex-Calif]

Originally Posted by Albro359

Thanks ...found the parts..the australian dealer Contender Sailcloth P/L has them all in stock !!

Excellent! Glad it is working out.

Good luck on the forestay plan. How will shortening this and putting a toggle under the drum affect the fit of the genny luff? Is there room enough up top to haul the upper drum high enough to fit?

[Albro359]

Originally Posted by Ex-Calif

Excellent! Glad it is working out.

Good luck on the forestay plan. How will shortening this and putting a toggle under the drum affect the fit of the genny luff? Is there room enough up top to haul the upper drum high enough to fit?

Thanks...should be no problem...there's a strop between the peak of the genoa and the upper swivel, I'll shorten that by the same amount

Cheers

[Ex-Calif]

Originally Posted by Albro359

Thanks...should be no problem...there's a strop between the peak of the genoa and the upper swivel, I'll shorten that by the same amount

Cheers

Great - thle only last thing I would check is you don't significantly change the halyard lead in angle to the upper sheeve. Could create furling issues.

Sorry to keep getting your business but my mind is like that.

Good luck and let us know how it comes out.