Cruisers Forum

  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums. Advertise Here
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 26-12-2009, 16:18   #1
Registered User

Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1
Ferro Boat Reinforcement

I am planning on painting epoxy on my ferro hull below the water line.
I am also thinking about sheathing the underwater area with 2 layers of 600 gm double bias knitted rovings to ensure the thickness of the epoxy and add abrasion resistance to the hull. Perhaps even adding some resistance to point loading? Also perhaps making future repairs easier?

I have drilled test holes to check the armature - 6mm steel rods every 50mm longitudinally and 6mm rods every 100mm diagonally. 4 layers of hex mesh both sides although I did notice that the mesh is occasionally a bit rusty and seems a bit light. The cement is very hard and dark grey and about 22mm thick. The boat is a 35ft Samson of around 10 tons.

Comments please - Is the strength of the ferro so great that the additional strength of the sheathing is likely to be neglible?
Azymuth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26-12-2009, 17:16   #2
Registered User
Simes's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: River Medina, Cowes Isle of Wight, UK
Boat: Gaff Schooner 45' - Talisman of Fambridge
Posts: 141
Images: 1
We run a Ferro Schooner (Talisman of Fambridge) in UK waters. Assuming that you hull has been well laid and plastered you probably do not need to sheath it. Talisman is 32 years of age this year and upon have the hull surveyed this year we were delighted with the general condition of the hull. In the past I have always liked the idea of load sharing for spot loads on the hulls under water areas, I still like the idea now but with a decent ferro hull it is less important.

From a point of absolute safety and security, if I were to run Talisman upon a reef is a few grams of GRP / Epoxy going to make that much difference? If so . . . then have at it.

With Talisman there are many other areas that I need to address first.

Bon Hiver,

Talisman of Fambridge
Simes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 31-01-2010, 20:09   #3
Registered User

Join Date: May 2008
Location: Port Townsend, WA
Boat: 37' Samson, Ferro
Posts: 69
Images: 9
I have a 1977 cement hull, launched '80. The cement is very hard. i am currently hauled out and doing minor touch ups to the hull. The previous owner had a disastrous situation where his anchor chain jumped the roller and the seas caused the chain to saw through the cement at the bow, luckily he caught it before it reached the waterline. If it was FRG the boat would have sunk, but he used mat/glass to make the repair. I discovered it whe I was scraping , grinding, sanding for new paint. I am not impressed at some points where the mat didn't bond well and i was able to scrape it off in sheets, however, in other places the mat adhered to the cement excellently and I can grind at it and it stays put. My conclusion from my findings is that the resin needs to be thick and have excellent adhesion to the substrate or else the mat will absorb the resin and create a weak bond. FOr repairs to my hull I only have to worry about 2 types of material, steel and cement. Adding a couple layers of mat and thick resin adds to the materials that you must consider for repairs. My cement hull is not going to break. All that being said I do think that glassing over a rough cement hull may give it a smoother finish but would be a lot of work. I like to grind my cement deficiencies until any rust stain is gone, open the area a bit so the spots dry and epoxy will fill the void. Sand, fair, paint. You mentioned 'abrasion resistance to the hull'. Your glass mat will likely abrade whereas your cement substrate will not. Now you have a fiberglass repair to make.
Borealis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 31-01-2010, 20:13   #4
Registered User

Join Date: May 2008
Location: Port Townsend, WA
Boat: 37' Samson, Ferro
Posts: 69
Images: 9
Another point I forgot to mention. If there is any moisture in the cement then it must come out someplace and if that is between the cement hull and glass mat layer then now you have a blistering and delaminating problem, just as you would see in glass over plywood.
Borealis is offline   Reply With Quote


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Baltic 38 Mast Reinforcement deluxe68 Monohull Sailboats 3 29-02-2012 18:52
Ferro Boat Insurance in Australia hooked on water Dollars & Cents 49 07-03-2011 13:36
Ferro and Holes El Vagabundo Construction, Maintenance & Refit 8 08-10-2009 06:25
Cutting into a Ferro boat drew.ward Construction, Maintenance & Refit 29 15-05-2008 04:44
Ferro Boat Insurance problem! davovivo Meets & Greets 14 24-01-2008 23:45

Advertise Here

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:59.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Social Knowledge Networks
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

ShowCase vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.