Coax cable for long run up mast

[Algallop]

Found some moderately affordable LMR-400 on Amazon, ends already soldered:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012I5AD2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_vN6CFbZ5W2V1J

I may weatherproof the ends with reversed electrical tape etc. like someone mentioned.
I'm going to take a better measurement tomorrow, I may be able to get away with 40 ft for $60.

While I primarily use the radio for hailing bridges along the ICW, there may be occasions where extended range is helpful. The extra thickness doesn't really bother me, and I'd hate to potentially make a bad situation worse one day because I didn't pay the extra $25 for the 'good cable'. It really is hard to decide what's 'enough' sometimes...

Thanks to everyone for the tips!

-Arthur

[S/V Illusion]

Originally Posted by Algallop

Found some moderately affordable LMR-400 on Amazon, ends already soldered:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012I5AD2O..._vN6CFbZ5W2V1J

I may weatherproof the ends with reversed electrical tape etc. like someone mentioned.
I'm going to take a better measurement tomorrow, I may be able to get away with 40 ft for $60.

While I primarily use the radio for hailing bridges along the ICW, there may be occasions where extended range is helpful. The extra thickness doesn't really bother me, and I'd hate to potentially make a bad situation worse one day because I didn't pay the extra $25 for the 'good cable'. It really is hard to decide what's 'enough' sometimes...

Thanks to everyone for the tips!

-Arthur

Good choice. If it was me, I’d ask them to use soldered PL 259 connectors (which is an option indicated), not the crimp ones as they are more prone to failure in my experience. The crucial aspect of store - bought coax connectors is to ensure they are silver plated and well sealed from moisture.
Anything that could save a like is not something anyone should ‘skimp’ on.

[kmacdonald]

Cable brand matters. Times Microwave and Belkin are good. You may not be able to run the cable with the connectors on. LMR240 or RG 58 is fine. Use the crimp connectors or at least ground jacket crimped and center solder.

[S/V Illusion]

Originally Posted by kmacdonald

Cable brand matters. Times Microwave and Belkin are good. You may not be able to run the cable with the connectors on. LMR240 or RG 58 is fine. Use the crimp connectors or at least ground jacket crimped and center solder.

Belkin coax? I wasn’t aware that Belkin makes coax transmission line. Are you confusing that with Belden?

[kmacdonald]

Originally Posted by S/V Illusion

Belkin coax? I wasn’t aware that Belkin makes coax transmission line. Are you confusing that with Belden?

Yes I am. Belden.

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by Algallop

Found some moderately affordable LMR-400 on Amazon, ends already soldered:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012I5AD2O..._vN6CFbZ5W2V1J

I may weatherproof the ends with reversed electrical tape etc. like someone mentioned.
I'm going to take a better measurement tomorrow, I may be able to get away with 40 ft for $60.

While I primarily use the radio for hailing bridges along the ICW, there may be occasions where extended range is helpful. The extra thickness doesn't really bother me, and I'd hate to potentially make a bad situation worse one day because I didn't pay the extra $25 for the 'good cable'. It really is hard to decide what's 'enough' sometimes...

Thanks to everyone for the tips!

-Arthur

Time out!

This product is not UF - ultraflex. That means that the center wire is copper plated solid (not stranded) aluminum wire, the insulation is foam dielectric and the shield is aluminum. This wire cant be bent as tightly as ultraflex. The foam dielectric will not last as long. Bend it to far and the center conductor will force it's way through the foam and short to the shield.

There is a reason that ultraflex costs twice what standard LMR400 costs.

[CarlF]

If you have to put your own fittings on and are not an expert at soldering, use these Shakespeare fittings. No soldering. Just about fool-proof. They have a great reputation for reliable, low loss, corrosion resistant connections.

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=187266

Also, be sure to put a dielectric grease on the fitting when you screw it onto the antenna

[smac999]

Nobody uses rg58 anymore. If you want a smaller cable rg8x would be minimum size.

[LouK]

Just replaced my 20+ something yr old RG-58 with RG-213. Its slightly larger in diameter but worked ok. A note about soldering on the connectors. In my youth I built a bunch of radio equipment so I’m familiar with soldering. Like previously noted, buying a crimper for one use seemed silly so I went with solder-on connectors. Complete PIA if you don’t have a large iron.

I wasted two connectors trying to get things soldered correctly until I found several videos on the tube which showed a method to peel back the braid w/o soldering it to the barrel. Soldering the center strand is pretty easy, but I could not get a good weld between the shielding and the connector.

Personally I don’t use my VHF all that much but figure that if I really need it, I’m probably in trouble and don’t want to find myself feeling stupid that I got cheap on either cable or antenna. Popular Sailor has good reviews on antennas & Defender had the best prices.

[barnakiel]

You want the finger thick cable, not the spaghetti thick one. Let me google the type, one moment please.


RG213.


Cheers,
b.

[rocco lombardi]

RG8X cable, Centerpin solderless PL259 connectors. Done>

[AlanR]

I am a Radio Amateur, and we use a figure called an "S Unit" to describe received signal readability. An increase of one S unit is just discernable. It will take an increse in the signal power of 6 dB to produce 1 S Unit.

I would not be worried about a loss of 1.5 dB in the aerial feeder, as that difference is imperceptable to the listener. The difference between a just-readable signal and a really loud and clear one is 9 S Units (S1 to S9), 54 dB, and sometimes I receive signals 20 dB over S9.

If your 5 Watts of audio output increased by 54 dB ( To about 30 KW, But there is no possibility of your reveiver doing that), it would kill you. Your receiver has an automatic gain control, and the more powerful the received signal, the more the gain is reduced, so that it ia always comfortable to listen to.

I say again, do not worry about losing 1.5 dB.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by AlanR

I am a Radio Amateur, and we use a figure called an "S Unit" to describe received signal readability. An increase of one S unit is just discernable. It will take an increse in the signal power of 6 dB to produce 1 S Unit.

I would not be worried about a loss of 1.5 dB in the aerial feeder, as that difference is imperceptable to the listener. The difference between a just-readable signal and a really loud and clear one is 9 S Units (S1 to S9), 54 dB, and sometimes I receive signals 20 dB over S9.

If your 5 Watts of audio output increased by 54 dB ( To about 30 KW, But there is no possibility of your reveiver doing that), it would kill you. Your receiver has an automatic gain control, and the more powerful the received signal, the more the gain is reduced, so that it ia always comfortable to listen to.

I say again, do not worry about losing 1.5 dB.

I am also a radio amateur (extra class), and this post contains the truth of the matter.

[S/V Illusion]

Originally Posted by AlanR

I am a Radio Amateur, and we use a figure called an "S Unit" to describe received signal readability. An increase of one S unit is just discernable. It will take an increse in the signal power of 6 dB to produce 1 S Unit.

I would not be worried about a loss of 1.5 dB in the aerial feeder, as that difference is imperceptable to the listener. The difference between a just-readable signal and a really loud and clear one is 9 S Units (S1 to S9), 54 dB, and sometimes I receive signals 20 dB over S9.

If your 5 Watts of audio output increased by 54 dB ( To about 30 KW, But there is no possibility of your reveiver doing that), it would kill you. Your receiver has an automatic gain control, and the more powerful the received signal, the more the gain is reduced, so that it ia always comfortable to listen to.

I say again, do not worry about losing 1.5 dB.

You must be a new ham. Time to ‘hit the books’.

We’re not talking about audio level. We are discussing a power function which is entirely different. While you cannot hear a 1.5dB audio difference, a 1.5dB signal loss is equivalent to a 20% reduction in power output at the antenna and can be the difference in being intelligeable above the noise floor.

Parenthetically, marine VHF radio’s don’t have an AGC circuit or control.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by S/V Illusion

.........

Parenthetically, marine VHF radio’s don’t have an AGC circuit or control.

I would be very very interested to know which marine VHF radio doesn't have an AGC circuit as I haven't seen one (yet).