I've got a 1964 Cheoy lee Rhodes Reliant.
Few things I've learned:
Pay attention to the teak
decks- if it was built on a good day, the fasteners didn't penetrate to the core
material and it's good and dry in there. Others not so lucky. Sounds like this is no longer a problem for you.
Cheoy lee or someone nearby made a lot of their stainless, it hasn't aged super gracefully. The bronze parts
are typical still perfect assuming no electrolysis
issues. Keep a good inspection
routine until you phase out the old stainless.
The Reliant was built with a lot of woven roving with a layup
schedule defined by Phil Rhodes. When they didn't want to pay his royalties anymore, they mirrored the deck
plan, doctored up the mold
superficially in the bow, and called it the Offshore
40. Some minor corners cut, like a hollow tube rudder
shaft instead of solid, but what I find interesting is they started laying up according to Lloyd's specifications, which at the time shied away from woven roving for some reason. These boats over time have suffered from blisters
whereas the Reliants have not. Is it because of a resin formulation change, or are boats that are made solely out of chopped strand more prone to blistering? Either way, they seem to have started messing something up. I'd keep my eye out for that and inquire about any barrier coat the previous owner may have introduced, with specifics about what it is and how it was applied. Possibly include price
of a proper barrier coat application (not cheap
, not easy, but straightforward) in negotiation.
Finally, they liked to do a lot of deck fastening using /machine screws/ into fiberglass
. Not through bolted mind you, just threads cut into the glass. It's interesting, but I'm not sure how strong that is.