Cape Dory 27 for Transatlantic crossing

[Renis]

Looking for boat capable to make Transatlantic crossing. My priorities are:
1) should be between 27 and 30 feet
2)cost under $ 25000
I have read about Tritons, Albergs ,Contessas and Cape Dorys 28 doing Transatlantic crossings and even around the globe circumnavigations. Tritons are good size boats, but they all are very old. Contessa is too small. So what about Cape Dory 27? Anybody has any ideas? Is it less safe than , for example, Cape Dory 28, or Pearson Triton?

[gonesail]

the older full keel cape dory 27 would need to have new standing rigging and have the chain plates checked as these can cause problems. but i have seen these boats sailing in 30 knot winds and handling it nicely. the 28 might also be a good choice if you can afford it.

[Arch Stanton]

I've read a lot of good stuff about the Albin Vega 27 (though I have no first-hand experience). John Vigor also talks it up in his book "20 small sailboats that will take you anywhere", which you might want to check out.

You can get a nice one for about 20K. There's a few good-looking ones on Yachtworld right now.

[Curmudgeon]

John Vigor also talks up the Cape Dory 25D.

[Tim Mertinooke]

Originally Posted by Curmudgeon

John Vigor also talks up the Cape Dory 25D.

He also owns a CD27.

[CTSailor]

Witth the current economy you can most likely get a Cape Dory 30 in decent shape for $25K (I did last summer.) A lot more space than the 27. Both are definitely very capable boats. Just be careful to look for the typical problems in boats of this age.

[cburger]

I have sailed and worked on the Cape Dory 27. Typically a well constructed vessel. Nice deep full keel, nice sailing, pretty classic vessel. Many of Carl Alberg's designs have crossed oceans as well as completed circumnavigations. If you want to cross the Atlantic in a twenty seven Dory there are several areas that I would want to modify to make the boat safe. The main companionway hatch as supplied is a weak piece of fiberglass and would not be up to the task of handling a breaking wave. It would be a good idea to have a nice heavy wooden sea hood "Turtle" fabricated. The large cockpit will present a big problem should the boat get pooped. The size of the cockpit drains should be increased and the lazzarette's should be made watertight so the engine space can not be flooded in the event of a boarding wave.

[cburger]

P.S My friend purchased his beautiful fully found 27 Dory for $10,000.

[Triton318]

Originally Posted by gonesail

the older full keel cape dory 27 would need to have new standing rigging

Why? Because you believe the original standing rigging was undersized for offshore work? Or because it's too old? Or some other reason? It would be helpful if you explained the reason(s) for your opinion. Thanks.

[Casco Bay]

Welcome to the Cape Dory Sailboat Owners Association's Home Page

I posted this website on the Cape Dory thread I started. There is a forum on this site for Cape Dory boats.

[mrohr]

try the contessa 32 ,really only a 28-30 foot boat on the inside but should out perform the others ,in ocean conditions and will have big er resale value in europe.also a fine short handed craft that has a n exellent pedigee.google this boat do your home work and you will see why they are held in such high regard.

[rtbates]

Originally Posted by Tim Mertinooke

He also owns a CD27.

Proir to the 27 he owned a 25D. A fellow 25D owner, Odie Lingle, sailed his 25D across the pond last year to Ireland..And one did the Pacific...

Given the lack of specific condition related issues any Cape Dory can sail across the Atlantic. Even a few 19' Typhoons have made the crossing. For the most part the boat can take more abuse than the skipper..

[killyourguitar]

I know this is an older thread, I'm trying to find information on loading a cape Dory 27 for a transatlantic. I'm wondering how much weight I can load in the boat. I have Essentials like a life raft, a dinghy with outboard, electronics, solar panel setup with batteries, sailing equipment, anchors, chain and rode, lines, parts, extra sails, tools, personal effects and Provisions and feel like the boat is a little unstable and I haven't even mounted the radome yet. My best guess is I have about 1800 lb loaded already including water and extra fuel. I'm at the top of the waterline which I'm not sure is original from the factory.

[Don C L]

Originally Posted by killyourguitar

I know this is an older thread, I'm trying to find information on loading a cape Dory 27 for a transatlantic. I'm wondering how much weight I can load in the boat. I have Essentials like a life raft, a dinghy with outboard, electronics, solar panel setup with batteries, sailing equipment, anchors, chain and rode, lines, parts, extra sails, tools, personal effects and Provisions and feel like the boat is a little unstable and I haven't even mounted the radome yet. My best guess is I have about 1800 lb loaded already including water and extra fuel. I'm at the top of the waterline which I'm not sure is original from the factory.

I have a boat much like the CD27, though a little larger. I don't know exactly how much weight you could add but sounds to me like you are trying to pack too much into and onto her. I don't think the CD27 has much reserve storage ability to handle that much; it's already pretty heavily ballasted. And how much of the weight will be above the waterline? Clearly the boat is floating and if she is at the top of the waterline all the way around that is not excessive in most cases. But, if it were me, I'd think in terms of what items can I ship ahead to meet me wherever I was headed (like the dinghy and engine,) and those that I cannot ship, which ones can I live without. Were you thinking of putting the extra water and fuel in jugs on the deck? Many larger cruising boats do that, but I think yours is a little on the small side to do that. If you could stow all your chain in the bilge and then put 1000 or more of those pounds on the cabin sole that would be better, but then you can't move around inside too well. Once you are on the other side you'll be coastal cruising I presume and you'll be able to pick your weather more easily and you can get away with packing more stuff in. But on the crossing you won't really have that luxury; you may get some rough weather you can't avoid, so best to have the boat as lightly and deeply and securely loaded as possible IMO.
Now, that said, I have a good friend who is a rigger who claims that just about any weight in the boat is good for stabilizing it, even if it is above the waterline. On this one issue I disagree with him. All my extra weight goes below the waterline on my little boat.
BTW will you be singlehanding? Do you have a self-steering vane too?

[killyourguitar]

Thank you for your reply and some good food for thought. Yes I am single handing and have an Aires wind vane.

Originally Posted by Don C L

I have a boat much like the CD27, though a little larger. I don't know exactly how much weight you could add but sounds to me like you are trying to pack too much into and onto her. I don't think the CD27 has much reserve storage ability to handle that much; it's already pretty heavily ballasted. And how much of the weight will be above the waterline? Clearly the boat is floating and if she is at the top of the waterline all the way around that is not excessive in most cases. But, if it were me, I'd think in terms of what items can I ship ahead to meet me wherever I was headed (like the dinghy and engine,) and those that I cannot ship, which ones can I live without. Were you thinking of putting the extra water and fuel in jugs on the deck? Many larger cruising boats do that, but I think yours is a little on the small side to do that. If you could stow all your chain in the bilge and then put 1000 or more of those pounds on the cabin sole that would be better, but then you can't move around inside too well. Once you are on the other side you'll be coastal cruising I presume and you'll be able to pick your weather more easily and you can get away with packing more stuff in. But on the crossing you won't really have that luxury; you may get some rough weather you can't avoid, so best to have the boat as lightly and deeply and securely loaded as possible IMO.
Now, that said, I have a good friend who is a rigger who claims that just about any weight in the boat is good for stabilizing it, even if it is above the waterline. On this one issue I disagree with him. All my extra weight goes below the waterline on my little boat.
BTW will you be singlehanding? Do you have a self-steering vane too?