bolt-rope to sail-lug conversion?

[San Juan Bob]

New owner oa a great San Juan 21. Would like to find a sail lug which grips the bolt rope on one end and has a lug to go in the mast on the other. I thought I saw a photo of a boat with this. Would make temporarly dropping the sail much simpler. Any ideas?

[sluissa]

My sail has this conversion. The lugs are simply sewn onto the sail. It uses a ton of loops but it works well though, it think.

The boats are the same size, I'd assume the stresses involved would be roughly the same, so I'd guess it'd work for you too.

[San Juan Bob]

Thanks for the reply. Questions: Did you do the conversion yourself?
Make or model of the slugs?
Distributor?

[Steve Rust]

Another way is to use 1/2, 3/4, or 1 inch nylon webbing depending on the slug. Cut it into short strips maybe 3 or 4 inches. Put it through the loop on the slug and sew it tight to the slug. Now you have two equal flaps, one for each side of the sail. Sew these together through the sail. Get the slugs from a local sailmaker or go to West Marine if you have to. They do come in different sizes so check your mast slot. Get the size that is not to tight or to loose, but just right. I need to do this to my daysailer. I am tired of the sail coming down in a big pile in the cockpit.

[cooper]

You can buy slugs that match your bolt rope size. These slugs can be either stiched on (by hand) or you can buy plastic fasteners that act as a go between , from your sail to the slug. Often the gap between the mast track and boom on a bolt rope set up is quite large (for the ease of bending on a sail). The bolt rope stops the sail from falling off altogether when lowered.
Unfortunately this means that when you change to slugs the whole lot can drop out unless you put a mast track gate in.

cheers

[sluissa]

I didn't do the conversion myself. And cooper is right, you need a mast track gate. Just a little stopper to keep the slugs from falling out unless you want to actually take the sail all the way off.

My slugs are nylon, and other than a little bit of silicone lube every couple of months. (spray can, just spray a little on each slug as you raise the sail.) It's quite easy to deal with.

I did have one slug come off, but I've yet to replace it. It's noticable that one is missing near the top, but everything works well enough without it.

[Steve Rust]

There should be no mast track but a slot in the mast to take the bolt rope. Depending on the mast shape you may be able to use a Ball-Lok quick release pin for a stop. It is a locking clevis pin with a quick release button. Drill a hole through both sides of the slot at the right place and you are all set. I drill a small hole through the hood around the button and using a small wire attach it to the mast so I never have to look for it. This has worked for 23 years on my 22 foot Sirius. The mast shape on the Sirius and the daysailer are somewhat teardrop shaped so this works. It may not work with some mast shapes.

[San Juan Bob]

Thanks all, many good suggestions to think about. Question: What spacing would anyone recommend?

[Steve Rust]

I would say about every 16-18 inches. Use two maybe 6 inches apart at the headboard.

[cooper]

As above but if you can , I would suggest doubling up at the foot and at the reefing cringles. I only say this because if when you reef the mast end of your reefing lines slackens (or was not pulled down tight enough in the first place) the out haul pressure will come to bear on the slugs. It may save a sail tear.

cheers

[Steve Rust]

Good advice cooper
I would also add that if you have a solid headboard, plastic or aluminum, you could use the nylon webbing to attach these two reguardless of how you do the others. They can be attached with two rivets. Use something hot to make holes in the webbing and to fuse the nylon around the hole.