Anchoring Advice?

[Rakuflames]

Originally Posted by Muscongus

I just got back from my first cruise and was pretty concerned about the anchorage on it.

It was my first time anchoring with the intention of sleeping. It worked out fine, but, the little cove had ledges poking up all around. It was an anchorage marked on the charts (Kimball Ilsand near Isle Au Haute in Penobscot Bay, ME).

We were rocked a bit in the middle of the night (tide change?) and that added to the uncertainty of the anchoring.

I used a danforth anchor at the bow and gave it some slack for the tide. It didn't seem to bite in very good, but, we held position for a few hours before turning in for the night.

My boat is a '69 Bristol 24 that displaces about 6000# plus people and gear.

Any advice on anchoring would be really appreciated.

Thanks,

Dan

Musc, my chartplotter has an anchor drag alarm. However, it is so quiet that there are times you wouldn't hear it from five feet away.

My solution is my handheld back up, which also has an anchor drag alarm. I put that near my pillow. It's never gone off while I was asleep, but it has gone off when I moved the boat but forgot to turn it off, so I know it works.

[Rakuflames]

Originally Posted by rebel heart

Something else to consider is that you'll really get to know certain anchorages and will be able to get the "sweet spots". For new coves, error on the side of deeper and far enough away from rocks that you can dump out a ton of scope. If you'll be there for a few days or plan on coming back, dinghy around a bit and check things out.

Some of the best anchorages around here are really tucked between rocks that look down right intimidating and there's no way someone unfamiliar with the area would know how to work with it. For anchorages I don't know about other than guide books and charts (sometimes just charts), I take my half out of the middle and dump scope.

You might not want to do this in Maine, but in more hospitable waters you can dive the anchor after you feel it's set and actually look at it.

[ranger58sb]

Only adding to what several have said:
-pay attention to all that about matching anchor type to holding ground
-plus all that about matching rode type and length to current and predicted depths
-include distance from waterline to anchor roller when calculating required scope
-if you can't hear your anchor alarm, another solution is a baby monitor
-SET THE ANCHOR. Depending on how much horsepower you have, use that to be sure you won't drag (at least in the direction you're setting it). If you've only got small horsepower, use all of it (I tend to not have to use all 900 hp) well before you're thinking about turning in. Gradually set the anchor, bump on it several times until you're probably satisfied, then (assuming small horsepower) use everything you've got. If you drag, you weren't set.

-Chris

[tartansail]

Congratulations on a successful first cruise and a great boat! We have sailed and anchored in Maine from Casco Bay to Frenchman's Bay on our former boats (Bristol 27 and Tartan 34) using only Danforths with relatively short lengths of chain and nylon rode with plenty of scope. That included riding out a couple of near miss tropical storms the year that three came up the New England Coast in rapid succession. We never dragged, but always used plenty of scope and used the charts to avoid anchorages with rocky or weed bottoms. We did buy a Manson Supreme for our current boat and love it, but you have lots of ways to drop way more bucks than you spent on the boat on upgrades and modifications. Before putting a new generation anchor at the top of the list, work on your anchoring technique, consider some additional chain and learn to love your new boat and spectacular cruising grounds. If you have a smart phone or handheld GPS, an anchor alarm next to your pillow will add to your comfort.

[Stu Jackson]

Anchoring 101 Anchors & TEST Results of New Generation Anchors EXCELLENT & Important

Anchor System Sizing Tables (Reply #6) Ground Tackle & Anchor System Sizing TABLES & SwivelsGround Tackle & Anchor System Sizing TABLES & Swivels

The first discusses types of anchors and how to anchor.

The second helps you size your anchoring SYSTEM.

Whenever someone says "But anchors and chain and rode cost a lot!", I reply: "What's your entire boat worth to you?"

The West Marine online Advisors have some good stuff: The West Advisor: West Advisor Articles

Sleep well, my friends.

[Ziggy]

Originally Posted by tartansail

Congratulations on a successful first cruise and a great boat! We have sailed and anchored in Maine from Casco Bay to Frenchman's Bay on our former boats (Bristol 27 and Tartan 34) using only Danforths with relatively short lengths of chain and nylon rode with plenty of scope. That included riding out a couple of near miss tropical storms the year that three came up the New England Coast in rapid succession. We never dragged, but always used plenty of scope and used the charts to avoid anchorages with rocky or weed bottoms. We did buy a Manson Supreme for our current boat and love it, but you have lots of ways to drop way more bucks than you spent on the boat on upgrades and modifications. Before putting a new generation anchor at the top of the list, work on your anchoring technique, consider some additional chain and learn to love your new boat and spectacular cruising grounds. If you have a smart phone or handheld GPS, an anchor alarm next to your pillow will add to your comfort.

This is very good advice. A few additional suggestions:

1. A Danforth can work very well in most places from Casco Bay to Mt Desert. But make sure it is large enough. A 20lb Danforth Hi-tensile should be large enough for your Bristol.
2. 60 feet of anchor line is not sufficient. Consider that if you anchor in a 10 ft spot at low tide, the depth at high tide will be 20 feet. Add 2 feet for the height of your deck above the water line, and you'll see that for 5:1 scope you'll need 110 feet of rode. Most places are deeper than 10 feet. I would recommend at least 20 feet of chain and 200' of anchor line. Resist the advice to get a lot more chain. It is usually offered by folks with 40' boats with anchor windlasses and it is not practical on a 24' boat.
3. A second anchor (of a different type) is a good idea if you have enough room to store it.
4. I'm not sure where you anchored at Kimball Island. If you mean the Thorofare between Kimball I. and Isle au Haut, my recollection is that it is too crowded with moorings to anchor with enough scope. There are a couple of rental moorings there (leave the fee in a jar tied to the mooring).
5. Get a copy of Rindlaub's Cruising Guide to the Maine Coast--it's full of good general advice and detailed information on anchorages.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by monte

yes mate, dropping the anchor and then letting out a few feet sounds like the anchor is pretty much vertically below the boat. You are lucky you didn't drag it
I dunno who told you how to do it like that..maybe a charter company !
You really need to have out enough chain and rhode for at least 5:1. i.e. if you drop the anchor in 10' of water and the anchor roller is 4' above the water, (10+4) x 5 = 70'
Heres a pretty good guide with pictures
Fortress Anchors - Safe Anchoring Guide

Yep, that's your biggest problem really. On your daysailor with occasional overnighters, you really dont have to have "full cruising" anchoring setup. 50 feet of chain is not necessary, and a lot harder on the back! However, I think most would recommend you should have 20 feet or so. Get a starting sailing book. Most of this info is in there.

[Chrisgo]

Just so I can confirm my thoughts on the role of the chain...

It's weight helps to lower the angle of pull on the anchor, (less steep).
And it the weight also serves as a shock absorber to wind and waves, as it most likely has some slack in it unless the wind is really piping, or in the OP's case, is only 4' feet long.

Have I got that right?

[smaarch]

others here have more experience than I.
here is one way to see it:
In addition to scope the idea of 20' or so of chain sounds correct on a 24' boat. I've learned when anchoring to pay attention to other boats and how and where they are anchored. In normal conditions a well anchored boat makes a gentle catenary arc of its anchor line: not a vertical or nearly vertical straight to the bottom. Think of it this way: a simple mathematical problem of X/Y vectors. You want more horizontal pull on the anchor. less vertical.
not sure if it was mentioned an anchor watch is SOP. When the boats motion changes, i'm on deck to check on things.
Usually when i'm anchored out I'll leave all the halyards at the mast. When the wind pipes up in the middle of the night and i hear clanking against the mast... a sort of automatic alarm system...its also time to check.

I've also noticed if there is vibration in the anchor line, it is likely not properly set and dragging. noticed this after anchoring and ashore at a party... i kept thinking the boat was moving.... indeed it was. (clarification: this was in a mud bottom, no experience with rock)

[Stu Jackson]

It is really nice that all these skippers are providing you with all this information.

WADR, in addition to the links I provided for you, you might want to consider either buying or going to a library, and reading a book. There are entire 200 page books written about anchoring!!! But something as inexpensive as "Sailing For Dummies" had a whole chapter on the subject. And it's well written. And, most likely, available used for a few bucks.

Good luck.

[Muscongus]

Wow! There's a ton of input here and all of it valuable stuff.

I inquired about a couple CQR anchors I saw online - waiting to hear back.

I am definately going to get another anchor and add to both the chain and the rode. I will keep the danforth and use it as a back up / stern anchor. Should be pretty simple to hang it on the stern rail.

That little anchoring spot on Kimball is NOT the thoroughfare between Isle Au Haute & Kimball, but, is a small cove on the opposite side of Kimball from the mooring field. It is really small and is a one boat kind of place. I think it would be a good spot for an anchor on the stern, too from what I've read here.

I'm going to start another thread about adding a solar panel to the B24, so, if any of you have advice on a good place to mount it, please pipe in on that thread.

I think I'll be able to get out a couple more times before hauling her out and I'll practice some of these techniques. As you know, practicw makes perfect.

Thanks again, everyone.

Dan

[cfarrar]

Dan, one more anchoring tip that you might not find in a book. Basically, you'll find that the shore / rocks always look closer than they really are. So go ahead and plot where you drop and set the anchor, and ensure you have sufficient swing room for the scope you've deployed, using your chart or GPS. Then, if the shore or rocks still look a little too close, take your dinghy for a row. You'll probably be surprised how small and far away your B24 looks when viewed from the nearby rock ledges or the shore. This will reassure you that your calculations were sound, and you'll sleep better.

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by cfarrar

Dan, one more anchoring tip that you might not find in a book. Basically, you'll find that the shore / rocks always look closer than they really are. So go ahead and plot where you drop and set the anchor, and ensure you have sufficient swing room for the scope you've deployed, using your chart or GPS. Then, if the shore or rocks still look a little too close, take your dinghy for a row. You'll probably be surprised how small and far away your B24 looks when viewed from the nearby rock ledges or the shore. This will reassure you that your calculations were sound, and you'll sleep better.

This is a very astute comment! Despite having lived primarily at anchor for the past 25+ years, I still get fooled by this phenomenon. It is especially true with other boats anchored nearby, and, I believe, leads to many of the confrontations between folks "anchored too close".

The advice to observe from the dinghy before taking action is good -- really alters your perspective.

Cheers,

Jim

[Teeto]

We use a little laser distance gadget that tells us how far away the other boats are and the shore. It always surprises us how far away they are! Helps to reassure nervous neighbours too if you can tell them you are 100+ metres apart.

[smaarch]

Dan, sail on.
it looks like i've been hacked
cqr is a good choice with some chain