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17-12-2018, 16:34
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#121
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Med.
Boat: Amel 50
Posts: 1,016
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Re: Amel 50 - Build Thread
On the Super Maramu, Amel uses the circled winch for mainsheet traveler. The picture is of the Amel 50.
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17-12-2018, 18:31
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#122
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cruiser
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Pangaea
Posts: 10,856
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Re: Amel 50 - Build Thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by boom23
I sent an email to Amel regarding the dinghy and passarelle. In the meanwhile, I've been going over the pictures to do some analysis.
Dinghy all the way up on the davits, outboard removed:
From the pictures below, I can see that the davit and dinghy are too low to walk under (under waist level), unless one crawls. The passarelle can be installed in the middle or the outside of the davit. With the dinghy on the davit, one of the outside locations is better, depending on which side the dinghy extends further. Without the outboard installed, the bow extends further (CL310 - 2.8 ft, CL340 - 3.5 ft). Without the outboard, the stern extends about 1.6 feet on both models. That is probably about 1 ft past the davit edge and according to the picture, about 6 inches over the passarelle area. Unfortunately, I did not take a picture from straight back.
So, without the outboard installed, there is a possibility that one can use the passarelle, on the stern side of the dinghy, with the dinghy all the way up. This is assuming that the passarelle is long enough to to extend about 2.5 ft (half the dinghy beam) past the davits & dinghy. There is an outboard stand in the lazarette. But, I do not plan to remove the outboard every time, except for multi-day crossings. So, this option is less likely to happen.
Here are the dinghy dimensions:
Highfield CL-310 Dimensions
Highfield CL-340 Dimensions
Both dinghies have the same beam. According to the dinghy specs (which are not to be trusted), the CL-340 is about 1 foot longer at the bow. Few weeks ago, I went to a Highfield dealer and the distance from the stern to the CL-340 bow locker was about 6 inches longer than the CL-310. The factory specs show the CL-310 being longer... I will have to pay another visit to the Highfield dealer to measure again and see how each dinghy feels.
Dinghy lowered past the boat deck:
The dinghy hangs from where the stainless circles (pulley axle bolt covers) are at the side of the davit, near the end. It seems that if I lower the dinghy just below the boat deck level, I should be able to pull it close to the boat hull so that it does not extend (much) past the davits. I cannot find the passarelle length, but I have to assume it extends past than the davits...
So, one should be able to lower the dinghy, even with the outboard installed, to the boat deck level, pull it close to the boat stern, and have the passarelle over the dinghy bow. Most likely, this is what I will be doing.

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There’s no way you’re going to wanna take a 20hp outboard on and off your dinghy all he time. You’ll want to attach it an leave it alone all season, and only take it off for ocean crossings. Ours is bolted on and never comes off.
Don’t forget that you can always lower the dinghy a few feet and walk over the top using the passerelle if you don’t have solar panels in the way. Another option, but not preferable, is to exit on a bow mounted passerelle. Usually very steep and more difficult to med moor.
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17-12-2018, 19:33
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#123
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Med.
Boat: Amel 50
Posts: 1,016
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Re: Amel 50 - Build Thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenomac
There’s no way you’re going to wanna take a 20hp outboard on and off your dinghy all he time. You’ll want to attach it an leave it alone all season, and only take it off for ocean crossings. Ours is bolted on and never comes off.
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That was my original plan, and still is, as I like to keep things simple.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenomac
Don’t forget that you can always lower the dinghy a few feet and walk over the top using the passerelle if you don’t have solar panels in the way. Another option, but not preferable, is to exit on a bow mounted passerelle. Usually very steep and more difficult to med moor.
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My analysis above came to the same conclusion, to lower the dinghy. Leaving the dinghy fully raised, with the outboard on, makes the passarelle impossible to use. I have not even thought about a bow mounted passarelle. It would take some fabrication to attach the passarelle to the bow pulpit. I am not planning to tackle this any time soon, unless I need to.
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17-12-2018, 19:44
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#124
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Seattle, WA
Boat: Island Packet 349
Posts: 671
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Re: Amel 50 - Build Thread
Is there a room on the deck aft of the cockpit to install chokes and secure the dinghy to the deck?
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17-12-2018, 19:48
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#125
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Boat: CT-38 Princess - Fast Cruiser ( Alen Warrick )
Posts: 11
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Re: Amel 50 - Build Thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by boom23
That is a good question... From the pictures, it does not look like it is controlled from the cockpit. I can see stops on the traveler track and what looks like a cam cleat on each end.
When I test sailed I was so overwhelmed with so many questions that I did not notice.
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It may not be a big issue yet, when short handed, makes it a bit of a fuss to run aft to move it. One more question if you do not mind. I was sent the info regarding options yet, it and the brochure lack any information on the battery bank.
Mahalo,
Mike.
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17-12-2018, 21:38
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#126
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Marseille
Boat: SM2K 2005
Posts: 4
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Re: Amel 50 - Build Thread
Hi boom23
Thank you so much for sharing !
I am myself after an Amel but I will have to go for a used one!!! I’m thinking a late SM2000 from 2003 or 2004
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17-12-2018, 22:53
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#127
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Med.
Boat: Amel 50
Posts: 1,016
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Re: Amel 50 - Build Thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Horizons
Is there a room on the deck aft of the cockpit to install chokes and secure the dinghy to the deck?
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I am not sure. I do not see me doing this, but it is a mental exercise so, lets figure it out...
The dinghy is 5'8" wide, with the tubes inflated. With the tubes deflated, since the internal width is 2'7", I am guessing the overall dinghy width can be under 5'.
I extrapolated the aft deck (between winches and mainsheet) length from the picture below. It about 5'.4". So, it seems that it is possible to have the dinghy, with deflated tubes on the rear deck. You do lose the use of the two storage areas on the sides of the deck.
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17-12-2018, 22:59
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#128
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Med.
Boat: Amel 50
Posts: 1,016
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Re: Amel 50 - Build Thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by Laixoi
Hi boom23
Thank you so much for sharing !
I am myself after an Amel but I will have to go for a used one!!! I’m thinking a late SM2000 from 2003 or 2004
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Congratulations! We met many Amel owners in the S. Pacific. After talking to them and seeing how the factory still supports them, you cannot go wrong. There was a SM in New Caledonia, which looked amazing and really tempted me. I later found out that it is (or was) for sale.
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17-12-2018, 23:19
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#129
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Seattle, WA
Boat: Island Packet 349
Posts: 671
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Re: Amel 50 - Build Thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by boom23
I am not sure. I do not see me doing this, but it is a mental exercise so, lets figure it out...
The dinghy is 5'8" wide, with the tubes inflated. With the tubes deflated, since the internal width is 2'7", I am guessing the overall dinghy width can be under 5'.
I extrapolated the aft deck (between winches and mainsheet) length from the picture below. It about 5'.4". So, it seems that it is possible to have the dinghy, with deflated tubes on the rear deck. You do lose the use of the two storage areas on the sides of the deck.

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I did not realize the traveller was all the way back. Makes it a bit tight. Never mind.
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17-12-2018, 23:21
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#130
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Med.
Boat: Amel 50
Posts: 1,016
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Re: Amel 50 - Build Thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingtaiyo
One more question if you do not mind. I was sent the info regarding options yet, it and the brochure lack any information on the battery bank.
Mahalo,
Mike.
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Hi Mike,
The Amel 50 comes with 400Ah 24V MasterVolt Gel Batteries. The Generator option, includes extra 200Ah batteries. So, I will be having 600Ah @ 24V.
The house bank is charged by a MasterVolt 110A 24V alternator with external MasterVolt regulator. The starting battery is charged by the standard Volvo alternator. Both have serpentine belts.
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18-12-2018, 06:53
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#131
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 44
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Re: Amel 50 - Build Thread
My father in law swears by them, he took his amel across the Atlantic and back
I'm looking at a second hand in the med
Good luck great blog
V jealous
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18-12-2018, 08:03
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#132
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Med.
Boat: Amel 50
Posts: 1,016
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Re: Amel 50 - Build Thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by 369thegoose
My father in law swears by them, he took his amel across the Atlantic and back
I'm looking at a second hand in the med
Good luck great blog
V jealous
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Thank you! I saw few Amel 54 and SM for sale at the Amel dock in La Rochelle. At least one looked pristine from the outside. One had covers for the portion of the sail that is not in the furler. You might want to contact Amel.
Good luck.
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20-12-2018, 18:14
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#133
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Boat: CT-38 Princess - Fast Cruiser ( Alen Warrick )
Posts: 11
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Re: Amel 50 - Build Thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by boom23
Hi Mike,
The Amel 50 comes with 400Ah 24V MasterVolt Gel Batteries. The Generator option, includes extra 200Ah batteries. So, I will be having 600Ah @ 24V.
The house bank is charged by a MasterVolt 110A 24V alternator with external MasterVolt regulator. The starting battery is charged by the standard Volvo alternator. Both have serpentine belts.
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Terrific, thank you so much for providing this extremely helpful information.
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21-12-2018, 15:01
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#134
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Med.
Boat: Amel 50
Posts: 1,016
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Re: Amel 50 - Build Thread
I asked for a build update before the holidays and I got some more pictures.
The Amel 50 watertight engine room is under the cockpit floor. Most of the cockpit floor tilts up, without having to remove anything. There is a stainless ladder to climb down. A large portion of the engine room (over the main engine and portion of the generator) is stand up. There is room to walk or wedge yourself (she is only 50ft long) to access all the machinery. Overall, I find the machinery maintenance access very good and thought out. In addition, if I ever have to replace an engine or generator, I will not have to cut the boat to get to it.
This picture shows part of the engine room showing the 8KW Onan generator, water maker (Dessalator Duo 100 L/H, bottom left), watermaker membranes (easy to reach), the watermaker panel and an electrical by-pass panel. There is another watermaker control panel at the chart table.
This is the main engine (Volvo D3-110, covered), and the bilge pump. I was a little concerned about the Volvo impeller access (located forward starboard about half way down), and last time I was at the factory I tried to access it. There is enough room to lay down in front of the engine to access it and use both hands.
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21-12-2018, 15:13
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#135
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Med.
Boat: Amel 50
Posts: 1,016
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Re: Amel 50 - Build Thread
The forward stateroom is progressing. Some of the paneling is installed. The cabinets are there and the light wiring seems complete.
The cleat in the starboard cabinet is an Amel feature. I believe this cleat is related to the bow locker hatch. There is a line going from the bow locker hatch to this cleat. This way, one can "lock" the bow locker hatch from the inside. There is no bow locker hatch key lock as they do not last for long and are easy to bypass. This is another way that Amel thought out of the box to solve a problem. I find this solution, interesting and effective.
This is the forward head. The plumbing and wiring is in place. Again, everything is visible and accessible, as the wall panel (the one with the vent and switches) is easily removable.
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