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Old 22-11-2010, 16:32   #1
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Location: Northern Ireland
Boat: Hunter 701 23ft - Panache
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Ah, Yes . . . That Engine Incident !

If any of you were passing through the maintenance section you would have enjoyed a giggle at my recent experience of my outboard snapping off the engine block and taking a swim. You may have noticed that I recorded that the engine was running when it hit the water and that it made a few revolutions prior to cutting out. Well down at the boat tonight (simply the first time I've had a chance to look and there is a nick of about 10mm wide out of the corner of the transom. It is exactly at the water level and is down to fibre mat but only just....I know this is going to seriously encourage omosis but what about worse things....It is sitting quite happy floating in teh marina and has been for two weeks since the incident no wtare intrusion into aft hatch....I was planning to sail up to my own marina (about 2 hours on water)....should I lift out and try to repair (and how) or will it survive 10 months and then repair next lift out....

I know you are likely to advise the former but I would appreciate a reasonable assessment of risk,


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Old 22-11-2010, 16:37   #2
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At the very least i'd say try to seal it up temporarily with some epoxy paint or even a good covering of silicon sealant. Leaving it bare is just asking for trouble and a more expensive proper repair next year.
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Old 22-11-2010, 18:45   #3
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If you can load the boat to get that corner out of the water - then dry it with a hair dryer - carefully. Never get it hot enough that you cannot put your hand on it. Then paint a few layers of epoxy (e.g., West System) over the gouge and it should last until the next haulout. This is assuming, as you said, it is only through the gelcoat and not deep into the laminate.
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Old 22-11-2010, 19:39   #4
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West epoxy or Interlux 2000. Do be careful not to drop the dryer into the water while it's plugged in.

Sorry to disagree simonmd but do not use silicone. The silicone oils penetrate the glass and nothing will stick to it after, not epoxy or even more silicone.
The water is always bluer on the other side of the ocean.
Sometimes it's necessary to state the obvious for the benefit of the oblivious.
Rust is the poor man's Loctite.
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Old 22-11-2010, 20:07   #5
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Thumbs up This is what I would use

How to make underwater repairs:

-Product: Marine-Tex Flex Set

-Materials: Clean mixing board and mixing stick or trowel, wet/dry sandpaper, wax paper or plastic wrap

-Conditions: Minimum 65˚F water temperature, 48 hours to fully cure at 65˚F

-Read instructions on product packaging. Substitute wet/dry sanding for surface preparation. Mix product for 2-3 minutes, then deposit it on wax paper or plastic wrap. Slide the wax paper or plastic wrap onto palm of hand with epoxy facing up. Take it below the water line and apply to surface. Be careful not to smack or pancake the product onto the surface, this will trap water under the epoxy. Instead, roll the epoxy onto the repair to push water out of the way. Leave wax paper/plastic wrap on the repair while full cure takes place for best results.
Faithful are the Wounds of a Friend, but the Kisses of the Enemy are Deceitful! ........
The measure of a man is how he navigates to a proper shore in the midst of a storm!
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