Cruisers Forum

  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums. Advertise Here
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 03-11-2016, 09:02   #16
Registered User
markwesti's Avatar

Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Long Beach Ca.
Boat: Westsail 28
Posts: 340
Re: Advice on varnish/oil bowsprit

Originally Posted by Ruddy Duck View Post
Many thanks for the replies.

The most elementary part of my question has not been addressed yet. It has to do with the strips of calking. Below is the only picture I have that shows the bowsprit (taken before I touched any of the wood).

My assumption is that I need to strip out all of the old calk, strip the wood, apply a finish (varnish/cetol/oil) and re-calk.

In a year, when it is time to add a coat of varnish or cetol, do I have to remove all of the calk again? I'm assuming the varnish should not be applied over the calk.

Also, the boat is a 1977 Bristol 40 Yawl located in Louisiana.

Thanks again!
Couple of things I have noticed using Cetol , and I have used it over 25'yrs . Is that yes I have had success applying it over caulking and if you cover it , it lasts a very long time . On our boat the cap rail and rub rail seem to get the most sun and I generally go two seasons in between coats , that is what works for me . Prolly if I re coated once a yr. I would have a easier time , but on that thought you don't want to get it built up. The stuff needs to be kept thin . About the caulking if it needs re placing then that is what you must do but if you can just sand it down that is what I would do , I'm not a perfectionist haha . Here is a good deal on it .
Interlux Cetol Marine Natural Teak Wood Finish, Quart IVA316/QT | eBay
markwesti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2016, 09:29   #17
Registered User

Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 84
Re: Advice on varnish/oil bowsprit

Ruddy Duck -I have a Gulfstar 41 Ketch in the Orleans Marina in New Orleans.I have used Varnish, Cetol and Cetol light over latex, butyl and silicone sealant joints with some success. The problem is differential movement.Sealants that get hard, like latex and urethane have the least problems.Sealants that remain soft, like silicone sometimes causes the Cetol to crack and peel, but only if the joints are wide, and have significant movement.I typically apply 3 coats over raw teak, and touch up with one coat every year, but only in spots where chipped. Typically I recoat all of the teak with one coat every three years whether it needs it or not.I suggest that you try 3 coats of Cetol with a scotch brite pass between coats, go sailing, and look for places to touch up next year.
CHRIS V CLEMENT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2016, 09:44   #18
Registered User
Dougtiff's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: San Rafael, Ca.
Boat: Gaff rigged Ketch[Spray]37' on deck
Posts: 602
Re: Advice on varnish/oil bowsprit

My experience with oil is don't, as it attracts dirt and turns black after awhile, in regard to the caulking, you should be able to overcoat it with most product's.
Dougtiff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2016, 09:49   #19
Registered User
Cheechako's Avatar

Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Skagit City, WA
Posts: 25,148
Re: Advice on varnish/oil bowsprit

You can finish over the caulk no problem. As far as coatings, I never found one that last very long. You need to do multi coats per year. 3 coats of Cetol in the PNW rainy environment would start breaking thru in a year.
The only finish I've ever found to last is oil based stain I used on my garage cedar shingles. I just sprayed it on with a garden sprayer. It's been 15 years and I've only sprayed on twice total. They look like new. The stuff amazes me as they are exposed to direct summer sun and of course all our rain. But that is a vertical surface, which doesn't get effected by the abrasive pounding rain near as much as a flat surface.
"I spent most of my money on Booze, Broads and Boats. The rest I wasted" - Elmore Leonard

Cheechako is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2016, 09:50   #20
Registered User
Rigdaddy's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Matagorda, TX catching my breath
Boat: Hans Christian 41 T
Posts: 139
Re: Advice on varnish/oil bowsprit

Originally Posted by Ruddy Duck View Post
Many thanks for the replies.

The most elementary part of my question has not been addressed yet. It has to do with the strips of calking.
Thanks again!
When I varnished my companionway cover last year, I did not remove the calking. The results were ok but would have been better had I gone to the trouble to remove it. Next time I'll remove it and find out if it is worth the trouble.
Timing is everything
Rigdaddy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2016, 09:55   #21
Registered User

Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Alberta
Boat: Gozzard 36
Posts: 115
Re: Advice on varnish/oil bowsprit

Cetol would probably work just fine where you are located. Your choice what colours or combinations of types.

Assuming that your caulking is proper marine caulking, that it has not separated from the adjoining wood and is not cracked then you should be able to apply cetol straight over it.

In tropical or semi-tropical areas you will probably need to do a maintenance coat (one thin coat)of cetol every year but might be able to stretch it to every second year. By the third year it starts to look fairly battered.

The real trick is to fill-in or cover any cracks or chips as soon as possible as otherwise water will intrude and get underneath the cetol coating and the wood will start to blacken in and around the crack or gouge in the cetol overcoat and the cetol will start to lift and crack further

I carry a small bottle of cetol with a brush in it (think of a large nail polish bottle) and any time I find a crack or gouge I just fill it in with a dab of cetol as a maintenace step ---then later (in a year or so) when I do my annual or bi-annual cetol varnishing there is very little sanding, smoothing or filling---eazee peezee.

As for your anchor chain chipping your cetol 'varnished' bowsprit ---yes it will chip it but not as quickly or as much as you might have anticipated especially if the chain when taut is lifted off of the bowsprit.

Again if the chain does chip the 'sprit then just do a maintenance daub where it has chipped and nobody will likely even notice.

Only other alternative is to install some form of protective material on the bowsprit under where the chain will run such as a strip of sacrificial or protective kingsboard, 'plastic' etc which will be effective in preventing chips or gouging but depending on how you do it may or may not be attractive.

Hope that helps

Gozzard 36
in Mazatlan (and cetoled annually)
foothillsailor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2016, 10:11   #22
Registered User
bailsout's Avatar

Join Date: May 2013
Location: Morro Bay, CA
Boat: Herreshoff 28 modified ketch- wood
Posts: 379
Re: Advice on varnish/oil bowsprit

I like the idea of removing and not replacing the caulking.
Teak oiling after a good cleaning is easiest if you remain vigilant with cleaning and oiling.
bailsout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2016, 10:18   #23
Registered User
msrcal36's Avatar

Join Date: May 2008
Location: Richmond YC, SF Bay
Boat: 1974 Cal Cruising 35
Posts: 105
Re: Advice on varnish/oil bowsprit

Your bow sprit is meant to be a foot hold. As such it should provide a nonskid surface. Varnishing it makes for a slippery platform. It is a working surface. Removing and recaulking with Thiokol is a major job. If you want it pretty do what Pardys did with their teak decks: scrub weekly or monthly with scotchbrite pad for a golden teak look.
Mike Robinson
S/V Eleanor May
msrcal36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2016, 14:15   #24
Registered User
CarinaPDX's Avatar

Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Portland, Oregon, USA
Boat: 31' Cape George Cutter
Posts: 3,222
Re: Advice on varnish/oil bowsprit

I have been using Cetol for years and find that it substantially out-performs varnish, and don't get me started about oils and oil-based coatings. The trick to keeping Cetol looking like varnish instead of orange is to make the first 2 coats the pigmented type (Natural, Light, Teak, whatever) and then finish with a couple of coats of Cetol Clear. For annual maintenance just scrub and dry, then put a couple more coats of Clear on top. No sanding required. In rainy Portland it is possible to skip a year without problem. My experience with varnish is that it has to be sanded and overcoated twice a year to maintain it. Also, it is possible to repair Cetol by taking the damaged area down to bare wood, coat with 2 coats of pigmented Cetol, then build up with Clear - it blends well. After a couple of years varnish repairs are ugly and sanding the entirety down to bare wood is necessary. Also, varnish darkens with age.

[Edit: mix Interlux non-skid powder into an extra coat for the top of the bowsprit or platform - it is very grippy but very hard to see - it all just looks like varnish.]

CarinaPDX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2016, 17:49   #25
Registered User

Join Date: May 2016
Location: mackay, queensland. australia
Boat: e.a jack (builder), g.l watson (designer), 6.2 mtr wll sailboat
Posts: 533
Re: Advice on varnish/oil bowsprit

linseed oil and turpentine mixed 50/50 won't hurt the caulking and can be wiped on with a cloth to repair a scrape / then the usual bright work maintenance of wipe over with a cloth dampened with the same mix / dries quickly and can be polished with a soft cloth and much elbow grease.

gave up on bright work years ago sanded and painted with epoxy flow coat now the daily maintenance task is wash down with a bucket of sea water
knockabout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2016, 06:15   #26
Registered User

Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 13
Re: Advice on varnish/oil bowsprit

A million thanks to everyone for the guidance.
Ruddy Duck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2016, 15:24   #27
Registered User
jkindredpdx's Avatar

Join Date: May 2011
Location: Portland, OR, USA
Boat: Hallberg Rassy 35'
Posts: 1,200
Images: 5
Re: Advice on varnish/oil bowsprit

I tend to agree with Zee about leaving the grate natural, then you don't have to worry about the caulk or slipping.

If you want a finished look, I've oiled my caulked cockpit locker and engine compartment lids with Daly's Seafin Teak Oil with no apparent issues. I read that Starbrite Premium Golden Teak Oil last a little longer than Daly's.

If you are wanting a hard sealed finish on the grating, and want the look of the caulking... you could remove the black caulking, strip and renew the wood, and then, apply two part epoxy caulking and finish with Cetol, lacquer, or coating of your choice.
__________________ Jim K.
jkindredpdx is offline   Reply With Quote

bowsprit, oil, varnish

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Varnish or not to Varnish ? keelkicker Construction, Maintenance & Refit 45 04-02-2016 14:35
Varnish over Polyurethane? And PU over Varnish? MarkJ Construction, Maintenance & Refit 8 06-08-2013 15:31
To VARNISH... or NOT to varnish............. High Cotton Construction, Maintenance & Refit 9 30-11-2007 11:22

Advertise Here

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 06:25.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2023, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Social Knowledge Networks
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2023, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

ShowCase vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.