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Old 30-04-2018, 22:15   #1
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Join Date: Apr 2018
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1998 Bavaria 410 Lagoon

Hi, Anyone know about these boats, has one or had one and can give me some pros and cons?
Can't find much about them, only that there are not many around?
Thanks
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Old 23-02-2019, 02:02   #2
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Boat: Bavaria 430 Caribic
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Re: 1998 Bavaria 410 Lagoon

Bit late this reaction, but i own a Bavaria 430 Caribic 1992. Same hull, different interior aft cabins. What do you want to know about this type of Bavaria?
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Old 07-09-2024, 01:39   #3
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Re: 1998 Bavaria 410 Lagoon

Hey, seems like it has been quiet around this topic for a while but I will give it a go anyways

Me and my wife are currently in search for a boat to eventually be able to go cruising with, leaving from Europe, over the Atlantic and eventually the Pacific. The specific one I am looking at is from 1990 so I assume should be pretty sturdily built.

What is your experience with longer passages, bad weather, etc with your 430?
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Old 07-09-2024, 13:52   #4
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Boat: Bavaria 430 Caribic
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Re: 1998 Bavaria 410 Lagoon

I have since this post sold my 430. But i did sail 60000 NM with her in 23 years. I completely refurbished the interior in 2018-2021 and then sold her.



Pro's: Very sturdy built, no osmosis, good quality interior wood (i revarnished everything using the original wooden panels), oversized stiffeners and beams very well laminated to the hull. MD22A engine very reliable. Wheel controls Rudder via a stainless pushrod (no chain). Swimming platform also enables getting back on the boat when in the water. The companionway (entrance of the cabin) is extremely safe, even in a 90 degree heeling angle (i tried)



Con's (in no particular order): Not a very fast sailor, does not point very high. They where sold with decks covered with a plywood/teak combination that fails after about 10 years. Stansions of the sea railing are prone to cause leaks. The companionway entrance is very high and you have to climb in. Anchor locker lid is wood, not polyester.



I loved the boat, i sailed the Norths Sea, Bay of Biscay, Med and Adriatic with her. Normally on longer trips we had a crew of 4 or 5. We had numerous storms and even ended up on a sandridge standing on the wingkeel and the rudder with no damage at all. In extreme conditions the boat handles well and the interior stays dry and relatively comfortable.



If you buy a 1990 model, i think it will need some work before you can use her for a circumnavigation.
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Old 08-09-2024, 07:44   #5
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Re: 1998 Bavaria 410 Lagoon

Thank you for the quick and extensive reply much appreciated. Seems like you had quite some adventures with your 430. Also very happy about the pros that you mention and that it seems to be a very sturdy boat which can take quite a beating if needed.

The one I am looking at already had the teak deck replaced with Flexiteak recently so it's nice not to have to redo that at least. Regarding the stanchions of the railing did you ever get rid of that problem or even with "fixes" it kept coming back

We are planning to have the boat in Europe for a while so already taking into account that we need to do some work before we can leave for a big trip. I assume you mean things like safety equipment, new sails, engine check, bigger anchor & chain, etc or are we talking about structural things?
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Old 08-09-2024, 13:52   #6
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Boat: Bavaria 430 Caribic
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Re: 1998 Bavaria 410 Lagoon

Well, its Sunday evening and I have some time to write some experiences with my good old Bavaria 430 Caribic.



Are you looking at the Lagoon or Caribic version? We really liked the double aft beds on long passages. We added a lee cloth in both aft cabins reducing the width of the bed and creating some more storage. Very comfortable sleeping on passage even in 40+ knots of wind.


The stanchions are mounted in a small stainless holder which is fastened thru the deck using 3 nuts and bolts. Any force on the stanchions is translated to those 3 bolts (m6 I think) and they will start to leak and the stainless holders themselves bend and tear apart after some years. I replaced all the stainless holders with new ones, re-caulked everything and it seemed to be OK. But I checked them every year since then.


Apart from the normal checks (engine, osmosis, standing and running rig etc. etc.) I would pay special attention to (I just wrote down the things I would check if I bought a 430 again…. ):


The 430 has a transom that is an integral part of the hull, not of the deck as in most modern yachts. This greatly enhances the stiffness of the hull. The deck then is mounted on the hull using hundreds of nuts and bolts that go thru the foot rail, deck and hull flange. This creates a cold bridge on all those bolts. I never experienced any leaks from the deck-hull joint, but with cold outside weather all these bolts where dripping. (Of course the leaking stanchion holders did not help also) Check the back-panels of all the cabinets on port and starboard just under the deck (remove the trim above the back panel) and see if you find any black spots of water ingress into the wood. Adding isolation behind the cabinets may solve this problem…


The mast is standing on a compression post in de hallway between the main cabin and the fore-peak cabin. There are 2 large structural bulkheads, one just in front of the mast and in the main cabin (the most critical one). Open the floorboards and check if the bulkheads are still securely laminated to the hull. Also check the lamination of the chain-plates and the bulkheads close by. If you leave the mast on for years and years you will find that the hull starts to deform a little and the side decks are raised a little. You cant see it with the naked eye, but the bulkheads will show the amount of deformation. Another check is to empty a bucket of water on deck next to the mast and see if any water stays behind around the mast step indicating a little ‘dip’ in the deck. None of this has to be a problem, take the mast of in the winter and the hull will settle again. But if the bulkhead-hull lamination starts to fail you have to address it.



The rudder has a nylon bearing at the bottom that slides within a sleeve. The nylon bearing will absorb a little water and the bearing starts to move heavy. The top bearing is just the conical rudder shaft in a metal sleeve… it will wear out. Basically the whole rudder ‘hangs’ on a large nut on top of the top bearing. Check by disconnecting the push-rod and autopilot from the rudder quadrant and then move the rudder manually to check for play or heavy movement.


The keel bolts are caulked with butyl, check if the butyl is still in good condition, it is the grey glue-like stuff around the keel bolts. It should be flexible and a little sticky. Don’t use any solvent to clean the keel bolts!


The steering wheel is a rack and pinion system. Under heavy load one can damage the teeth resulting in some stuck steering wheel behavior. Parts are very difficult to find…


Check the lid and storage of the swimming platform. It gets a lot of water and is known to rot away, also check the secondary small bulkheads there for wood-rot. And while on the swimming platform also check the external shower housing. The polyester is very thin and not UV resistant…. It will fall apart after some time in the sun. Although the swimming platform can not leak into the boat, it can still rot away...


The deck is a wood core sandwich construction, and none of the deck hatches, stanchions or anything else bolted to the deck is bolted in solid epoxy or polyester (except around the mast step). Any leak in the caulking will start to rot away your wooden core. Check every inch of the deck for excessive movement indicating a rotten wood core inside. And when re-caulking the deck hatches, use the 'drill-fill-drill' system when fastening them again.



That’s it for now, of course there is much more to check but this post is getting too long already………😊
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