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Old 16-04-2018, 04:58   #1
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New Caledonia Suggestions

Hi New Cal veterans,

I will be skippering a catamaran for three weeks in August starting in Noumea. I'd be grateful for any suggestions for a good itinerary. At first glance the Loyalty Islands sound like a feasible and worthy goal before we turn around and head back towards Noumea. We would, of course, love to spend some time exploring the southern lagoon islands and Isle of Pines, but I'm open to all suggestions. We will have four adults and two kids on board and some of us speak French. Remote places as well as interaction with locals appeal to us.

Thanks,

Ben
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Old 16-04-2018, 15:05   #2
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Re: New Caledonia Suggestions

If you want great local info from a wonderful agent you can't go past Chloe Morin of Noumea Ocean. French & English.
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Old 16-04-2018, 23:09   #3
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Re: New Caledonia Suggestions

In our experience, it is easier to meet local people outside of Noumea, both Caldoche and Kanak.

Predominant winds are SE, so the trip from Noumea to the Loyalties via Isle des Pin and return should be pretty pleasant. I personally enjoy Baie de St. Vincent, a comfortable daysail northwest of Noumea, and Isle Ducos (hiking), and Isle Tenia, which is a marine reserve, where you will have a chance not only for diving, snorkeling, but also meeting locals who have come there to enjoy the place.

Get one of the cruising guides. There is one available on disc. A new one probably has the errors fixed.

Now, there is ciguatera there, and I would strongly recommend that you do not fish for the table. Both Jim and I have had it, and we saw a couple of people so sick from ciguatoxic poison that the doc was afraid to move them from their boat to the clinic. Imho, it is well worth avoiding.

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Old 16-04-2018, 23:25   #4
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Re: New Caledonia Suggestions

Great advice. Thank you. Is the east coast of Grande Terre worth exploring? Would you skip the Loyalties in favour of spending more time in the big western lagoon? Would visiting Belep in the north be feasible?
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Old 17-04-2018, 01:16   #5
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Re: New Caledonia Suggestions

And thanks for the ciguatera warning. I like to throw out a line but will give it a miss over there. What a shame.
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Old 17-04-2018, 03:35   #6
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Re: New Caledonia Suggestions

Budawang, you've asked a complicated question with no correct answer! Here's a few thoughts:

Belep: We had a good time there on our single visit. Folks in Noumea advised against going due to "native unrest". We were made welcome, especially after going to some effort to track down the local chief and make a ritual gift (always a good idea in Kanak villages). NOt many yachts go there...

We've enjoyed our trips to the Loyalties, but haven't made it to Ouvea yet. Word is that there are some folks there who don't like yotties and have caused problems. Dunno how true... need current data. LIfou and Mare are friendly and have some good anchorages, all wx dependent.

Il de Pins is truly pretty, but kinda touristy. Some areas off limits to yotties at times. Frequent cruise ship and daily ferries from Noumea bring HORDES of pink tourists... ok if you like that sort of stuff.

On the way to I de P a stop in Baie Prony with a walk to the top of Cap Undua is good. The view from the lighthouse area is spectacular and gives one an idea about the layout of that part of the southern lagoon. From there a stop at Il Mato and then on to I d P is an easy pair of daysails, or you can do it in one shot if desired. May be hard on the wind.

Up the east coast, there are lots of anchorages with decent protection. The abandonded mines at B Ouinne are fascinating if interested in old machinery. I think there is still a Kiwi family resident there. It is the aircraft maintenance spot for a big mining firm, and the Kiwi is a second generation live in a & e repair guy, most interesting to me!

We did a continuous circumnavigation some years back. Took 7 weeks, going up the east and down the west coast. Saw two other yachts after exiting Havana pass! So, there is a lot to do and see, and what would be best for you I can't guess.

If you are surfers a whole different plan would be required, and I'm not competent to advise there... but I gather that there are some good breaks around. And of course,it is a kite surfing paradise, with LOTS of local whizzes flying about.

Wonderful place... you will likely love it and not wanna leave!

Jim

PS In august the water will still be fairly cold (at least to us) so thin wet suits are a good idea IMO
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Old 17-04-2018, 04:19   #7
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Re: New Caledonia Suggestions

Hi Jim that's an awesome reply. I can't wait! Yes I also heard there were issues in Ouvea. I think the Impi folk did a video on their interaction with one of the chiefs there. Things might be more tense than usual with the November independence referendum looming. We will make a point of respecting the coutume.
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Old 17-04-2018, 05:25   #8
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Re: New Caledonia Suggestions

...did it the other way round in 91 & enjoyed it a lot!
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