Yanmar 2GM20F fuel filter maintenence

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Compass790

Can't find actual Yanmar spec Wotname ( Doubt they make their expensive filters anyway ) but this is a replacement for that part no. & Donaldson would claim to meet or exceed Yanmars spec. Interestingly it's 16 micron, more coarse than I would have expected for a final filter. Glad I've substituted a 5 micron one for Yanmars then

https://shop.donaldson.com/store/en-...estid=3943509#

That's a good find and I note they have an Aussie contact. I will give them a call sometime to check their pricing against the Yanmar dealer - I assuming it will be better .

Where did you source your 5 micron one?

[Compass790]

Originally Posted by Wotname

That's a good find and I note they have an Aussie contact. I will give them a call sometime to check their pricing against the Yanmar dealer - I assuming it will be better .

Where did you source your 5 micron one?

I gotta better deal than that for you cobber you can get a Ryco R2438P from supercheap auto or Repco thats crosses with the Donaldson with the added bonus that their reamer is about 1/4 the diameter of the yanmar agents

My 5 micron secondary filter is a spin on Baldwin BF988. It's a custom setup as i ditched the yanmar dinky filter housing altogether & cobbled up the replacement from a remote oil filter mount which is mounted in a more convenient location.
Not sure how many hours that filter will do but I'm picking at least 400 & only costs $20 vs $45 for the yanmar "genuine" of which you would need 4 of in 400 hrs if you changed to schedule. I did it more for the 5 micron filter but it's a win win AFAIK
Probly overkill as they go for ages with the 16 micron filters but was happy to do it anyway to help pump& injector life

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Compass790

I gotta better deal than that for you cobber you can get a Ryco R2438P from supercheap auto or Repco thats crosses with the Donaldson with the added bonus that their reamer is about 1/4 the diameter of the yanmar agents

This is a good news day

My 5 micron secondary filter is a spin on Baldwin BF988. It's a custom setup as i ditched the yanmar dinky filter housing altogether & cobbled up the replacement from a remote oil filter mount which is mounted in a more convenient location.
Not sure how many hours that filter will do but I'm picking at least 400 & only costs $20 vs $45 for the yanmar "genuine" of which you would need 4 of in 400 hrs if you changed to schedule. I did it more for the 5 micron filter but it's a win win AFAIK
Probly overkill as they go for ages with the 16 micron filters but was happy to do it anyway to help pump& injector life

OK, now I understand - you are running bespoke secondary off engine filter!

[Compass790]

Originally Posted by Wotname

OK, now I understand - you are running bespoke secondary off engine filter!

CORRECTION: My remote fuel filter mount has a different thread to match the Baldwin BF988 spin on fuel filter. You cant use a normal remote oil filter mount without an adapter as they have a different thread
Baldwin BF 988 spin on fuel filter has a 16x1.5mm thread whereas most remote oil filter mounts have 3/4" x16 or 20 x 1.5mm thread

Apologies as my memory failed me as i changed oil filtering system as well as fuel filtering system 5 years ago & confused myself

[paulg222]

Originally Posted by dennismenace111

A whole lot less cussing! I bought a new Racor with an integral pump. I can actually bleed all the way to the injectors now. Makes for alot less mess and diesel stink in the engine dungeon!

Please say more about this. I do see that a lot of Racors have a manual pump on top (haven't checked mine yet). Does that mean that you can use that pump to bleed the whole system?

[dennismenace111]

Originally Posted by Boatyarddog

My 2gm20f ran a 2 Micron filter element in the engine mounted secondary filter housing.
The primary was a 10 micron.
There may be different filtration options.
SV Cloud Duster

Thats what Ive seen and thats what I have.... a 10 Micron on the Racor and 2 micron on the engine filter. Seems to work well. Last I looked the engine filter was immaculate...

[dennismenace111]

Originally Posted by paulg222

Please say more about this. I do see that a lot of Racors have a manual pump on top (haven't checked mine yet). Does that mean that you can use that pump to bleed the whole system?

When I first installed it, I had no clue how it worked so I just pumped the crap out of it till it got really hard to pump...thinking it worked like an outboard motor primer bulb. Evidently I built up quite alot of pressure as I was able to bleed the engine filter and then go directly to the injectors and bleed each individually and still had pressure on the system.

Bleeding goes much faster now that you dont waste time with the primer on the engine driven pump.

I suppose it would go even better had I filled the engine filter with clean fuel before I started.

I have a Racor 230R with a 10 micron spin on filter and a 2 micron filter in the engine filter.

[Secondshift]

Originally Posted by paulg222

Please say more about this. I do see that a lot of Racors have a manual pump on top (haven't checked mine yet). Does that mean that you can use that pump to bleed the whole system?

That is dependant on engine model. Most engines require turning over the engine to cycle the high pressure pump and bleed the injectors.
.

[Sonosailor]

Since you are a newbie, here is what I do. I have two 2GM20s. My primary is a Racor. I travel in the hot Caribbean.

I replaced my Racor filters with 2 micron filters. Why use 10, when the surface area is so fantastically large and the little engines need so little? This way, I seldom work on the secondary Yanmar filter. The threads are small and it is difficult to put it together without mishap, so skip a few rounds each time. You are discouraged from topping up this filter, and told to bleed it manually to fill it. Don’t use the bleed screw as it is delicate also, with tiny threads. Loosen the outgoing fitting instead, and wait for the bubbles to disappear.

I cleaned my fuel tank some years back and only jerry jug fuel to it now. I fill 3 cans, add biokill, wait a few days for a flat day, then pour the supernatant through into the tank, attempting to leave a litre or two in the can. The remainder is accumulated in another jerry jug, allowed to settle, and tipped in in a similar fashion on next fill up. I always find a tiny bit of water and dirt at the bottom of the jug, always. You may never get a bad dose of fuel in the life of the boat, but if you do, you’ll have so much trouble that you will wish you chose this method.

Now the Racor. With clean fuel, a large surface area, low fuel use, and no water, how often should you change it? Not very. Good news, you have a glass/plastic viewer to see how the fuel is doing. Whenever you do get to it, shut off the supply, drain the housing into an appropriate container, remove the top and filter. If you are annoyed that the glass and vanes are getting dirty, there is no need to disassemble. Take a hardware syringe (West Marine kit?), take up the discarded fuel from the container, and spray it down into the empty housing, allowing it to continue to drain. Repeat until it looks good, and re-assemble. This housing, you ARE encouraged to top up with clean fuel. You probably have some, if you are jerry jugging fuel like I do.

[Compass790]

Originally Posted by dennismenace111

Thats what Ive seen and thats what I have.... a 10 Micron on the Racor and 2 micron on the engine filter. Seems to work well. Last I looked the engine filter was immaculate...

Is your engine filter the Yanmar original?
Is the filter cartridge that goes in it, if it is the yanmar housing, a genuine yanmar supplied 2 micron?
If so how do you know it's a 2 micron? Have you seen a spec for it or is that what the Yanmar dealer says?
If its an aftermarket 2 micron filter element please share details of the supplier.
I would like to get one as I still have the original filter bowl
thanks if you can help