We went to Cuba 3/2018

[CaptsWife]

Excellent info.

[zboss]

Great write up. What other forma did you have to complete besides the 3300?

[Guitar Frank]

I sailed there last year in the St Pete to Havana race. I found it much like you describe. Can't wait to go back!

[akprb]

Equally poor, a collectivist success story.

Good post!

[wcapital]

Thanks for this informative and detailed post. In most regards is a very accurate depiction of our experience in visiting Cuba on a private (38' sloop) vessel just over 20 years ago.....except for the passage details. Our route then, over Christmas - New Years, was direct Key West - Havana, 20 hours of motorsailing and spinnaker reaching in light to moderate conditions.....but then 45 hours of beating our heads in dead upwind against 25-35k and 10-20' seas, from Cayo Levisa (100 or so miles west of Havana, in the Archipelago de Colorado). Ahhh, to be young and crazy again!

We didn't utilize buses (don't recall if an option then), but experience with taxis and all-day tours were similar. And it's a shame that basics are still scarce. The more things change, the more they stay the same, I guess.

I'd be interested to hear more about your experiences on land - restaurants, music, other sightseeing, security and other officialdom....

[astokel]

As Canadians, we have been welcomed in Cuba for more than 40 years. The Cuban people are marvelous and very accommodating. A smile and an "Hola" go along way.

Because of the US embargo, there are many shortages but bring toothpaste, bismuth and ibuprofen and you will be welcomed everywhere.

There are now many private small hotels and restaurants (thanks Raul) and you pretty much have the run of a country with very little crime.

I prefer down south on the Caribbean side, but it is much less developed.

[Lodbrog1]

We entered Cuba on the Southcoast at Santiago de CUba 3 years ago and had much the same experience with agents and hierarchy. We were on a US doc vessel and were given entrance Visas to place in our passports and forfeited when we checked out so that there was no record of our visit. The only wrinkle was to prove that one had health insurance and proof of that. We had not, so we paid a per diem rate of approx 4 dollars per day. We rented a car and drove through out the entire south coast and were fortunate not to have had an accident of any sort. If there had been one it is immediately jailable until remedy and the system processes you....months?? We were told this afterwards. And advised to hire a driver next time. The other curious thing is that they have 2 separate currencies. One for the less fortunate for the basics needs and if they were to desire an import of sorts like foreign shoes, they must purchase the higher privelidged currency. Our next trip will include Gardens of the Queen which is semi open by permit and then on to Havana. Overall a fantastic experience when you consider that not much has changed since 1956.

[npennin]

How difficult was it to get the proper US Coast Guard forms allowing the trip? Where do we start that process?

Thank you.

[BernBruce]

We sailed into Cuba in 2014, and Marina Hemmingway was much like you described but everyone had there hand out for tips!! We spent over 4 months off and on there over 3 years and our boat was stripped of anything they could take to include our ropes which we needed to sail safely!! The rest of Cuba is safe, fun and amazing people. We sailed out of the other end and the people were a total different cut and did't ask for a thing. At the end of the day, we love Cuba and its people. They earn 20 a month for extras but shampoo, conditioner and soap can cost that! There were many who asked me for a bar of soap over the years, so that is what we pack, and lots of them!! Busses are easy once you get the hang of them 4 cents and 8 cents for a luxury bus. Go to Havana cemetary to see over 100,000 angel statues, very interesting!

[Island Time O25]

We stopped at Hemingway Marina last year in February on our way from Key West to Panama Canal. Similar experience except that our skipper knew one of the 3 port captains from his numerous previous visits and much of the official parts of the visit - agro, health, canine searches, etc. were disposed off by way of a few shots of vodka with port captain and a few Euro coins here and there to the rest of the official gang.

Our crew being from the old country in Europe ourselves felt that given the circumstances of life under the commie regime the so called bribes were more like donations to the poor. Although we realize that those who work in and around Hemingway Marina are way rich by local standards but they are still very poor compared to even a welfare recipient in US.

The city was a site in itself - funky, delapidated but not threatening, the way Colon was. One big caution - to watch underfoot as the potholes at sidewalks and streets can swallow an elephant or so they seemed. Anything which looks screams or smells "touristy" is about 5-10 times more expensive than what locals would pay. Sometime even 20 times more. And it would do us much good if we could converse in rudimentary Spanish although English is somewhat more or less understood, at least by the younger folks. My own impression was that the less English a local professed the less chance there would be for us to be overcharged or taken advantage of.

Overall a very positive and enriching experience. Especially after visiting Panama a week later. Day and night as far as I am concerned. Not in Panama's favor. Does not speak well for our "capitalist" system there.

[suenodelmar]

Regarding on-land experiences, I have flown to Cuba three times in the last 18 months. If someone in your party speaks Spanish, the experience will be completely different and, I would say, much richer. As has been said, the Cuban people are very warm and hospitable. They will invite you, a complete stranger, into their homes. They are happy, ready to celebrate anything on a moment's notice, and very resourceful. All able-bodied Cubans are required to work, usually for the government-owned enterprises. The average Cuban earns less than $20 per month. A high school teacher may earn about $13 per month, a college professor about $15 per month, and a physician medical researcher about $150 per month after many years of service. Housing is free but often substandard, to put it charitably. The free food is a minimal subsistence allotment. Government food and variety stores have limited stocks and at prices similar to US prices. Open-air markets offer fruits, vegetables and some meats, all at significantly lower prices. Because of the failure of the socialist system , an estimated 70% of the economy is underground. Until the Obama administration ended the automatic visa program for Cubans fleeing in boats, there was a thriving clandestine boat-building industry. A hand-held GPS would sell for $500 on the street. Some guys tried to escape multiple times. Sharks got some. Taxi rides in "almendrones," pre-1958 US cars picking up as many people as will fit inside, cost 50 cents. A two-stage almendrone ride from Marina Hemingway, or from the airport, to Central Havana costs two dollars. Any city bus costs four cents, but they are often crowded. Restaurant meals typically cost $15 or less in tourist zones, but only $2 to $3 in local-trade restaurants. A sandwich or hamburger at a to-go stand costs less than one dollar. A room in a private home (Casa Particular), most with private baths, costs about $40 per night in Old-Town Havana (Havana Vieja) and about $25 per night in other areas. They may include breakfast with the hosts. These stays are a great way to meet local people, their family and friends. A performance at one of the major theaters costs about $35. Wi-Fi is slow (routed through an undersea cable to Venezuela) and scarcely available at about $3 per hour, requiring purchase of prepaid cards. You will see Cubans clustered on sidewalks near some hotels picking up signals. A few enterprising Cubans offer Wi-Fi in a few city parks at $1 per hour. Cell service is good in Havana. A SIM card costs $40. There are two currencies, CUC's tied to the US dollar but with a13% conversion charge, and Pesos at 24 to one CUC. Be cautious about switcheroos. The streets of Havana are generally safe, with great police presence. Beware of pickpockets on city busses. They know that US credit/debit cards are useless, so US tourists are flush with cash. If you get pickpocketed, it can take a week, and the kindly help of a Cuban "relative," to get money wired in via Western Union with extensive help of the American Embassy. So, bring enough cash to last for your entire time in Cuba. The best exchange rates are at the airport.

[svchances]

In early February 2015 I left Marathon in the early afternoon and arrived at Marina Gaviota (Varadero) the next morning at 11:00 after a beautiful sail under a full moon which lasted all night. I was warmly welcomed by the Guarda Fronteras who helped me complete the necessary paperwork. I was asked not to leave the boat until the doctor made a cursory examination which amounted to approx 10 questions which he wrote the answers on a clean sheet of foolscap. A boat inspection was necessary because they did not want any exposure to the Ebola virus.
The thing that surprised me most was the number of US boats docked there who sailed directly from home or by way of the Bahamas. I met quite a few of them (some I still keep in touch with) and we all remarked on all of the gentle and accommodating people that live there.
I left the boat in a secure govt. secured marina. Another couple and I found a local to take us to Havana in a 1958 Chev for $100.00 where we stayed for a week at different "Casa Particulars" (Rooms or backyard cabins rented out by property owners). I know very little Spanish but was made to feel at home everywhere I went. Never, never was I asked for a tip but they gratefully accepted donations like soap, perfumes and other toiletries.
All in all one of my best sailing excursions.

[gulfcoastsailor]

Personally I am very surprised a charter outfit would entry into Cuban waters at this point in time. Wonder if the boat owner was aware⚓️

[scuba0_1]

Originally Posted by gulfcoastsailor

Personally I am very surprised a charter outfit would entry into Cuban waters at this point in time. Wonder if the boat owner was aware⚓️

As I stated before you have to put a float plan with the charter company and yes the owners were aware. Apparently you haven't checked out many Charters because most of the charters we looked at had Cuba options.

[Ndavies]

Great post!
Very consistent with what we found on our last 3 visits to Cuba (2015, 2016, and 2017).

One key question for you - did the USCG ask you to check in with them on your return or did you do this voluntarily? We were told to call USCG upon return in 2015, but not in 2016 or 2017.

Thanks
Neil