Both of my
boats reside in a marina where it is a violation of the
lease to sail in or out. Many, if not most,
marinas have similar rules, some enforced more vigorously than others. But do discuss things over with your
insurance company before engaging in what some would call "stunt sailing" around other
boats, some costing into the millions. Especially when you can buy a brand new
outboard and bracket for considerably south of $2k.
If you don't want to mess around with a smoke belching clankasaurus then that is totally understandable, and there are others who share that philosophy. And so, there are options, such as oars (you will need to make or have them made, for most boats over about 26', unfortunately) or
electric (serious tradeoffs between bank size and speed/range) which is great for just
docking and stuff. A good, efficient, economical electric
propulsion setup is a pretty geeky endeavor, and oars, well, it can be hard to find them long enough off the shelf, and rowing is kinda labor intensive.
A Beta
diesel at 10hp is only about $8k, or get the base Kubota tracktor engine and marinize it yourself, maybe with a used engine for a few hundred bucks. Lots of
work, and you will either be a real diesel geek when you are done, or likely have a pretty whack setup. You might also find an old Atomic 4 that has a few years left in it for a couple hundred, or a new build with a newly cast block and
head from Moyer for probably about $4k. Next in order of preference would be the
outboard, new or good used. Then oars or electric.
The inboard options of course presuppose the existence of a shaft log and stuffing tube, maybe strut, and hopefully shaft and prop, too. Converting a boat to inboard that has never had one, is not a casual endeavor.
For an otboard, get the best, sturdiest bracket you can get. This is very important. Upsize rather than downsize. The outboard mount on my GF's little 20' Halman is rated for I think a 40hp outboard and has a nifty spring assist that makes the little Tohatsu 6hp practically jump up by itself when raising it. And no wibble wobble hinky jinky
steering like with her old one. So it costs a hundred or two more... it will be around as long as the boat, at least, and it is
money well spent. Get the best you can get. This is an important
purchase. You should be able to install your new bracket in a few hours. Be sure to back up the bolts on the inside of the
hull to distribute the stress. The outboard needs to be long shaft, and you set the height of the bolt holes so that the cav plate is always under
water. Make sure that there is room to swing the outboard tiller. Also make sure that the outboard is not in the way of the boat's
rudder. It doesn't have to be right on the centerline, and usually, it isn't.
If there is any doubt, have a good yard install the bracket for you. They may want you to buy your outboard, first, so they can measure.
Like others have said, there is NO maximum size for a sail-only vessel. But then again, without an engine or propulsion of SOME kind, you are kind of helpless,at times, certainly having less ability to maneuver safely around other floating property, and it is YOUR FAULT, nobody else's. This goes for pretty much any size boat, however small. Hit someone without benefit of propulsion, and some lawyer will gut you in court.