Rebuilding a Wilcox Crittenden head

[SV Aquavit]

Rebuilding a Wilcox Crittenden Type 51 and need advice. I cant figure out how to separate/remove the upper inlet control shaft (#24) from the camshaft (#30). The upper shaft has a slot. Does it unscrew? The lower shaft did unscrew but that one is not "linked" to the camshaft. TIA

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by SV Aquavit

Rebuilding a Wilcox Crittenden Type 51 and need advice. I cant figure out how to separate/remove the upper inlet control shaft (#24) from the camshaft (#30). The upper shaft has a slot. Does it unscrew? The lower shaft did unscrew but that one is not "linked" to the camshaft. TIA

Remove the setscrew on part 26 then unscrew 27 and all of the seals as well as the shaft 30 should come out easily .
It has been almost a decade since I dealt with a corn cob crusher . So don't quote me .

[peghall]

Where did you find a rebuild kit for it?? They haven't been available since Thetford ran out of inventory for 'em shortly after they bought W-C and then discontinued every W-C product.

I went through my files and while I have the drawings and parts lists for every W-C toilet, I don't have anything that includes instructions for rebuilding. There is one person who MIGHT be able to help you: Patrick, senior tech at Groco who's been there for decades--if he hasn't retired. Groco's EB (discontinued) and HF are very similar to W-C Imperial (the Junior is just a slightly smaller Imperial, same parts list) and Skipper. If there's anyone left who'd have the answer, it's Patrick. Groco's phone # is 410-604-3800

Or...you might get lucky and get a reply from someone who's rebuilt one.

--Peggie

[Manateeman]

We have two Skipper heads that can pump manatee biscuits with ease.
The US Navy did a video on how to repair them. They are bomb proof. ..you can fabricate any bronze piece or jury rig the springs and valves. You can even make new leather parts. A rebuild kit is nice to have but you can fudge it. These older bronze heads are the gold standard in necessary devices and worth rebuilding because...well...they actually work when a Tonka truck falls in. So if you have children, it’s the only one for you.
Happy trails to you
Mark and the manatees

[SV Aquavit]

Originally Posted by newhaul

Remove the setscrew on part 26 then unscrew 27 and all of the seals as well as the shaft 30 should come out easily .
It has been almost a decade since I dealt with a corn cob crusher . So don't quote me .

Thanks! Will try tomorrow.

[SV Aquavit]

Thanks Peggy. A previous owner bought the rebuild kit. I’m actually trying to clean and reuse most of the parts. Rubber seems to have some life left. And surface corrosion is coming off. The two leather seals are disintegrating though so glad I have new ones. May try to make a pair from leather now that it’s apart just to see if homemade will work.

[SV Aquavit]

May try to make a pair of leather seals now that it’s all apart and I have new leather ones to copy.

[tstano]

I had a rebuild kit and gave it to a sailing buddy to drop off at Bacon Sails in Annapolis, Md. That was last November, it may still be there.

[SV Aquavit]

Originally Posted by SV Aquavit

Thanks! Will try tomorrow.

That did it! I actually left the actuator arm attached so I could use it to tap with a hammer. Seemed like a better idea than grabbing the shaft with vice grips and and pulling. Would have never come loose that way. At least without digging into the shaft.

[Locquatious]

I think Budget Marine is still selling rebuild kits for the Skipper. I have not found kits for our Junior.

A little off subject, but I used a cylinder hone on the inside cylinder to smooth it out. We also use TefGel as a coating on the inside. It's a little tougher to pump, but extends the time between rebuilds.

[SV Aquavit]

Originally Posted by Locquatious

I think Budget Marine is still selling rebuild kits for the Skipper. I have not found kits for our Junior.

A little off subject, but I used a cylinder hone on the inside cylinder to smooth it out. We also use TefGel as a coating on the inside. It's a little tougher to pump, but extends the time between rebuilds.

How bad was your cylinder? I just used some steel wool so far. Can't imagine the leather needs a perfect surface to pump but maybe I'm wrong.

[Locquatious]

Originally Posted by SV Aquavit

How bad was your cylinder? I just used some steel wool so far. Can't imagine the leather needs a perfect surface to pump but maybe I'm wrong.

We were using our boat about 40% storing on the hard. Although we fresh water flush after haul-out the pumper gets left in one position and some corrosion occurs at the leather. A few seconds of hone using an electric drill knocks the cylinder smooth. If I recall the hone is a 3-1/2" that stretches out to 4" and was cheap at an auto parts store.