Profurl B35s parts

[Dallasron]

Well I'm starting to get a little nervous. The mast is down and due to go back up in a few weeks and I am having hell finding and extrusion and coupling (they call it bearing holder and bearings) for a profurl b35s.

Any leads or help will be greatly appreciated. Might be calling the sail loft tomorrow and may have to shorten it a few inches if I have to take the broken extrusion to a shop.

Thanks in advance

Ron

[GordMay]

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[Dallasron]

Gord, Thank you, emails sent

[belizesailor]

Im in the process of rebuilding my B35S. Sailing Services in Florida can provide rebuild kit and any other parts you need.

[Dallasron]

Belize,,,thanks and I will be getting touch with them.

Now that I think about it I should probably go ahead and get all new bearings for the extrusions. From what I hear, if the pressed furler bearing (drum) isn't giving a problem, its best to leave them alone?

[belizesailor]

A few pointers:

Strong large diameter cir-clips require a stout pair of cir-clip pliers (both inside and outside variety).

Large diameter bearings are best pressed out and in with a press (any machine shop can do this). If you try to DIY it is likely they will get untrue at some point and damage mating surfaces.

Large diameter seals can be a minor challenge to remove. I drilled holes in mine and put a screw in them for better leverage. Pressing them back in is much easier. I used a large diameter (2"?) PVC pipe union.

On both removal and installation of bearings and cir-clips it is very easy to scratch mating surfaces. If a scratch on a mating surface prevents a seal from keeping water out then the rebuild was a waste of time.

Small ball bearing plugs in grease exit holes will need to be removed so new grease can exit as parts pressed back into place. I drilled and tapped mine to replace with zerk fittings. You could also just put screws in there (lower profile so less chance of fouling). In either case use liberal amounts of TefGel or similar product to galvanically isolate.

SS cage around drum does not need to be removed. So, if its retaining bolts are galvanically corroded in place (likely) you can ignore them.

Galvanic corrosion of fastners on ProFurl units is a well know problem...access to a good basic machine shop can make this easier to deal with. Some of mine were beyond removal and had to be drilled out and tapped to next biggest size. And agian...TefGel or similar on reassembly.

Same rebuild kit is used for swivel and drum so rebuild of both will require 2 kits. They use same diameter seals, cir-clips, and bearings but may not use all in kit.

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by Dallasron

Belize,,,thanks and I will be getting touch with them.

Now that I think about it I should probably go ahead and get all new bearings for the extrusions. From what I hear, if the pressed furler bearing (drum) isn't giving a problem, its best to leave them alone?

The "bearings" in the extrusions are just polymer sleeves. Mine were fine after 16 years and are going back in as is. They are really just loose guides to protect the wire. Most of the rotating loads are on the bearings in the drum and swivel.

[Dallasron]

Thanks to all,,,,I was able to get everything with a quick delivery from Maui Pro. I went ahead and picked up a couple spare sleeve bushings to replace the ones we will be going through as we replace the broken extrusion.

Getting closer to splash day!!!