Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain-Shawn28
Im saving up $10,000can for a used late 70's to early 80's 27-32 foot used Sailboat and Outboard for a Live aboard Cruiser. Planing on Taking Sailing Coastal Lessons for $2000 then the long distance ones and Sailing with me and my Wife, From Vancouver along the Coast of North America to Mexico and The top of South America for 4-5months Vacation. Planing on Staying Close to shore for emergencies, i.e 100-200km off mainland Max. Any Ideas for Boats, Size and Model, So far from research online and on here looking into getting a Catalina 27', Bayliner 32', Macgregor 26M, or possibly something around those sizes in a hunter.
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With C$10k your options will probably be at the lower end of the size range mentioned. Actually you will either have to wait for an extended period and get lucky finding a good condition boat in that price range or you will have to get a boat that needs a bit of work.
As Cal40John mentions, the Mac26 and Bayliner are not at all appropriate in any kind of seas. And as he says you are not going to SAmerica and back in 4-5mo. I would suggest something a little more limited, but ambitious none the less to start. Consider taking a couple months to sail down to the south end of
Puget Sound, then seveal more months to sail back up around
Vancouver Island (counter clock-wise, that direction is hard enough, the other way is truely brutal.) Do
Puget Sound first, you really want the experience before trying to tackle the back side of Vancouver Island.
With a C$10k
budget the trick is finding a decent boat for $5k-8k, leaving you $2-5k to outfit. You will then need to have travelling money too.
I would look at a Cal28, Cascade 29 or a Triton 28 (Aeromarine preferable, but
Pearson is fine too), all have
headroom for anyone under 6' and will cost $4-10k in OK shape with the Cascade being most expensive, and the Triton possibly a bit higher on average than the
Cal. As John mentioned it would be a push to take the
Catalina offshore but if you are doing a more limited Puget Sound and around Vancouver Island
cruise you could make do with a lot of work on the boat.
CAL 28 Sailboat details on sailboatdata.com
CASCADE 29 Sailboat details on sailboatdata.com
TRITON (AEROMARINE) Sailboat details on sailboatdata.com
TRITON (PEARSON) Sailboat details on sailboatdata.com
CATALINA 27 Sailboat details on sailboatdata.com
Cal advantages
a)raised
deck giving great volume below for a 28' boat.
b)quarter berths maximising use of space
c) probably a bit faster than the Triton
d) probably has
outboard freeing
storage space under
cockpit.
e) Masthead rig
Cascade advantages
a) quarter berths maximising use of space
b) probably the fastest by a small margin
c) Probably has inboard
engine giving better motoring performance in waves. Normally the inboard would be more reliable than the
outboard too but the Cascade is likely to have a 40-50 yr old Atomic 4 vs the 0-20yr old
outboard on the Cal.
d) Masthead rig
e) Heaviest
hull construction
Triton Advantages
a) Somewhat heavier hull construction than Cal
b) better motion and easier
steering at sea
c) Probably has inboard
engine giving better motoring performance in waves. Normally the inboard would be more reliable than the
outboard too but the Triton is likely to have a 40-50 yr old Atomic 4 vs the 0-20yr old
outboard on the Cal.
d) reccommendation from Dan Spurr for offshore work (
Pearson Triton Sailboat)
e) Aeromarine version has a slightly heavier hull and has a masthead rig.
Among the big things to check before
buying is that none of the bulkheads are rotted out. Some
delamination of the
deck core can be repaired. Once you have the boat you will want to consider glassing over the hull-deck joint. Also you may want to replace the
rigging. Sta-loc or Norseman terminals are the quickest and best way to do the work and preserve resale value. Cheaper is to learn to splice eyes and do it yourself using 7x7 wire. See Brion Toss's The Rigger's apprentice.
Specific to most Cal boats you would want to make sure the
steel beam under the
compression post has not rusted thru. This beam may be buried under the liner so checking may be difficult. The beam is one more thing to check on Cal's but they do a better job of supporting the
mast. See how one owner replaced the beam at
Wilkie's Sailboat Page
Consider adding built-in water
tanks, more
storage for the volume occupied and in the event of a holing thru the hull into the tank, the boat doesn't try to sink, the tank already had water in it, you just can't drink it now. See Atomvoyages link below.
Consider adding a removable inner forestay for a staysail. More sail area in light conditions, better balance in heavy conditions, staysail not as far foreward in heavy conditions, extra
rigging gives the whole
mast better support.
You will need 3 anchors:
A) main is a 25# plow/CQR or Claw/Bruce on 100-150' 1/4" chain & 200-300' 9/16" nylon 3-strand
rope with bow roller and chain pawl (chain pawl allows you to go without a windlass),
B) backup is a 15-18# Danforth type
anchor on 30' chain and 250-350' of
rope and an oversized cleat; and
C) stern/kedge
anchor is a 10# plow,
claw or Danforth on 15' of 3/16" chain and 150-200' 7/16" rope.
D) If you are feeling flush get a 40-50# fisherman/herreschoff/Luke with same
rode as B) for difficult rock and kelp situations.
A lot of the
anchor stuff you might be able to pick up at swap meets if you attend early and stay late. This will save a lot. Some of the new anchors are getting better reps than the Bruce or
CQR but have not hit the 2nd hand market yet.
You will need a small
dinghy.
Buying an inflatible is the
current general answer but it will cost you, even second hand. A hard
dinghy with oars, building one may be a more durable and economical answer if you have a place to do the work. There are various plans available for nesting dinghy's that take up a lot less deck space.
You will need to build a selfsteering
windvane. There is a recent book that includes plans or checkout
http://www.mindspring.com/~waltmur/Self-Steering/
You may want to seal some of the
storage compartments in the boat using waterproof hatches for access. This will provide floatation in the case of holing. This is discussed at
Atom Voyages | Sailing and Boat Project* Articles by James Baldwin
Make sure you have a drifter, being able to continue sailing in light air really saves on
fuel. If the main is in good shape all's it may need is a 3rd reef. Decent sails can be had from used sail dealers.
For the Cal an
outboard of 4hp would push you at 4-5kt in calm water, 6hp would get you to
hull speed in a calm, 8hp would get you hull speed with 12-18kt wind or waves against you, over 10hp is a waste of
fuel and extra weight in the stern since it won't push you any faster in a calm and in winds heavier than 18 or so the prop is going to start coming out of the water. Outboard has to be a 4-stroke, almost twice the fuel milage of a 2-stroke and a lot less pollution.
For the Triton and Cascade, get an
engine manual.
You will need a
solar panel or 2, preferably on a good mount, see above Atomvoyages for one idea. 2 or 3 new group 27 flooded
batteries or a pair or 2 of new 6v golf cart
batteries from a 2nd tier supplier would probably be adaquate if usage is limited. Evans Starzinger has intersting things to say about
batteries at
Systems.
To conserve
battery power you want flourescent fixtures in the
cabin, 1 or 2 in main & 1 in v-berth. Incadescents can remain in
head and berths. You will want a
single bulb Tricolor fixture at the masthead for sailing. At
anchor get a LED fixture should go with the
anchor ball. (
Bebi Electronics-Home of the Finest Marine LED Lighting Products on Sea (or Earth)! is one source that I have heard decent things about.) If motoring and the outboard has a generator/alternator the existing incanscents are fine, otherwise consider replacing with LED.
Limiting the amount of
electronics on the boat will help with
battery conservation, deptho (make a backup lead line), speedo, simple mounted
GPS (no chart plotter with color
screen needing be backlit all the time),
VHF, shortwave, and maybe a stero/CD player are about all you need. You may want a fan or 2 and if you locate them right they can do double duty blowing both over berths and thru the social areas of the main
cabin. If you really need a computer, get one of the netbooks, they are optimized for
low power draw to stretch their
batteries as far as possible.
Convert the
Icebox to shelves or drawers for
storage. Same with the hanging locker across from
head.
Read the Lin & Larry
Pardey Books SelfSufficient Sailor, CapableCruiser and CostConsciousCruiser.
Read Annie Hill's Voyaging on a Small
income
Read Beth Leonard's Voyager's Handbook