From these pictures of the
engine head being off, it is obvious to see that the
head gasket was blown between cylinders. There is discoloration where
coolant water and steam was escaping and made a milky mess emulsifying the
oil, probably caused by
overheating and the lack of re-torquing the head bolts after an hour of running after the last head
repair.
Also shows a lot of carbon on the other cylinders, usually because of dirty injectors or lack of air for combustion.
Suggest having the head tested for cracks on the casting, resurfacing or lapping the valve seats, which should be still good from the last top end
rebuild, check for head and block being straight and flat, (try not to resurface the head casting mating side, just clean it very well by hand with fine sandpaper). Bring those injectors to the shop also to be tested, but flush and fill them with "Gumout" carburator cleaner before bringing them.
Clean all
gasket surfaces and the piston liner lip edges on the block with a sharp tip knife. Rotate front crank clockwise to move pistons and feel with fingernails where the piston rings make a groove at the upper limit of the strokes, this should not be a pronounced groove, more visible than actually felt with fingers.
If liners look glazed, some very fine sandpaper by hand will remove the smooth glazing enough. Don't overdo it. Remove grit and clean and lube with soft rag damp with
oil or fluid.
Pour some
transmission fluid into each piston top to cover the pistons by about 1/2" deep in fluid and check that fluid level the next day to see if the rings are evenly holding most of the level you poured. (
cheap way to do a
compression test at this point of the job). Clean and lube with
transmission fluid those head studs and nuts till they turn easily by hand all the way.
When the new head gasket goes on, do not use anything on the surfaces, no oil, gasket cement or anything, very clean. Place that heavy head slowly and squarely on the gasket and screw those nuts by hand, then evenly tighten partially in the sequence required, from the center of the head first, then radiating out, then torque gradually each nut to proper torque as specified in manual.
Re-install the valve rockers and oil tubing and adjust each valve lash, then comes the cork cover gasket, etc. Do not forget that you need to remove the rocker assembly and re-torque the head bolts to specs after the first hour or so of running time!!. That's probably why this head gasket blew.
Also, now flush the
heat exchanger, the oil cooler, and the engine block and then drain well before the green
antifreeze mixture is brought to level, eliminating all air pockets as you fill.
Change engine oil and filter, run engine that first hour at varying moderate speeds while loading it by having the transmission in
gear. Let it cool off, change oil and filter a second time, re-torque head bolts in same sequence and adjust valve lash.
Guess you could change transmission oil while
cooling off engine and align the drive shaft to flange by the engine mounts and jump in over the side to cool off and clean the
propeller below.
Check
raw water strainer inlet and it's
thru hull for full flow, change
water pump impeller and when engine running again, the
water flow at
exhaust. You have read all about clean
fuel supply by now.
This is the most you can do at this time at the
dock which should eliminate most of the problems and get you guys home safely under your own engine
power. We all have good wishes for you. Keep us informed.
Re: NEED A TOW ASAP
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