I wasn't sure where to list this thread, but here I am. I am about to overhaul two multihull masts, and will be installing LED masthead nav lights with anchor lights (for use under sail, and vessels under 60 feet). I have several options and would like some feedback from anyone who has actual experience with this subject.
Option 1 is to use a conventional Aqua Signal, series 40, with Dr. L.E.D. tricolor and white LED bulbs. This option includes a strobe, though not technically legal anymore. With this option, I can change bulbs, as necessary. See: http://www.aquasignal.info/ecat/inde...bcategory_id=1
I have the Lopo light. Easy to install, great design. Have not used it, only installed it, as still in construction stage, but I am sold on it. I had an incandescent tricolor, and a seagull took it out. No chance of this with the Lopo.
I have used the Dr Led replacement bulb in my Aqua Signal Tri-color. The price is right, and powerconsumption is way down, but I can't say the light is a bright as it was with the old 25 watt incandescent bulb
I bought the Lopo light a couple of years ago, but at Sail Expo, it was less expensive than the incandescent tricolor with anchor light that West Marine was selling. Side by side, the LED's look brighter to me. They are just more directional. Not a bad thing for a nav light.
We've gone all LED's for nav and accommodation lighting. Will never have incandescent lights again! They are a lot brighter (nav lights). The cabin lights we got are a cool blue which is nice once you get used to them.
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Yours Aye! Rick ~^~^~^^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~~^~^~~^~^~^^~~^~^ "It's not the boat "you built" until you've sworn at it, bled on it, sweated over it, cried beside it and then threatened to haul the POS outside and burn it!"
Boat: Morgan 33 OutIsland, Magic and 33' offshore scott design "Cutting Edge"
Posts: 1,594
I converted all my nav lights to led the hard but cheap way. I ordered my led,s from ledsupply.com and soldered and wired them myself then bedded them in epoxy. the leds cost less than a dollar apiece and are much brighter than the originals.I tested the resistor I used on my sewing machine and it used .026 amp. This is a 15,000 mc 15 deg led. I usually use them 4 in series which puts them in the correct voltage range with no resistor. along with the nav and interior lights I mounted them all over the engine compartment pointing at all the relevant spots. I found the project much worth the effort as every milliamp counts when living aboard on the move. Also mounted a red and green as compass light with dtdp switch so I can change compass light to red or green,
I put the Lopolight masthead anchor/nav with the windex light on two years ago. It is easy to find the boat in a crowded anchorage from far away.I am very happy with it.
Make sure you get a coast guard approved light if in US
Forsailbyowner how do you know you have correct lumens from the lights?
Knottybouyz Som LEDs look brighter due to wave lenght of light.
Knottybouyz Som LEDs look brighter due to wave lenght of light.
Being color blind also doesn't help Mike! I just hope I got the red on the red side of the boat and the green on the green side!
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Yours Aye! Rick ~^~^~^^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~~^~^~~^~^~^^~~^~^ "It's not the boat "you built" until you've sworn at it, bled on it, sweated over it, cried beside it and then threatened to haul the POS outside and burn it!"
Lowest cost option and easiest for maintainance is to replace the regular globes with LED globes in the existing Aquasignal masthead lamp.
We did this plus same on deck level nav lamps.
As reported, not as bright as previous incandencent globes but bright enough. Seriously doubt any coastguard would question how many lumens(!!) as can certianly be seen from 2 miles off.
We've used this set up for 24 months with no issues over 10,000 miles and multiple countries. And of course have gained a bag of old globes to one day maybe use as spares!
JOHN
This calculator allows you to do an approximate conversion between millicandelas (or candelas) and lumens for an LED where you know the beam angle. The reason it's approximate is because the specs don't usually include information about how the luminous intensity (in candelas) was measured. This calculator is perhaps most useful in comparing the light output of LEDs with different beam angles.
To briefly explain the math the wizard does, it simply applies the conversion 1 candela = 1 lumen/steradian. To do this, it converts the beam angle you supply into a solid angle in units of steradians.
Goto: candela (millicandela) to lumen conversion wizard
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Gord May "If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"
Does anybody have any tips on mounting the Aqua Signal Series 32 LED sternlight? It's the most astonishingly fragile assembly I've ever seen in this product space, and the instructions are useless.
Am I correct in assuming that they expect this to stay properly rooted to the harsh stern environment with only the little expanding plastic bushing on one side, and nothing on the other but the friction of the wire-exit tube? Behind the gasket, it is potted; there is no mounting base (the substrate is actually very solid-feeling, but I suspect drilling an extra mounting hole is not what they had in mind). And I'm suspicious of the wire exit, which appears to have a capillary path to the interior... though when I peek inside, I suspect that's not a problem.
Short of bonding this in place with 4200, which may be the best move, am I missing some intended mounting scheme that they don't mention in their documentation?
Dr. LEd and the Aqua signal tri color masthead with anchor and strobe. The anchor light is bright and burns so little I leave it on 24/7 while out on the hook. Also seems to be very white, looks more like an incandesient for some reason. Very happy with the changes made....:-)
Does anybody have any tips on mounting the Aqua Signal Series 32 LED sternlight? It's the most astonishingly fragile assembly I've ever seen in this product space, and the instructions are useless...
Steve