Quote:
Originally Posted by Letterkenny
Interesting hearing that. I sent a note to the manufacturer asking about this and can post back when I hear. How often are you heating it via AC versus the coolant loop? The manual suggests unplugging it to avoid electrical current so maybe that is the reasoning why. I have a breaker for it as well but will likely do this to try to avoid any stray current causing corrosion. I will say that my anodes on my hull go quickly (replace a prop nut and a shaft zinc 4x a year). |
When at a
dock with shore-power [~ 12 weeks/year or so] we turn on the water heater breaker and run it full time. The rest of the time it is a combo of engine and, during extended stays in
anchorages [typical for us]- the
generator. We have not had to do or replace anything on this
Isotherm Spa water heater since installed in 2015. [We did opt for the 750W AC element vs. the 1500W FWIW.]
RE: anode depletion rates: our boat has a
galvanic isolator [on a 50A 230V AC shore-power setup] so we are well protected from external sources of stray current. Our anodes average 2-3 years between replacing [2- 1-3/4” prop shaft eggs; 1 prop nut; 1 dive-saver near
bronze strut; 2 teardrops on
rudder skeg shoe.] We use
aluminum anodes on our FRP hull mainly because we are often in glaciated [brackish] waters.
Your anode depletion rate seems accelerated to me. If you do not have I ether a
galvanic isolator [at a minimum] or an isolation transformer [best] for shore-power, I would start there to eliminate external influences.
In case any of this is useful.
Cheers, Bill
Linear Mode
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