Abaco, Bahamas in May

[MicHughV]

There are several guide books for the Abaco's and elsewhere in the B'mas, but they are all pretty much the same. I have some that are 40 years old and still use them.
You can google them and come up with at least a half dozen versions.

I don't use a chart when I'm there, just use the guide book, as the guide book is far more detailed than any chart. My guide books have a lot of pencil scribbles in them from various and sundry things I noted while there.

I got to know Steve Pavladis very well, but he passed away some years ago. He put together Guide Books for the entire Caribbean. I have all of them. I think they are quite detailed.

Each to his own though.

I think May is a good time to cross over. The nice thing about the Memory Rock passage is that it does not require you to steer such an acute angle when crossing the GS. You can go more or less go straight across from WPB and the GS current will take you to Memory Rock.

Only once did I ever have to turn back to WPB as conditions were simply untenable in the GS. Locals tell you to look at the horizon when in WPB. If you can see the horizon jumping up and down, it is likely to be very rough.

A lot of folk leave out of Ft. Pierce and come on the banks just south of Walker's Cay. Another option.

I have come in at Whale Cay several times without any problems.

Most people that visit the Abaco's tend to hang out around Marsh Harbor, GTC, Hope Town, Man-0-War, etc, but the the northern part of the chain is also very nice.
I like to spearfish and catch lobster and find the northern part to be more plentiful in this regard. Also not so many cruisers there.

I have travelled all over the world, and for me, the B'mas is the best of them all. The Abacos' are usually the first place in the B'mas most people go to.

For sure, if you go there once, you will go there again.....and again...and again...

Finally, I have this to say. I have never had a problem there. I leave my boat wide open and my dink unlocked where ever I go. A lot of first time cruisers tend to be a bit paranoid about security, but I have never once, not ever, had the slightest issues there.

[sailorboy1]

Originally Posted by MicHughV

Finally, I have this to say. I have never had a problem there. I leave my boat wide open and my dink unlocked where ever I go. A lot of first time cruisers tend to be a bit paranoid about security, but I have never once, not ever, had the slightest issues there.

Now that I think about it I have to agree with this. I have not noticed dinghies with long cables locked to the dinghy docks here in Abacos like elsewhere in the Bahamas.

[mjscottinnc]

An option, that apparently I’m the only one who has used, is clearing in at Grand and the taking a week or so to stop at the uninhabited cays between grand and Spanish. I’ve found all of them unique and picturesque, pleasantly lacking any crowds. It was a great way to ramp down and get attuned to local customs, island time, when you finally get to the sea of abaco, inhabited cays and more people. Regardless of your route There is something for everyone.

[MicHughV]

I hear ya.....I've hung out around Mangrove Cay and Great Sale for a while, surprisingly good fishing and lobstering there.
Took my first ever lobster at Mangrove Cay.
I love the NW part of the Abaco's. Few yachties ever go there and you can have the place to yourself.

One year, I was about to get off the banks near Walkers Cay when I noticed a small isolated coral head.

What the hell, I thought, I'll give it a quick look.

I get in the water and am stunned to see a coral head about the size of an armchair with 1,000's....yes, that's not a misprint...1,000's of lobsters swarming over this head, like bees around a hive, and coming towards this head from of in the distance, were several long lines of lobster walking right behind each other, all headed for this coral head.

Well, what was I do to ? In the space of about five minutes I dove down several times and I filled my icebox from top to bottom with with them.

For several days, I (and crew mate) cooked and ate lobster in every way I could think of.

I learned later that this was called a " lobster walk"...a phenomena only ever seen by a few.

In 35 year of diving, that was the only time I've ever seen it.

[MicHughV]

found an old pic of that memorable day....a bit fuzzy, but you'll get the idea...

[OldManMirage]

So I'm not trying to hijack the thread, but the OP I think got his answer and this is evolving along pretty well.

What would you experienced Bahamas veterans consider the easiest and least crowded place to come in, get checked in, and then move along to where it's nice and peaceful ? If it's head for Whale Cay and choose one of the places mentioned that's great, but if you have any other simpler ways please say so.

Sure at some point I'll want to go to Georgetown and re-stock a bit and check it out, but I'm really looking for peaceful quiet anchorages where we can swim and walk the beaches and what-not.

I'm leaning towards a West Palm Beach departure, and I'd like to by-pass the bigger/more crowded places. I'm also figuring on doing this at the start of the season, I guess end of December/beginning of January ? I probably wouldn't leave until after Christmas or I might get keel-hauled !

Help me plan my start, and if I find you there I'll buy the first round !

[MicHughV]

There is a 99.9% probability you will hook up with other cruisers.
There is a 99.9% probability any plans you've made or are thinking of making will get tossed out of the window.
So there is a 99.9% probability you will end up going to places and doing things you never expected or planned to do.
You could spend a year in the Abaco's and find something new to do every day.
Just go and the details will take care of themselves.

[MicHughV]

OldMmanMirage, on my first trip to the Abaco's I didn't have a clue and had no idea what to expect, but in WPB I hooked up with two other boats that had been there before and I kinda just tagged along like a lame duck.
Where they went, I went, and why not, they knew were they were going, and I didn't.

We eventually cleared customs in GTC, and once again, I just tagged along. They knew where to go and what to do. From my perspective, it was all simple as pie. Bahamian customs were friendly and helpful, and checking in was as smooth as could be. If they hadn't been there, the process would still be simple. Just ask a local where customs is and they will direct you there.

Every night, we'd end up having dinner on one or other boat. with off course, a rum and coke to wash it all down. We all got along great and I was much obliged to be in their company.

I was so enthralled about the experience of just being there, I didn't really care where I was, as every place was more magnificent than the next.
As far as I was concerned, I was in heaven, and it didn't matter what corner of heaven I was in.
This continued on for about 3 weeks, until their schedule and mine had to split. By this time, I had also got to know several other cruisers, and the whole cycle just started over again
By the time a month went by, I had pretty much got to know the ins and outs of cruising the Abaco's and started to strike out on my own. Surprisingly, several other boats often tagged along with me, as I was now an " experienced" Abaco cruiser....well, at least in their eyes.

You will likely have a very similar experience, so telling you where to go and what to do is kinda meaningless.

Your best agenda will be to have no agenda.

I've been kinda hogging this thread, but am endeavoring to explain to explain that my story probably mimics most others.

People living in Florida are blessed. The paradise known as the B'mas is a mere 60 miles away from WPB. No matter which route you take, no matter where you chose to check in, makes little difference.

I was also a little apprehensive on my first trip, not knowing what to expect, but was blown away by the simplicity and beauty of it all.
Interestingly, the many other cruisers there become one big family. You will see the same boat and same people in many places. I can tell you of countless examples where someone had some or other problem, and the cruising fraternity banded around to assist.

But to get back to your question. A WPB departure is a good choice. Your entry onto the banks is up to you. Most people check into West End, but I prefer the Memory Rock route and will check in at GTC or elsewhere. I've never had an issue doing this from Bahamian Customs.

Once there, where you go is a matter of choice. Most people head for Mangrove, Great Sale and then onto GTC, etc. This will place you in the "hub" of the Abaco's, where every place is within eyeshot of each other. Hang out there for a period of time until you get used to the place.

Sailing conditions are typically as sweet as it can get, with the worst being a short chop against you. Tides and currents in the Abaco's are pretty much minimal.

The guide books previously mentioned will give you preferred routes, etc. between places.

This has been a long missive. I will end here.

[clamshack]

You should know the Abacos were leveled by Hurricane Dorian in 2019. Most of the towns and settlements are still in the beginning stages of the recovery process. A few have made significant progress. Unfortunately, COVID severely delayed recovery. So be prepared to see a lot of destruction. Most, if not all, critical infrastructure has been restored.

With that being said grocery stores, restaurants and marinas have been the first to come back. What has been reconstructed is better than ever and all of the natural habitat still looks beautiful.

It's very easy cruising. Probably on par with the BVI. The weather can be less predictable in the Abacos, but May is generally one of the most settled months.

Grab the explorer chart book and Dodge guide that others have mentioned.

[michaeld]

Originally Posted by clamshack

You should know the Abacos were leveled by Hurricane Dorian in 2019. Most of the towns and settlements are still in the beginning stages of the recovery process. A few have made significant progress. Unfortunately, COVID severely delayed recovery. So be prepared to see a lot of destruction. Most, if not all, critical infrastructure has been restored.



With that being said grocery stores, restaurants and marinas have been the first to come back. What has been reconstructed is better than ever and all of the natural habitat still looks beautiful.



It's very easy cruising. Probably on par with the BVI. The weather can be less predictable in the Abacos, but May is generally one of the most settled months.



Grab the explorer chart book and Dodge guide that others have mentioned.

Clamshack, my wife and I spent 95 days in the Abacos last summer. When were you last there. Yes, many things were leveled by Dorian in 2019, but essentially everything was open for business last summer with the exception of Treasure Cay. We were a charter for the Boy Scouts of America (SeaBase in Marsh Harbour). Each week we sailed between Great Guana and Tahiti Beach, visiting Nipper's, Grabber's, Man-O-War, Hopetown, Tilloo Cay, etc. During free time we visited Little Harbour (Pete's Pub). Abaco is way beyond the beginning stages of recovery.

[OldManMirage]

Originally Posted by MicHughV

Your best agenda will be to have no agenda.

Thanks for all this, I have saved this post as text file in my notes.

But the line above is truly sage advice.

[sailorboy1]

Originally Posted by clamshack

You should know the Abacos were leveled by Hurricane Dorian in 2019. Most of the towns and settlements are still in the beginning stages of the recovery process.

Things are as recovered as they will get.

[MicHughV]

When I first got the Abaco's in 1980, the place was about as simple and as rustic as one could get. GPS was unknown. Miss Emily's Blue Beer Bar in GTC had a door laying sideways on some trestles serving as the bar counter. Miss Emily herself, pulling cold beers out of a tiny fridge on the back wall. Nippers was not there, etc, etc.

It was old style charming Abaco's. There were not many cruisers there. Mooring fields were unknown. Boats did not have a/c, and having the venerable Windbugger hanging in your rigging to keep your beer cold was the height of luxury.

There was a handful of charter boats in Marsh Harbor and Hope Town....who can still remember the Morgan OI ??

In the intervening years, things started to change. The big charter companies moved in, mooring fields popped up, new marina's, etc and the whole vibe changed in my opinion.

Then Hurricane Dorian came along and did a real number on the Abaco's, kinda cleaned the place out.

But I've been to most every island group in the B'mas, and the Abaco's remain my favorite.

To those that are planning to be there this year, you will have a blast.

[clamshack]

Originally Posted by michaeld

Clamshack, my wife and I spent 95 days in the Abacos last summer. When were you last there. Yes, many things were leveled by Dorian in 2019, but essentially everything was open for business last summer with the exception of Treasure Cay. We were a charter for the Boy Scouts of America (SeaBase in Marsh Harbour). Each week we sailed between Great Guana and Tahiti Beach, visiting Nipper's, Grabber's, Man-O-War, Hopetown, Tilloo Cay, etc. During free time we visited Little Harbour (Pete's Pub). Abaco is way beyond the beginning stages of recovery.

I’m in Hope Town now and hopefully moving south tomorrow. Like I said most of the charter crowd stuff is open.

In other places like Little Grand Cay and New Plymouth on Grand Turtle, the pace of recovery has been slow. Some people are still living in temporary structures. In other cases donations of generators have been sitting uninstalled for years. The timing of the Hurricane and COVID couldn’t have been worse.

I wasn’t sure if the poster was going to get off the beaten path at all. I just wanted to set expectations. I think it will help them have a better visit.

[OldManMirage]

I just want to say this has been a great Thread for me. Many thanks to all who participated.

It has really helped me "flesh out" somewhat of a game plan for my first run at the Bahamas, which I truly hope and plan to be the 2024 season. I know that things will change as I go through it but at least I have some idea of the what, where and when.

I will also say that downloading Navionics onto a Chromebook and really looking at the all the places is huge help. If you are thinking about it I highly recommend this action - or mapping software of your choice - and starting to look at the different areas.

Anyway, thanks again for all help and for CF community in general. And special thanks to Chris Mac who took time out from his cruising to send me multiple messages.