Cruising From Barcelona To Croatia

[Leee]

Hello Monte,

I've sailed in Croatia a couple of times and really enjoyed the place. One thing that I found was that the white wines are just fine but if you drink red, buy Spanish, French or Italian before you get to Croatia. We loaded up in Italy and there seems to be no problem taking cases in and there shouldn't be any issue at all now as I hear Croatia became a member of the EU a month ago. There are a few good reds but about 4 times the price of similar wines made elsewhere. There are however, some restauranteurs that make their own decent red wine but it is not as common as it could be. This was all about 3 or 4 years ago so the situation may have changed. Not that sailors drink mind you.

I'll be more or less following your path next year although may only get as far as Sicily in 2014. This year, since getting here from Halifax, I am content to sail in Portugal and southern Spain and will keep the boat here for the winter.

Anyone been to Tunisia or Morocco lately? Need to get out of the Schengen countries to restart the clock.

I'd like to know where you end up keeping your boat over the winter in Croatia as i will more than likely do the same in 2015.

Cheers.

[monte]

Hi Leee, currently floating around Croatia, I will update for wintering but Greece i slooking like a possiblity this year. Re Schengen, Sailing to Morocco will reset the VAT 18 month clock but not Schenghen. Schengen is strictly 90 days out, 90 in, so you would have to be in Morocco the equivalent time you want to remain in EU. Maybe a UK visa would work better for you and winter in Gibraltar.

[Navegante1105]

Hi Monte: I usually sail in the Balearics; I would suggest from Barcelona, sail to Ciudadela, in the west coast of Menorca. It is a beautifull place; I assume You are sailing with a lagoon(cat). In spain, unless You moore in a floating ball(for example Puerto Colom) in the East of Mallorca, they price the mooring by square meter, so maybe it will be a bit expensive. In may;this year, it cost Me around 50€ a day in Ciudadella(beneteau oceanis 393), although there are a lot of calas in the south of the island( two hours sail from Ciudadela) where you can anchor for free. Then You can sail east direccion until Mahon, in the esat side, the capital of the island, very nice place too. You will enjoy with these calas in the south of the island.
Then You can sail to Mallorca, where You can anchor in the many Calas in the east side of the Island. Puerto Colom, is a good place to moore and relax and do some shopping(food, water..)
Keep sailing south and spend a night or two in Cabrera Island,natural park, where You have to ask for permission to moore there; if You are looking for a virgin place,beautifull and a place to leave all your stress, that is the place.( in case You need any info for the permission, I shall be glad to give it to You).
If You have spare time, visit Ibiza and Formentera; Ibiza is more like Mallorca and Formentera is a very small island, with no green but with large splendid beaches.
See some of the pictures of the Balearics if you are interested in my profile.
I hope You spend a nice time if passing through the Balearics.
Regards, Agustin.

[Invictus69]

Originally Posted by monte

Thanks Frank, we should be in Croatia in about a month, will hang around as long as we can (when does the weather turn bad around Split?) Hopefully we can sail the area till late October then find somewhere to haul out. heading up to Greece may be an option if it saves a bucketload, but I would hope for around 20 euro/day on the hard in Croatia somewhere? I have charts for the area but thanks for the offer. Next year we will likely head toward the Greek islands as early as possible as well. Hows the weather there now? We have been anchoring around Elba the last week, 27 every day, not much wind, nice anchorages and beautiful water for swimming. Heading toward Giglio, Rome, Pontines, Capri, Aeoleans next..
Will probably buy a car in Croatia to travel to North of France and back again in 2014.

Hi, here are my two cents on Croatia.

I sailed parts of Croatia and Montenegro coast twice and will do Sicily to Istria (north Adriatic) later this month.

First the good stuff: It is probably the best coast for sailing in the Mediterranean, period.

Scenic and less busy anchorages: I would definitely suggest Bay of Kotor, the only fjord in the Adriatic worth seeing (once you are inside the inner section of the fjord is mostly motoring) and winds are not too consistent.
(N 42d 23m 08s, E 18d 32m 57s, based on Google Earth)

On your way north there is a small peninsula (Molunat) on the Croatian side which has two bays that can offer alternative protection depending on the prevailing winds.

Further north is the small town of Cavtat worth staying overnight
(N 42d 34m 55s, E 18d 12m 48s)

Last time we took the outer islands for the similar reasons to avoid overcrowded (and overpriced) places like Hvar/Brac/Korcula.

There are few quite anchorages on the northern shore of the island of Mljet.

One place that I stayed in my memory is Skrivena Luka (the Hidden Harbor) on the south coast of the island of Lastovo (N 42d 43m 46s, E 16d 52m 10s) and it has a great restaurant as well. Not much to do but it is quiet and relaxing.

Further north is the Kornati archipelago (National park) which is a separate topic.

Now the not so good stuff:
- at some locations (eg. Cavtat) they charge for anchorage in the bay as 50% of the respective docking fee (based on the LOA length) so be aware. I heard that that may be the case in other places as well.

- In addition, it is not uncommon that you are charged few times separately by few different guys (docking fee, then water/electricity fee, national parks fee etc).

- Sometime, the docking fee is decided at docking officer's discretion and there is no point arguing but is better to try to settle for lower price.

- It is advisable to call the port of call in advance and check the docking and anchorage fees as well as reserve a spot just in case. It is good always to have a plan B in case the destination port is full.

Now, since I will be my first time sailing Sicily and the southern tip of Italy, I would appreciate some tips and places worth visiting along the coast as well as some mid-Adriatic crossing tips (from Italy to Croatia) or experiences.

Enjoy!

[boatman61]

Barcelona _ Mallorca - Minorca - Sardinia - S Sicily.... after that your on yer own coz I went from Sicily to the Corinth Canal...
As for Tunisia... only been to Bizerte this year... no marina just a fishing harbour... keep a careful eye on the situation over there though... Monastir seems the popular place by all accounts.

[monte]

Heres some details from Messina to Croatia in our blog, thanks for the info, we are in Croatia now. Some posts on the Aeolians there as well, Just ask if you need any details.
Sephina: Messina to Montenegro
Monte

[jckb]

Originally Posted by Invictus69

Now, since I will be my first time sailing Sicily and the southern tip of Italy, I would appreciate some tips and places worth visiting along the coast

See
See

[Leee]

Hi Monte,
Thanks re reminder about VAT/Schengen and am aware of the issues. Hope you are enjoying Croatia as much as we did. Were you able to get up to the more northern islands?
Leee

[goboatingnow]

you could try the marina in the naturist part of Cap D'Aghe, shallow, but cheap ( ish) !!!

practice that all over tan etc!

[Katiusha]

Originally Posted by Invictus69

Now the not so good stuff:
- at some locations (eg. Cavtat) they charge for anchorage in the bay as 50% of the respective docking fee (based on the LOA length) so be aware. I heard that that may be the case in other places as well.

- In addition, it is not uncommon that you are charged few times separately by few different guys (docking fee, then water/electricity fee, national parks fee etc).

- Sometime, the docking fee is decided at docking officer's discretion and there is no point arguing but is better to try to settle for lower price.

- It is advisable to call the port of call in advance and check the docking and anchorage fees as well as reserve a spot just in case. It is good always to have a plan B in case the destination port is full.

Please note that we have found no places (except Korcula) where they still charge for anchoring. People say that it's because Croatia is part of EU now. Certainly no anchoring fees in Cavtat, Dubrovnik, Trogir, Hvar, etc.

We crossed from south Italy to Bar in July. Went across mid-Albania in hopes to find north-setting current. Didn't find it, motored most of the way. Traffic separation zone near Brindisi is BUSY. Watch out for fast ferries (Visible as SuperFast on AIS).

Maybe see you around Croatia or north Italy. Fair winds.

[Invictus69]

Originally Posted by Katiusha

Please note that we have found no places (except Korcula) where they still charge for anchoring. People say that it's because Croatia is part of EU now. Certainly no anchoring fees in Cavtat, Dubrovnik, Trogir, Hvar, etc.

This is good news and good to know. Not sure if EU membership will change things overnight but every little bit counts.

[Barra]

Originally Posted by Katiusha

Please note that we have found no places (except Korcula) where they still charge for anchoring. People say that it's because Croatia is part of EU now. Certainly no anchoring fees in Cavtat, Dubrovnik, Trogir, Hvar, etc.

Maybe try anchoring in one of their concession buoy zones and see if you get asked for fees. Certainly we had several approaches asking for anchoring fees post eu ( they werent successful but the arguments add stress to your holiday)

[AngeW]

Originally Posted by Barra

Maybe try anchoring in one of their concession buoy zones and see if you get asked for fees. Certainly we had several approaches asking for anchoring fees post eu ( they werent successful but the arguments add stress to your holiday)

We were anchored two nights in Cavtat and the second night had a very unpleasant encounter with a man on a boat who said he had the "concession" for the bay. When we refused to pay he threatened us with the police, which frightened the little kids we have on board. We ended up paying him 100 kuna, but this morning went to the harbour master in Cavtat to find the facts. Satisfyingly he says the practice is now illegal and wants us to make a complaint as a "test case". We will do that happily when we return next week.

[Barra]

Cavtat isnt even an official concession zone - was previously just a charge made by the harbour master. Good to see thats a thing of the past but there are more and more concessions being granted for buoy fields and these have their "value" protected by forcing payment for use of the buoys or anchoring in or near the area. Thats the kind of charging that still goes on as far as im aware (though happily we are now in Greece so could be a few weeks out of date)

[jckb]

The maritime authorities are very well organised in Croatia, and publish lists of the concession zones. These concession zones have also been mapped out. It is illegal to charge for anchoring outside these zones, and the authorities ask for reports if this occurs.

You'll find links to the official list of concessions in the "Moorings" paragraph of theof my website.