Merged LiFeYPO4 1000Ah Winston prismatic cells and all electric galley...

[CatNewBee]

Originally Posted by arsenelupiga

you are the best !!

and i would like to copy you again.

cnb, can electonic imbecile like me make use of rasberryPi ? I do know software programming though and can pick up any language or whatever. If yes, where would I start ?

I would love to use this as chartplotter, AP, Victron interface, and whatever else is possible and realistic.

The RaspberryPi was originaly developed as a toy for kids to learn electronics and programming. As Arduino, Beaglebone (this was also used and downsized to more economic boards by Victron as a base for the Venus headless boxes) and all the other there is plenty of software and hardware around with tutorials for quick results.

I would say, buy a starter kit first, you not need all of it really, but it is a good starting point. It usually comes with a USB shore charger with switch, the raspi board, completly ready to use, a plastic case to protect the circuit, some small heat sinks you need to stick on the chips, a small fan and a 32GB SD card with raspbean noobs preinstalled, then a HDMI to micro HDMI cable. You need only a monitor and a computer mouse/keyboard and can already run this thing as a linux PC. You can use all USB stuff with it, regular USB Sticks are good as external storage. However, the Pi is very weak on the USB ports, if you want to connect more power hungry gear, like harddisks and usb monitors you need a powered USB Hub.

An alternative is to use it headless, without keyboard, mouse and monitor at all, then you need only a notebook or pc with a VNC remote client for the graphic UI, or a putty /SSH console to get to the shell. This is for the more advanced users, it is trickier to configure it completely without first attaching a monitor and a keyboard, but doable.

Installing software is like any linux with the included package manager software, openCpn works out of the box.

I use a usb WiFi dongle from Yachtdevices hooked up to the SeaTalkNG to get all the nautical data to all devices on board, so no additional hardware and software needed for that (alternative signal k adapter to the backbone...) .

[spvisd]

Originally Posted by CatNewBee

I use a 7" touch screen hdmi / usb display 1024x600 from Amazon, I also had a 13" usb powered hdmi full hd touch screen on it, it workex out of the box., the 7" needed a configuration change.

I can do a diff, but it is still work in progress, also added some libraries by copy & paste from raspbean for the raspy interfaces i2c and 1wire and installed the piserial python stuff, played around with other mysql and python3, all not included in the image from victron.

I can copy you the python and qml scripts when they are ready and tested (at the moment there are some quick hard coded fixes that need attention first when running on other environments, like adapter discovery by name for the REC FDDI Adapter and exclusion of it to the regular Victron processing). I am still on the beginning of the modifications. I want to add a local logging database and some history charts for offline use, some pages for temperatures of the fridges, tank sensors and weather data history (pressure, humidity and temperature) plus wireless remote sensor support.

Regarding the connection issues, not sure if the original unit has LAN and WiFi, but on the raspi I had the same issue, because they add the default route to the LAN port when LAN and WLAN are both connected, and LAN goes to Raynet HS isolated boat network without internet access. You can configure the IP parameters manually to prevent this from happening.

Impressive as always!

[CatNewBee]

Not bad, 13.6V / 100A, full power today.

[CatNewBee]

So, my REC is now integrated in the Venus / CCGX RaspberryPi system via rs485, with online readings and settings. Needs some polishing, dedugging and testing, but works.

This lockdown is great for such projects if you cannot sail or walk around...

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by CatNewBee

So, my REC is now integrated in the Venus / CCGX RaspberryPi system via rs485, with online readings and settings. Needs some polishing, dedugging and testing, but works.

This lockdown is great for such projects if you cannot sail or walk around... Attachment 211310Attachment 211311Attachment 211312Attachment 211313

yep and i am getting several extra jobs as a result .
My company is considered essential in Washington state I do repairs on fishing boats.

[CatNewBee]

https://medium.com/@juantellez64/fir...n-58c1e14d867a

OMG, really sad story. Electric may be dangerous, but hopefully wont blow you out. So happy to removed all propane stuff when I read such stories. Seems to be a big issue on older boats, lots of discussions on FB about it.

[aybabtme]

Yeah our galley is CNG and it's hard to procure. Don't want go replace it with propane, but I'll need more solar to make an electric galley work as a daily option (we cook a lot).

[CatNewBee]

Originally Posted by aybabtme

Yeah our galley is CNG and it's hard to procure. Don't want go replace it with propane, but I'll need more solar to make an electric galley work as a daily option (we cook a lot).

For expedition vessels there are diesel stove options, a generator can also help. Multihulls have more realestate for solar, so what we have installed is sufficient for the summer and warm climates / bluewater. The genny can help in long bad weather and heat the boat, we intent to add a forced air diesel heater as a more efficient option for higher lattitudes.

But we will definitely avoid LPG on board.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by CatNewBee

https://medium.com/@juantellez64/fir...n-58c1e14d867a

OMG, really sad story. Electric may be dangerous, but hopefully wont blow you out. So happy to removed all propane stuff when I read such stories. Seems to be a big issue on older boats, lots of discussions on FB about it.

the big issue I saw in this sad story is they had been fighting with a propane leak.
If my system is not operating exactly as it should nothing would be happening on the boat in till the issue had been corrected . Any fuel is a potential bomb so never take chances.

And yes I do pressure check my system semi annually. Also I shut off the solenoid every time I'm not using the stove . There is a reason for the solenoid switch being mounted in the galley.

[CatNewBee]

Solenoids are a US thing, in EU not very common. You have to manually close the valve at the bottle after use. Also there are regulations how often to let the system be inspected by a certified pro (at least for RV use, you get a inspection badge on the outside, intervall every second year), boats have similar maintenance times, and all hoses, valves and the regulator have to be replaced at least every 10 years, no matter what condition they are.

[hzcruiser]

Originally Posted by CatNewBee

https://medium.com/@juantellez64/fir...n-58c1e14d867a

OMG, really sad story. Electric may be dangerous, but hopefully wont blow you out. So happy to removed all propane stuff when I read such stories. Seems to be a big issue on older boats, lots of discussions on FB about it.

Yes, it is very sad! Two lifes destroyed in a split second...


We all know you shouldn't mess with any type of fuel, and gas certainly has a history of killing people. If you've got enough solar to avoid it altogether, good for you!

[aybabtme]

Originally Posted by CatNewBee

For expedition vessels there are diesel stove options, a generator can also help. Multihulls have more realestate for solar, so what we have installed is sufficient for the summer and warm climates / bluewater. The genny can help in long bad weather and heat the boat, we intent to add a forced air diesel heater as a more efficient option for higher lattitudes.

But we will definitely avoid LPG on board.

We're not an expedition vessel, but I'd agree with you on the strategy: max out solar and then add a genny for supplemental power. I think everything can be electric from there on, with only diesel as fuel.

I'm not going to add a genny on this boat, no space for it and I don't expect to keep this boat long enough to make it worth it. Instead I'm experimenting with adding solar in esoteric ways (as in, trying to figure out how to make my own custom sized flexible panels).

[BetterDays 2020]

Originally Posted by CatNewBee

that was the original design.

there are 2 charge relays in series. the first one next to the plus bar disconnects everything charging as last line of defense, now programmed to 3.75V cut off cell voltage. it will never cut in normal operation.

The second relay is operated by the BMV and can be configured to your liking based on calculated SOC.


The new design, not fully tested and explained yet in the thread, has a signal wire from the opto coupler output relay to both, the Victron Quattro and the Victron SmartSolar controller to stop charging gracefully if one cell exceedes 3.65V considered 100% SOC. This can happen on high current charging when a cell gets out of balance because of inner resistance variations. The BMS reports differences of up to 0.035 mOhm between the cells. But this could also be a result of conductivity variations on the poles.

I have observed this on my battery with balanced cells (difference 3...4mV) on a small current, but out of balance on high charge currents of 250A and more of up to 30-40mV between the highest and lowest cell. Usually I stop charging at 14.2V, or 3.55V. The opto-coupler signal would shut the chargers without disconnecting the bus. Some solar controller do not like it to be disconnected by brute force from the battery when under full load. You can also use the opto coupler signal to disconnect the solar panels from the controller instead disconnecting the battery if your controller does not have a remote control input.

Regarding the isolators, they are in place as original, only the house bank wire was cut off by the solenoid controlled by the BMV. The starter battery wiring remained untouched.

CatNewBee. Thank you for taking the time to meticulously document your set-up and provide real-time updates it is very much appreciated. In March I purchased a 2013 Lagoon 400 S2. I really like the system you have designed. I’m interested in reproducing it for my boat, however, with eight 700ah Winston cells in a 12v configuration.

I know you have mentioned in a previous post you don’t like parallel cells systems. However, because we are planning on being away from civilization for long periods I would like to have a bit more redundancy. I was thinking about 8 Winston 700ah cells in either a 4S2P or a 2P4S configuration. I like the 2P4S for the reason if one cell goes bad I should be able to easily take that group of cells out of the system, however, this arrangement complicates the BMS configuration as I'm not sure if you can just easily add a second REC ABMS to share the management. If I go the 4S2P route then I'm not really measuring each cell voltage. What are your thoughts on this?

I have read through this post from start to end, you mention you have made a few changes since originally posting the diagrams. Do you have revised drawings for the changes you made? Are you happy with these changes?

Thanks again,

[CatNewBee]

If you parallel the cells first and then connect them in series, you have a battery made of 1400Ah cells, you can then use the setup and programming as is, if one cell is foul, the cell pair will show degraded performance or errors, you have then to disassemble the pack and measure the cells individually to find out which one is faulty.

If you buld two independent batteries, you need almost everything twice, two bms, interfaces, shunts. You will not have a separate charge and loads bus, because the batteries can be both, charge and loads to each other. So the configuration is then similar to drop ins, there is only one solenoid per battery, that disconnects it no matter if the reason is HVP of LVP or Temp issues. There is a programming for that. You also have to consider the impact or handling of digiral outputs or CAN bus communication upstream to Victron inverters if you want to use this to early disconnect charging or load (what to do if one battery signals but the other is fine). Digital outputs can be combined by logic AND or OR, but you have to think about the impact on the battery too, because if you signal stop charge, and use AND, charging wont be stopped. Makes things a little more complicated, but doable.

Regarding my changes, I have not changed my curciut yet except for slightly lowrr absorption voltage and higher absorption time for balancing. But I want to change the solar controller management slightly that way by replacing the relay on the optocoupler charge path with one with 2 contacts and using the extra contact as remote switch for the solar controller to force it off when one cell reaches stop charge conditions, and keeping the solenoid as HVP.

Not a big deal, and not urgend. The intention is to protect the solar controller in case the battery protection disconnects the charge bus under load (what never happens in normal operation, but may happen when you manually turn off the battery for maintenance, firmware update etc. ), I just pull the plug first when working on the system or turn it off in the app first.

[BetterDays 2020]

Originally Posted by CatNewBee

I used an universal prototype board, and a IP67 case with clear lid to see the status, nothing special. You can of course produce a nice printed circuit board, but for this few items it was not worth the effort. I put it in a large case simply to ease the access to all the wires (10 from the BMS, 2 power supply, 20 for the solenoids, 3 from the BMV, 4 to the Quattro). Attachment 207511Attachment 207512

Thank you, CatNewBee for you quick response to my last enquiry. It was very informative.

Now I’m trying to understand your Interface. It is taking me way way back to grade 9 electronics/electricity. As such I have a couple more questions I hope you can answer:

1) I’m a little confused on how this drawing https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...0&d=1527494794 relates to this drawing https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...1&d=1527875095 as the “from charge bus” looks to be on both the ML-RBS on the BMV712 and the ML-RBS for the BMS CHG. Then it also looks like the BMV712 drops the Quattro loads out on UVP. Are both of these drawing correct if so what is the relation?

2) Referring to your diagram https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...1&d=1527875095 unfortunately the resolution on my computer screen is not clear enough for me to enlarge and expand the image to be able to easily read the values you have labeled.

2a) Could you please advise on the two components labeled D1 and D2 (S9013T1) . Are these components all in one chip? Or is it separate parts? I have Googled S9013T1 and the information given lacks details. Would you have more details on them and where or how I can go about for searching for more details on them?

2b) Same diagram resisters R1, R2, R9 and R12 can you confirm these are simple 15 Ω resisters? I can make out that resisters R3, R4, R5 and R6 are 1k5 Ω. And resistors R7 and R10 I believe they are 2k Ω. However, I don’t see resistors R8 and R11 on the diagram, Am I missing them somewhere or do they not exist?