LiFePO4 reference diagram, Alternator version

[krid2000]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

You have a choice to put it either in the positive or negative conductor assuming you already have a fuse in the positive conductor. That’s why it’s better to be put in the negative conductor because this also blocks any DC ground current through a circuit formed by deployed anchor, chain and windlass metal parts to batteries

I'm planning the install right now. The BSS site's diagrams for the 7713 show only switching the positive side. Can it also switch the negative side and how? Would it work with a 7700?

I'd like to use an auto-release version because I have on/off switches on my electrical panel that I could reuse. Also, I'd like to switch both positive and negative sides in parallel with an RBS an each side.

I could also use one of their solenoids. Same problem - the diagrams only show switching the 12V side.

Thanks!
Dirk

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by krid2000

I'm planning the install right now. The BSS site's diagrams for the 7713 show only switching the positive side. Can it also switch the negative side and how? Would it work with a 7700?

I'd like to use an auto-release version because I have on/off switches on my electrical panel that I could reuse. Also, I'd like to switch both positive and negative sides in parallel with an RBS an each side.

I could also use one of their solenoids. Same problem - the diagrams only show switching the 12V side.

Thanks!
Dirk

Can you explain why you want what you want? My reference diagrams show the way, all fact and proven daily in many installations.

Yes, the RBS works; it’s contacts don’t care what they switch
No, you don’t need to switch both conductors
Yes, auto release can work but I don’t recommend it

[krid2000]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Can you explain why you want what you want? My reference diagrams show the way, all fact and proven daily in many installations.

I'd like to at least switch the ground side as I've noticed increased prop & shaft zinc wear since installing windlass & chain and anchoring out for a couple of months. I suspect stray currents because of potential differences between "windlass ground" and "engine ground" due to my boat's battery location. Longer story, but that's why I'd like to switch the ground side.

The 12V side I'd like to switch as I don't want 12V permanently active on the windlass foot switch and the wireless windlass garage door opener that I use. That's of lesser importance to me though, but while I'm at it I might just install switches on both sides. I currently have a manual switch on the 12V side in the V-berth, which is annoying as, well, it's not remote.

Thanks!
Dirk

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by krid2000

I'd like to at least switch the ground side as I've noticed increased prop & shaft zinc wear since installing windlass & chain and anchoring out for a couple of months. I suspect stray currents because of potential differences between "windlass ground" and "engine ground" due to my boat's battery location. Longer story, but that's why I'd like to switch the ground side.

The 12V side I'd like to switch as I don't want 12V permanently active on the windlass foot switch and the wireless windlass garage door opener that I use. That's of lesser importance to me though, but while I'm at it I might just install switches on both sides. I currently have a manual switch on the 12V side in the V-berth, which is annoying as, well, it's not remote.

Thanks!
Dirk

Yes, that is the reason I put the switch in the negative conductor. No, you don’t have 12V permanently active on a switch if you only switch the negative conductor. Always keep in mind that the only thing a switch does is interrupt a circuit, it doesn’t matter where. The windlass will not be powered, nor will the remote control as long as you don’t sneak another negative conductor in somehow. If you did then remove that and use the main negative conductor that is switched

[krid2000]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Yes, that is the reason I put the switch in the negative conductor.

Ok, thanks!

Now I'm deciding if I'll use a 7700 or just one of their solenoids for the negative side. The latter seems to have a way simpler wiring, and I could use it with an existing (non-momentary) switch on my panel.

Dirk

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by krid2000

Ok, thanks!

Now I'm deciding if I'll use a 7700 or just one of their solenoids for the negative side. The latter seems to have a way simpler wiring, and I could use it with an existing (non-momentary) switch on my panel.

Dirk

I prefer to also have manual operation in case something fails, so for 12V you would use the 7713 and for 24V the 7717 with your existing switches. But you will pay much more because the 7700 and 7702 are much more popular, plus they allow operation from multiple locations by simply connecting switches (or relay contacts) in parallel.

[krid2000]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

I prefer to also have manual operation in case something fails, so for 12V you would use the 7713 and for 24V the 7717 with your existing switches. But you will pay much more because the 7700 and 7702 are much more popular, plus they allow operation from multiple locations by simply connecting switches (or relay contacts) in parallel.

It seems like the current prices are almost the same, so I opted for the 7713. Will report back when installed!

Thanks again,
Dirk

[krid2000]

Originally Posted by krid2000

It seems like the current prices are almost the same, so I opted for the 7713. Will report back when installed!

FYI I just got an answer from Blue Sea Systems tech support if I can switch the negative side with the 7713:

Not with the 7713. You can switch negative with the 7700.

HTH,
Dirk

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by krid2000

FYI I just got an answer from Blue Sea Systems tech support if I can switch the negative side with the 7713:

HTH,
Dirk

You asked the wrong question. The control switch, in your switch panel, must switch the positive conductor to control the RBS. The main RBS contact does not care at all what it is connected to, it even works completely disconnected. There is no electrical connection between the main contacts and the control logic.

So if you don’t understand this, then you have to decide who to believe

[krid2000]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

You asked the wrong question. The control switch, in your switch panel, must switch the positive conductor to control the RBS. The main RBS contact does not care at all what it is connected to, it even works completely disconnected. There is no electrical connection between the main contacts and the control logic.

So if you don’t understand this, then you have to decide who to believe

Hmmm... I have both coming in over the next few days and will do tests. I'd like the 7713 if possible over their solenoid because of the manual override capabilities. Will report back!

Dirk

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by krid2000

Hmmm... I have both coming in over the next few days and will do tests. I'd like the 7713 if possible over their solenoid because of the manual override capabilities. Will report back!

Dirk

That’s great and how I test it. Simply use a power supply and the switch without even connecting anything to the main contacts.

You should be able to find posts by me on this forum about these switches. I recently tested required voltage levels for controlling the momentary type, which was just 5V. Note that the control cable that comes out of those has a +VDC 24 hour wire, which needs the rated voltage, i.e. either 12V or 24V, but the orange and brown wires only require 5V for the switch to work. This means that the 24V version, with 24V on the +VDC wire, works with 12V on the control wires as well as 24V.

[krid2000]

Originally Posted by krid2000

Hmmm... I have both coming in over the next few days and will do tests. I'd like the 7713 if possible over their solenoid because of the manual override capabilities. Will report back!

Ok, I just tested the 7713 and I can confirm that it does NOT work with only the control voltage. The main IN contact needs a positive 12V for the unit to work. Also, the manual override won't latch ON without that 12V on the main IN.

I'll be going with their solenoid now :-)

HTH
Dirk

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by krid2000

Ok, I just tested the 7713 and I can confirm that it does NOT work with only the control voltage. The main IN contact needs a positive 12V for the unit to work. Also, the manual override won't latch ON without that 12V on the main IN.

I'll be going with their solenoid now :-)

HTH
Dirk

Wow. Lack of that separate +VDC line didn’t feel good already. Good that you could test this!

The 7700/7702 are far superior anyway. I love the feedback via the LED to show if the switch is engaged or not in combination with the momentary switch. It allows for perfect control from a microcontroller even when it is manually switched.

[krid2000]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Wow. Lack of that separate +VDC line didn’t feel good already. Good that you could test this!

Yes, I was initially getting suspicious because in some places BSS lists a low mA consumption in the OFF position - at first I thought this might just be the LED in the switch. But thinking about it now - they also list a ~7A switching current, but only recommend a minimum 2A fuse for the positive control line. Makes sense now!

Anyways, I have my solution for now!

Dirk

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by krid2000

Yes, I was initially getting suspicious because in some places BSS lists a low mA consumption in the OFF position - at first I thought this might just be the LED in the switch. But thinking about it now - they also list a ~7A switching current, but only recommend a minimum 2A fuse for the positive control line. Makes sense now!

Anyways, I have my solution for now!

Dirk

So how are you going to control it? Can you put the Contura switch that comes with the RBS in your panel? It is a really nice switch…