Newfoundland advice

[SarahBeth]

Greetings all,

My husband and I plan to cross from Nova Scotia to Newfoundland this summer (August), and to visit some of the "Out villages" that can only be reached by boat. Usually in situations like this, I take along small gifts for kids - these can be anything from pencils to frisbees to books. Does anyone have any ideas for what might be the best gifts to take?

I'm also always interested in people's experiences with a place that is new to me - so any Newfoundland tips are most welcome!

--Sarah Beth on S.V. Winnedumah

[Kenomac]

Make sure you have a good working radar onboard for the fog.

[SarahBeth]

Definitely!

Do you happen to know whether black flies/mosquitoes are a problem in August? I've read that they are worst in the early summer - and since I am very allergic, I try to avoid them when I can.

Thanks!

[Shoalcove]

Reference the black flies and mosquitoes; I’ve hiked in Gros Morne National Park during early September a few years ago and they were abundant a couple days!

[rognvald]

Sarah,
Warm clothes/foul weather gear is a must since the temperature variances are considerable. I have all the charts of Nova Scotia needed from our trip that I would be willing to sell at a much-reduced price and they are in new condition. Let me know. We'll be back from our cruise in about ten days. Good luck and safe sailing . . . Rognvald

[Mike OReilly]

We’re currently based in Corner Brook, just south of Gros Morne. Sailed down from the Great Lakes a couple of seasons ago. I haven’t yet done a lot of exploring of the island (perhaps this year), but it’s not my impression that the kids here are lacking stuff. They’d probably be happier with money if you’re interested in giving stuff away.

It is a stunningly beautiful area. Fog is serious. Weather and seas can get tough at times. I found it generally warmer than I expected. Water temperatures were into the upper teens (Celsius) in August in the Bay of Islands and off the west coast. There were extended periods when it was too hot (for me), but yes, it can also get cold, and good foulies are a must. Bugs are worse early in the season. Last season I don’t recall them being an issue much past July, but I didn’t do a lot of trekking inland.

[AA3JY]

Taking the Bras D’ Or Lakes route or off shore? Stopping off at St. Pierre/Miquellon..?

[Seymore]

Originally Posted by SarahBeth

My husband and I plan to cross from Nova Scotia to Newfoundland this summer (August), and to visit some of the "Out villages" that can only be reached by boat. Usually in situations like this, I take along small gifts for kids - these can be anything from pencils to frisbees to books. Does anyone have any ideas for what might be the best gifts to take?

Ask your local Consulate what to take. They'll know what to tell you.

[GordMay]

Newfoundland has been a province of Canada, since 1949. Although we mainlanders may joke* about “goofy Newfies”, they really are part of the first world. Their kids don’t need “uplifting” gifts, so give them anything you’d offer your local hometown kids. Be discrete, though (“want a candy, little girl?”)

* A newfie was having a hard time attracting women at the beach, so he decided to ask his friend the lifeguard for advice.
"It's dem big baggy swimming trunks, my son. Dey're years outta style. Yer best bet is to grab yeself a pair of Speedos--about two sizes too small, and drop a fist-sized potato down inside 'em. I'm telling ye, man.. .ye'll have all de babes ye wants!"
The following weekend, the newfie hit the beach with his new Speedos and his fist-sized potato. Everybody he walked past immediately covered their faces and started gagging.
The newfie went back to the lifeguard and said, "I did what ye said, but it's sitll not working."
"Lard-Tunderin' Jeezus b'y!" said lifeguard, "the potato goes in the front!"

[Benz]

I second what others have said: Newfoundland is prosperous and the kids have no need of colored pencils or crayons or the other gifts so needed in third world countries. It's kind of a reversal of cruising in the 3rd world where instead of coming to you to ask for stuff, the people come to you to see if you need anything. I've never been given more free seafood and garden veggies and rides to everywhere than in Newfoundland.
I'd suggest laying in a good supply of chocolate bars and other sweets, and sharing a bite with them if they come over to say hello.

[Marinetech]

Originally Posted by Benz

I second what others have said: Newfoundland is prosperous and the kids have no need of colored pencils or crayons or the other gifts so needed in third world countries. It's kind of a reversal of cruising in the 3rd world where instead of coming to you to ask for stuff, the people come to you to see if you need anything. I've never been given more free seafood and garden veggies and rides to everywhere than in Newfoundland.
I'd suggest laying in a good supply of chocolate bars and other sweets, and sharing a bite with them if they come over to say hello.

Being a Cruising Newfoundlander, I agree with the statement that Ben has made. You will never be stuck for a ride to get fuel or provisions. If you don't get a ride you maybe offered a vehicle to drive when you are in the town.


Byron

[Mike OReilly]

Absolutely. Newfoundlanders give visiting cruisers far more than they would ever want. When we arrived in Corner Brook we immediately had the loan of one car, and the offer of three others. We’ve continued to benefit from the kindness of our new neighbours. They are always to lend a hand, or lift a glass. The most valuable thing you can bring is an open and friendly attitude.

And just to reinforce … Newfoundland is not some 3rd-world country. You will not have flocks of youngsters amazed at the wonders of modern cruising boats, or the gifts they may bring. A good and generous nature, a beer and a good yarn, will get you further with these grand folk than spreading around a few trinkets.

BTW, be careful of the “Newfie” term. Most Newfoundlanders I’ve met view this as a slightly derogatory term. I’m careful not to use it now.

[rognvald]

I want this comment to be taken in the best possible light with no sarcasm intended: Canada is not a Third World country irrespective of province. Bringing trinkets to the natives is, in my opinion, an odd notion. In our transit of the St. Lawrence River, last summer, we were shown exceptional generosity and sincere kindness by the locals--especially in the French provinces. Enjoy your trip. Canadians are a warm and friendly people. Good luck and safe sailing--Rognvald

[GordMay]

And don't forget to kiss the cod, and Screetch-in.
"Long may your big jib draw!"

[hpeer]

Originally Posted by SarahBeth

Greetings all,

My husband and I plan to cross from Nova Scotia to Newfoundland this summer (August), and to visit some of the "Out villages" that can only be reached by boat. Usually in situations like this, I take along small gifts for kids - these can be anything from pencils to frisbees to books. Does anyone have any ideas for what might be the best gifts to take?

I'm also always interested in people's experiences with a place that is new to me - so any Newfoundland tips are most welcome!

--Sarah Beth on S.V. Winnedumah

A couple of things struck me in your post: crossing in August and “out villages” that can only be reached by boat.

So with that in mind there are only 3 “out ports” meeting your description within reasonable range for an August departure. They are on the South coast: Grey River, Francious and Mccullam (I think?, not visited.). Francious is pronounced “Franc Way” - I have been corrected. There is also Grant Bruit (Grand Brit) but that was shut down some years ago. There is also Ramea Island in the same vicinity.

When I was there a daily ferry ran a return trip from Francious to Grey River to Burgeo. There was also a ferry making one or two daily trips to Ramea.

Charts are accurate but may have an unknown datum, your GPS can be off by up to 1/2 mile. I have experienced this in Grey River and Francious, and presume it is true for Ramea. There are various off lying dangers (“sunkers”) East of Ramea.

Fog can be extremely heavy, zero visibility, radar is a NECESSITY. If you run up a fjord you often run out of the fog once inland a mile or two. Heat, while not essential, is desirable. I got stuck in Burgeo for a few days of constant drizzle in July. DAMN cold.

Grey River lies in a fjord very worth exploring. Francious is in its own pocket, not a true fjord, and can experience stiff winds even though it appears sheltered. Can be hard to find dockage, anchorage is deep and foul. I picked up some old sails or something on my anchor and drug, nearly coming to grief. Hare Bay fjord (one of 3 Hare Bays in Newfoundland) lies just East of Francious and is well wort a day or two visit. In fjords try to anchor out 100’ or more, the flies/mosquitos have limited range.

It would be an absolute crime to do this trip and not make St. Pierre/Miquelon. A truly French experience. The only suitable harbor is St Pierre, and it’s a good one, just don't wander out of channels, rock garden! Miquelon Harbor is very tiny, no maneuvering room or dockage, entrance was foul with aquaculture gear. You can do a day tourist tour of Miquelson via zodiac, worth it, lunch included. In St Pierre take the ferry to the old town abandoned in the 1960’s. You may have to ask, I don’t recall it being well advertised, or if so only in French. Make sure you visit the old school house museum. Wonderful, one class room is untouched.

My suggested route would be:
Enter the Bras d’Or at St Peters. Call ahead to confirm lock opening schedule.
Transit the lakes, can be done in a long day or spend a month.
Exit at Great Bras d’Or, DO NOT run out on a neap current with a NE wind.
Make for St Pierre, 120-140 miles, overnight.
Check back into Canada at Grand Banks, Port au Basque does not have Customs.
Then do the South coast.
You can leave from Burgeo and run straight to Halifax with good wind - rare. Or make for North Sydney. Or reverse through the Bra d’Or Lakes.
If doing the latter a nice diversion is to sail from St Peters to Canso, on the West side of the straights, and there is an inside passage that runs through the forest. Narrow but I’ve done it with 5’4” and not touched. Neat to see seals in a forest setting.

Good luck.

P.S. If you want to visit REMOTE villages try the Quebec Cote Nord. There are about 8 villages on a ferry line that makes one return trip a week.