Yacht Instrument wiring

[Geek_Guy]

Thanks for the links.
Pace Group doesn't stock # 16 with over 6 connectors, nor any #18. I need 9 connectors.

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by wingless

Hopefully the ammeter is really a voltmeter w/ a specified local shunt.

Sigh! Yes it is a voltmeter.

I have an ammeter installed on the switch panel with a "a specified local shunt". Wiring that up is on the list of things to do (I'm currently doing the plumbing work on the toilet/holding tank and that is not as easy as it seems)

I've learned to do one thing at a time.........(It can be soul destroying to do otherwise)

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by belizesailor

Wow, 40 pins?!

Ribbon cable would concern me.

My ribbon is about X12


I've tried X4 times to complete this post. I give up.


What a stuff up........

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by belizesailor

Wow, 40 pins?!

Ribbon cable would concern me.

My ribbon cable is only X12 and similar to the one pictured (which had 40 wires?)

The number of alarms quickly add up and could include:

• Bilge X3
• Engine Water Temp
• Exhaust water temp
• Inlet raw water pressure
• Engine Oil Pressure
• Gear Box ?
• Gas alarm
• Fire alarm
• Surveillance alarm

TOTAL 11 ALARMS

The lights are tiny and inexpensive, The ribbon cable is hidden behind the "carpet" head-liner.

I'd be interested to know why you say "Ribbon cable would concern me". Maybe I'd agree with you but I can't think of a better alternative.

[belizesailor]

Thats an awful lot of hardwired alarms. Have you considered making this a network interface? Sure would be much cleaner.

Ribbon cable runs are typically very short, like a controller to a device inside a desk top PC. Engine to control panel is much longer with lots of twists, turns, tight spaces...not the best for a wide flat small wire gauge cable. Also I dont see any practicall way to make a ribbon cable edge connector water proof.

[coopec43]

"Thats an awful lot of hardwired alarms. Have you considered making this a network interface? Sure would be much cleaner".

I don't know what you are saying.

I had planned to use one alarm/buzzer/siren but lights to indicate why the alarm went off. If I have a siren for each fault it would not be practical. Am I on the wrong track?

There will be cable from each sensor to the fuse/switchboard where I would mount the alarm buzzer. The ribbon would not extend to the motor.

The ribbon only needs to be 4ft long and I already have it. The ribbon will be attached on the underside of a fiberglass/sandwich deck. If I worried about it getting wet I would cover it with an adhesive plastic strip/tape. (I don't know how it could get wet!)

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by coopec43

... There will be cable from each sensor to the fuse/switchboard where I would mount the alarm buzzer. The ribbon would not extend to the motor...

The engine "sensors" (senders) are on the engine; each one in a different location.

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by coopec43

"Thats an awful lot of hardwired alarms. Have you considered making this a network interface? Sure would be much cleaner".

I don't know what you are saying.

I had planned to use one alarm/buzzer/siren but lights to indicate why the alarm went off. If I have a siren for each fault it would not be practical. Am I on the wrong track?

There will be cable from each sensor to the fuse/switchboard where I would mount the alarm buzzer. The ribbon would not extend to the motor.

The ribbon only needs to be 4ft long and I already have it. The ribbon will be attached on the underside of a fiberglass/sandwich deck. If I worried about it getting wet I would cover it with an adhesive plastic strip/tape. (I don't know how it could get wet!)

Its on a boat...it can get wet...it will find a way. At the very least, exposure to humid, salty air.

A single alram with "idiot" lights is fine. Thats the way most engine controls are set up, but normally both the alarm and lights are at the engine control panel where you are likely to hear/see them. Do you plan to put them below at the breaker panel?

However, gauges in conjunction with alarms lights are mo' betta'. This way you can see trends (engine iq getting hotter, oil pressure is dropping...). An alarm/Idiot light just goes off when there is already a problem. A gauge allows you to see that train a comin' and head it off at the pass.

Re cables. Not sure I understand. Do you plan to run individual sensor wires from the engine to an junction box of some type where you connect to ribbon cable, then ribbon cable to breaker panel?

Re network. You could connect all the wires for sensors/alrams/gauges to a control box in/near the engine room, the control box then activates alarms/gauges/lights over a single cable network connection or even wireless. Cleaner and expandable, esp if you plan to have a lot of lights/alarms as it sounds like you do...way easier to expand too.

[belizesailor]

Related thread:

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...8&share_type=t


Small wires - alternative to Butt connector

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by GordMay

The engine "sensors" (senders) are on the engine; each one in a different location.

The engine sensors are on the engine and in a different lo0cation! WOW! I didn't know that!



I'll be taking the cables from each of the senders (engine/exhaust/rudder angle/tacho) and bringing them together into a flexible conduit and then routed to to their respective instruments mounted in the instrument binnacle.

[coopec43]

Its on a boat...it can get wet...it will find a way. At the very least, exposure to humid, salty air.

The wires are insulated so hopefully they can handle the environment

A single alram with "idiot" lights is fine. Thats the way most engine controls are set up, but normally both the alarm and lights are at the engine control panel where you are likely to hear/see them. Do you plan to put them below at the breaker panel?

The alarm buzzer is loud enough to be heard 15 meters from the yacht. The warning lights will be mounted beside the instruments in the instrument binnacle. It would be nice to think another boaty might "raise the alarm"with Marina Management if they heard the alarm. It might also deter intruders trying to break-in to the yacht.


However, gauges in conjunction with alarms lights are mo' betta'. This way you can see trends (engine iq getting hotter, oil pressure is dropping...). An alarm/Idiot light just goes off when there is already a problem. A gauge allows you to see that train a comin' and head it off at the pass.

The thread title should indicate I plan to have instruments.

As I stated earlier in this thread I plan to have a tacho, voltmeter, water temp and oil pressure gauges


Re cables. Not sure I understand. Do you plan to run individual sensor wires from the engine to an junction box of some type where you connect to ribbon cable, then ribbon cable to breaker panel?

Individal wires from each sensor to the alarm mounted in the fuse/switch panel then ribbon wire to the instrument bninacle to switch the appropriate light on

Re network. You could connect all the wires for sensors/alrams/gauges to a control box in/near the engine room, the control box then activates alarms/gauges/lights over a single cable network connection or even wireless. Cleaner and expandable, esp if you plan to have a lot of lights/alarms as it sounds like you do...way easier to expand too.

Only one alarm

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Hillard

Bite the bullet and get proper marine wire. This is a boat and will be around water. Eventually, your trailer wire is going to corrode and you will end up wiring it again. Especially if youre anywhere near salt water.

Mark

Trailer wire is tinned copper wire.

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by coopec43

Its on a boat...it can get wet...it will find a way. At the very least, exposure to humid, salty air.

The wires are insulated so hopefully they can handle the environment

....

Not the wires, but the connectors, ribbon cable connections are not waterproof.

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by belizesailor

Not the wires, but the connectors, ribbon cable connections are not waterproof.

Thanks for that

I hadn't really got around thinking how I was going to connect the ribbon wire to the lights. I'd probably twist the wires, solder and then use heat shrink. (One end will be inside the instrument binnacle which will be sealed from the elements so there should be no problem there)

I hear what people are saying about lightweight wire but if it is stuck to the underside of the deck it should be well protected...........?

[Wotname]

A handful of comments in no particular order.

Wire size - current wise, even #26 would be suitable so choose what would physically fit and what you can get locally. Even small wires will be robust enough if properly terminated and supported. Me, I would probably go for #22 as I find it easy to work with without being too small for my eyes (or tooling).

Wire type - get the best you can get locally.The ribbon cable is sort of OK although I'm not personally a fan of it. I find it hard to terminate unless using the ribbon type IDC connectors (and these aren't really easy to secure IMO).

Connectors - unless you want to fancy and get expensive watertight connectors, I would suggest D-sub connectors - should be available everywhere in Oz (try Jaycar) and cheap. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D-subminiature

Use good backshells and if you want to "waterproof" them, fill them with a silicone grease like DC-4.

Wiring loom - I'd be inclined to wire all the lights etc to connector on a very short loom and mount the connector on some chassis or frame. Do the same at the other end. Then make an extension loom to go between the two. You could even make a spare extension loom up and seal in a bag for whenever the first one fails

Having a disconnect point at either end makes fault finding easy should it ever be needed.