Wiring Xantrex 1800 watt inverter wiring

[geoleo]

Have one and don't like it as it has a automatic start up and incoming dock wiring must go thru it. BAH! I have a nifty rotating switch for distributing the AC. The inverter slot is empty . Anyone know a way to basically make this a manual start and use the switch? Thanks.

[dlymn]

To isolate the xantrex, you need a double pole double throw switch rated at over twice the maximum current draw of the system(imho). It is important to ensure that the switch disengages before it re-engages to avoid and source clashes. Using this switch you can direct power to your system from either the dock or the xantrex but not both. I guess that this might mean that the xantrex cannot be used to charge the batteries. The simplest way to solve this is to add an appropriate charger driven by shore power. Of course this means that you will lose the 'automatic' nature of the charger/inverter, but I reckon you might have already accepted that. To reinstate this service, will need a double pole three way rotary switch (or a triple throw if you can find it) You wire: 1 power to the system only and no xantrex, 2: power to the xantrex only, 3: power to the system from the xantrex. again no overlap switching. The reason for the double pole is to switch both active and neutral or on the 12v side positive and negative. This overcomes issues to do with cross wiring and should be mandatory on all high power systems on boats.

[exMaggieDrum]

My new/old boat came with an older Prosine inverter charger and it was wired so that all shorepower went to in on the input side and the AC output then went to the AC panel. If the inverter fails I/you can bypass it by taking off the AC input cable and the AC output cable and connecting them together using an "European" style AC connector. This should be securely mounted if you leave it that way for any time. I would disconnect the shorepower first and also the DC from the battery before this to avoid a potential fatal accident.

I did not want to do that if (when) it failed so I came up with a rotary switch that allows me to switch from shorepower or AC out from the inverter to go to the main AC panel. When on the "shorepower" setting it also supplies the inverter/charger with AC in so the charger can work. When on "Inverter" it will disconnect the shorepower AC from the main panel and from the inverter AC in. Note that the AC out will still be "live" but just not connected to anything other than the switch when on "Shorepower". I can also turn it to off so no power goes to the main panel but that isn't really required.

The switch I used was a Blue Sea 6337 rotary switch which is usually used for switching from shorepower to generator to go to one or Nottwo panels. I had to be creative to figure out the wiring. The drawback is that the switch is not inexpensive and it does require some installation work and maybe some pieces of new 10-3 AC wire depending on location and where the existing wires are.

I've tried everything I can think of to convert my diagram from MS Excel to a PDF that would be small enough to send via the Forum. Can't do it. If you want I can send it to you via an email if you contact me via a CF message and give me your email address. Or anyone else who might want it. I have attached the "normal" wiring diagram.

It is very straightforward if you understand AC basics and are handy at electrical wiring but don't try this unless you are sure you have the skills and knowledge. AC can be fatal or start a fire if not done carefully.

[svinshallah]

The rotary switches are fine but pricey. A good, less expensive solution is double-pole circuit breakers for each AC source. Blue Sea makes a $5 sliding stop so that you can only turn on one source at a time. It takes a little more space than the rotary, but you'd still need the circuit breakers someplace in the system.


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[smac999]

can't you guys read? he already has the switch....

if you can't wire 3 lines from an inverter to a swtich and have to ask best to hire someone. AC can be dangerous. this is supper simple if you know what you are doing.

[Terra Nova]

Just wire it per Xantrek's manual and be happy.

[Stuarth44]

wired many
depending where you are
in NZ AND AU. White is not allowed in USA white can be phase and so too can black
here red phase bl neutral OR brown hot, blue neutral
i have a TRACE WHICH WAS NAME BEFORE XANTREX for sale
3500 x 24 volt x 100 amp charger for sale in AU
The best ever

[mitiempo]

There is no reason to over-complicate this.

The inverter has a built-in transfer switch so it makes sense to use it.

There are 2 ways to easily wire it, one good one excellent.

1. Shore power to main double pole breaker. Remove jumpers from double pole breaker and run output to inverter input. Run inverter output to main panel hot and neutral bus. On shore power the panel is fed from the inverter's pass through. The downside is that any AC item on the boat can be powered by the inverter when away from the dock, such as the water heater, so it is important to make sure high draw items are left off.

2. Shore power to main double pole breaker as normal. One 15 amp breaker on the panel is wired to the inverter input along with the neutral. The inverter output goes to a small sub-panel that is only composed of the items desired to be powered when away from the dock, typically the AC outlets. Away from the dock only the outlets can be powered by the inverter. The inverter can be turned off with it's own breaker. This method has only the downside of the cost of a small panel for the outlets.

[40 South]

Originally Posted by Stuarth44

i have a TRACE WHICH WAS NAME BEFORE XANTREX for sale
3500 x 24 volt x 100 amp charger for sale in AU
The best ever

How much & where are you?

[smac999]

Originally Posted by mitiempo

2. Shore power to main double pole breaker as normal. One 15 amp breaker on the panel is wired to the inverter input along with the neutral. The inverter output goes to a small sub-panel that is only composed of the items desired to be powered when away from the dock, typically the AC outlets. Away from the dock only the outlets can be powered by the inverter. The inverter can be turned off with it's own breaker. This method has only the downside of the cost of a small panel for the outlets.

turning off it's own breaker doesn't turn off the inverter, it actully engages it. the inverter should have a remote control panel to turn it off and on.

there is no need for a 2nd panel. just cut the bus on main panel and split it into 2.

[Island Time O25]

When I decided to install an inverter, 2000W, I was advised by a marine pro not to complicate things and wire it directly to the + and - busses near the battery using 0 or 00 welding wires. I think that the number but not sure but they are a size or two larger than even my battery wires. Never had any issues since installation. If I need the power somewhere far from the inverter, which I placed near the nav station, I just use the heavy duty extension cord. Sure beats any worrying about electrocution, stray currents, etc.

PS As I am on a mooring I don't think I ever used shore power.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by smac999

turning off it's own breaker doesn't turn off the inverter, it actually engages it. the inverter should have a remote control panel to turn it off and on.

there is no need for a 2nd panel. just cut the bus on main panel and split it into 2.

You are right.

On many inverters you can wire a simple on/off switch to turn it on or off. This eliminates the cost of the remote panel.

True a second panel is not needed if you are creative. You do need to separate the neutrals feeding the inverter from the output neutrals as well though.

[exMaggieDrum]

Originally Posted by mitiempo

There is no reason to over-complicate this.

The inverter has a built-in transfer switch so it makes sense to use it.

There are 2 ways to easily wire it, one good one excellent.

1. Shore power to main double pole breaker. Remove jumpers from double pole breaker and run output to inverter input. Run inverter output to main panel hot and neutral bus. On shore power the panel is fed from the inverter's pass through. The downside is that any AC item on the boat can be powered by the inverter when away from the dock, such as the water heater, so it is important to make sure high draw items are left off.

2. Shore power to main double pole breaker as normal. One 15 amp breaker on the panel is wired to the inverter input along with the neutral. The inverter output goes to a small sub-panel that is only composed of the items desired to be powered when away from the dock, typically the AC outlets. Away from the dock only the outlets can be powered by the inverter. The inverter can be turned off with it's own breaker. This method has only the downside of the cost of a small panel for the outlets.

My installation is for an inverter/charger, not just an inverter. It is not a common thing to find and not recommended for the majority of boaters, and certainly not for someone who is not experienced with AC circuits.

It is possible to damage most inverter/chargers by "backcharging" them via shared neutral - when the AC and input and output of the inverter are not separated. The many boats that I wired with split panels I cut the main hot bus on the main AC panel so that the loads were separated by whether they were powered by shorepower or by the inverter. The neutrals have to be kept separate as well.

Just because something has a feature is no reason to use it. However, the transfer switch can really simplify the installation and most people would probably use it. It's drawback is that the inverter and its transfer switch has to work to have any AC on the boat. I had to remove many a unit off of customers' boats to get them repaired and to keep AC on the boat the incoming AC had to be connected to the AC out on a temporary basis.

That is the reason I wired my boat the more complicated way. I can use shorepower to power the Main AC panel and still send AC In to the charger function on my I/C. The AC Out of the I/C is disconnected so that forgetting to turn off all AC in the winter won't lead to dead batteries from space heaters/dehumidifiers left on from AC outlets if the inverter switches on. I try to keep it turned off but it requires constant checking and I have left it on at times.

Splitting off high current loads, like water heaters, air conditioners, etc., can still be done but that is a separate issue.

My more complicated setup is so I can have AC to the main panel even if the I/C or its transfer switch dies without doing any rewiring at the I/C. This rewiring is minor so this is a tradeoff of complexity and cost for convenience. Most boaters will not want to do this but some might.