Wiring shunt

[AKA-None]

Originally Posted by john61ct

To me the opposite.

A true master bank switch isolates the battery from **everything** that carries any significant current. Switching off should be the equivalent of disconnecting the wiring from the battery posts.

Including essential safety-related gear, anything with a parasitic draw.

You are suggesting that the switch even breaks connection with the bilge pump?

[john61ct]

Yes of course.

If you want to have distribution switches downstream, with less than essential vs very essential distinctions that's a different function.

The master isolation switch is for

**emergencies**, like a fire, major short, the bank is exploding

isolating the bank from **everything** for long term storage

working on the bilge pump wiring (or any other wiring) so you don't hurt or kill yourself

As stated, the end result of turning it off is the functional equivalent of removing the terminals from the battery posts or bolts from the threads, as in when you are going to remove the battery.

I really don't know how to be more clear?

[sailah]

I rewired my boat this spring using Maine Sails schematic already linked in last page. It all made sense to me then, and even more so now that I have been using it. All my loads go to house. Only thing connected to start battery is literally the starter. I have Blue Seas ACR to charge start bank. Monitoring everything with Balmar SG200 and my shunt is in same spot as yours, ie directly connected to house bank neg.

Be sure to fuse everything to protect the wiring. I find it's also helpful to lay things out before just randomly screwing to your boat. I had a very tight install space for this rewiring, bus bars etc so I did it off boat on a piece of plywood cut to fit.