Wiring of american to european shore power plug

[Yachtjuno]

thanks. i just read Calders chapter on this and i am even more confused!

i will wire it up as you did i think.

paul

[Miniyot]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

..., just like American sockets are unpolarised,...

In the U.S. our receptacles (plugs) are polarized, as are our light sockets (maybe in a way you are not familiar with).

I am an electrician with over 30 years experience.

As to the OP....you had a wiring diagram and yet you were still confused. You NEVER should have attempted what you did.

Yes I know this was an old post.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by Miniyot

In the U.S. our receptacles (plugs) are polarized, as are our light sockets (maybe in a way you are not familiar with).

I am an electrician with over 30 years experience.

As to the OP....you had a wiring diagram and yet you were still confused. You NEVER should have attempted what you did.

Yes I know this was an old post.

Im well aware of NMEA 1 plugs and sockets, I should have said "some", as older ones can be unpolarised.

dave

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by Yachtjuno

i know this is an old post but i wonder if someone could clarify for me.

i am making up a tail to connect a European yacht shore power lead to a US 240v dock supply. i have a European female three pin 32 amp adaptor at one end and a Marinco 50 amp male locking plug at the other. Can someone confirm if Golden Orchids wiring diagram for the Marinco plug is correct? There were so many posts on this subject with scary comments that i am now confused. any help gratefully received.

if you are in any way confused DONT DO IT.

[Yachtjuno]

what confused me were not the answers to the original question but all the old buffers ranting away at each other. how dull.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by Yachtjuno

what confused me were not the answers to the original question but all the old buffers ranting away at each other. how dull.

well I gave chapter and verse on this in this thread. ( and many agreed with my analysis)

However directly connecting a US split phase to the EU 230 VAC boat is a hack at best , yes it will work, yes it has additional fault modes and yes you need to understand the issues.

If you are a AC newbie, stay well away from this suff and just buy a isolating transformer or step up or engage a professional

Dave

[Miniyot]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

...If you are a AC newbie, stay well away from this suff and...step up or engage([I]HIRE[/I)] a professional

Dave

Always hire a pro if you have never worked as an apprentice or helper to an electrician. You CAN kill yourself or SOMEONE ELSE!

[nickvh]

I know this an old thread, but hoping for some guidance on what is not quite answered here. Seems like the split phase US power connected to the mastervolt or victron Isolation transformers should work safely to take the two hot (125v) legs of US shore power and provide a single hot leg to 230v for the onboard euro system like we hav ein our boat - anyone experienced this or solved this in some other way?

[valhalla360]

Originally Posted by nickvh

I know this an old thread, but hoping for some guidance on what is not quite answered here. Seems like the split phase US power connected to the mastervolt or victron Isolation transformers should work safely to take the two hot (125v) legs of US shore power and provide a single hot leg to 230v for the onboard euro system like we hav ein our boat - anyone experienced this or solved this in some other way?

What are you trying to power?
- Electronics: Generally they don't care what you plug into (check the lable of course).
- Resistance heating/cooking: Yeah it will work.
- Motors: They may or may not be OK with the change in Hz.

But what you suggest is a bit of a bodge job and can create other safety concerns. Check with your insurance company and see what they think of your plan.

[nickvh]

Everything on board! Yes aware of the frequency potential issues, im trying to maintain the onboard 230v circuits to all equipment but using the IT to solve that problem. Seems like some users have gone this way and others simply used powering the inverter/charger and solely relying on the batteries to drive the 230 power requirements on board which im not a fan of.

[valhalla360]

Originally Posted by nickvh

Everything on board!

Define "everything".

[nickvh]

Refrigeration, Reverse cycle heating, the usual range of pumps, electronics, Washer, Microwave and the 230v outlets for a range of smaller devices.

[valhalla360]

I'm seeing several items with electric motors...time to go thru them all looking for the UL tag that lists acceptable volts/hz to see if any have issues.

[nickvh]

Yes for sure, the shore power was previously hacked to use the L1/L2 for the 50A 250v onto the N and L wire of the 3 wire onboard system - i think that was done a couple of years ago with the previous owner, but as far as I can tell - everything apart from refrigeration is 50/60 compatible (and we are replacing that so not worried). Its really more of the IT option for taking L1/L2 into the IT then getting the right 250v(230v) output. I also have two inbound circuits 50A230v and a 30A230v circuit, so im thinking two parallel mastervolt 7 IT's for the 50 and 1 for the 30!!!

[Rocketpip]

Hey everyone, I'm about to wire in my EUE boat the same way as the OP. His diagram is pretty simple to follow. Was there ever any news if he had left it that way or did he in fact burn it down?
Maybe theres now a better and less expensive way to do this conversion properly?
Thanks Guys!
Rod.