Wiring advice for Bilge pump sensor switch please?

[bony]

Greetings,
I have purchased an UltimaSwitch electronic bilge pump switch and am a little confused as to how to wire it in. I currently have an Off/On switch on my panel for operating the bilge pump manually which I would like to retain. I would also like the UltimaSwitch to operate the bilge automatically when the boat is unattended. There is one Brown/White wire which the instruction say should be attached with inline fuse to the + feed from the battery, and a brown "relay wire" connects to the brown +wire on the pump. The black wire on the pump to connect to ground.

The same model switch is shown on this link -

Johnson Electronic Bilge Switch

Can someone give me a (simple) diagram of how to wire the UltimaSwitch in so that I can still use the pump manually via my fuse panel and on/off switch please?

Thanks,
bony.

[Capt Hugh Wilde]

It requires 3 wires and a 3 position switch to do what you want.
An auto circuit, a manual circuit, and a ground.
The auto and manual are tied together where it hooks to the positive on the pump, after the float switch.

Don't have a scanner or I would draw it for you.

[Capt Hugh Wilde]

Installing a Bilge Pump by Don Casey - BoatTECH - BoatUS

[Jacko]

Hi Bony the simple way is to purchase a bilge pump switch panel. It will have a two way switch with manual / auto position and a good wiring diagram of what you are after Cheers Jacko

[smac999]

do you not already have a bilge float switch? I have never seen a boat with out one. if you want to install this new one. just replace the one that's currently there. it'll be down in the bilge next to the pump. leave the switch as is. you probably have a bilge power wire on the battery going to the old float switch.

if for some strange reason you actually don't have an auto pump float switch already. then yes you'll have to run a fused wire from the battery, (before the battery switch), to one of the wires on the new float switch in the bilge. the other cable gets "T"ed into the power wire coming from the manual switch. no need to replace the switch on the panel. no need to touch the current ground cable.

[glenn.225]

I used a auto reset fuse like this in my wiring, just in case.

TYPE I ATC/ATO AUTOMATIC RESET

[wellin]

Hook up the auto switch as you have described and then attach the original wire from your manual switch to the connection with the two brown wires so all three wires are tied together. You will not have a real OFF position but that is an accident waiting to happen. If you use a "proper" on-off-auto switch your pump will not save your boat if you accidentally leave the switch OFF.

Sent from my SCH-I415 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[wellin]

And also re-label your off position on your switch to AUTO.

Sent from my SCH-I415 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[wellin]

And i think using the house batt for the auto side and the starting batt for the manual side would be good.

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[bony]

Originally Posted by Capt Hugh Wilde

Installing a Bilge Pump by Don Casey - BoatTECH - BoatUS

Thanks Capt. Hugh that weblink is what I needed.

"....if for some strange reason you actually don't have an auto pump float switch already....."

Hi Smac999, I have been renovating this boat from scratch and am almost finished. It didn't have a float switch installed when I bought the old girl because it didn't need one. The reason being that there was no bilge pump in the boat. Previous owner must have used a bucket!

My thanks to everyone else for their replies and good advice, I'm much obliged.

bony.

[Capt Hugh Wilde]

Originally Posted by bony

Thanks Capt. Hugh that weblink is what I needed.

"....if for some strange reason you actually don't have an auto pump float switch already....."

Hi Smac999, I have been renovating this boat from scratch and am almost finished. It didn't have a float switch installed when I bought the old girl because it didn't need one. The reason being that there was no bilge pump in the boat. Previous owner must have used a bucket!

My thanks to everyone else for their replies and good advice, I'm much obliged.

bony.

Use number 10 wire and heat shrink connectors. The one thing a bilge pump will not stand is low voltage. The pumps have #14 wire on them, but run #10 to them. With wire, big is good.
I usually use 10-3 wire to a Blue Seas terminal block so it is easier to change the pump and switch in the future.
Just makes a neater job.

[CharlieJ]

Regarding auto reset over current protection in Post #6…these devices are not permitted if you are attempting to wire in accordance with the ABYC Standards.

[sartorst]

apparently the switch and pump manufacturers assume everthing will be very close(small wire) but realality has long wireing runs so I have found relays were needed to drasticly increase pump output sorry this is sent from a phone and don't have time to explain better patients)

[Paul Elliott]

Originally Posted by sartorst

apparently the switch and pump manufacturers assume everthing will be very close(small wire) but realality has long wireing runs so I have found relays were needed to drasticly increase pump output sorry this is sent from a phone and don't have time to explain better patients)

I'm not sure I understand -- what's the relay for? Why not just use heavier wire?

[glenn.225]

Originally Posted by CharlieJ

Regarding auto reset over current protection in Post #6…these devices are not permitted if you are attempting to wire in accordance with the ABYC Standards.

True they are not but I still like them for certain applications that are subject to temporary jamming or plugging. Like small auto bilge pumps or wiper motors.