Starting again today I installed the belt and spacers for the tension arm. The tension arm needed to be straightened a bit so that the alternator would move from one end to the other without hitting the header tank on one side or the alternator on the other. I just put it in a vice and flattened it out a bit.
The old pump had the port open for a heater
, the other end of the circuit is on the head. But there was no heater core
so the PO just ran 6' of heater hose. The new pump has a plug
in the port so I decided to pull the host and close off the port on the head.
The port on the head had a Tee and that is also where the temp sender is. Just a bunch of brass fittings... Should be easy right?
Of course all but the fitting in the head came off easily. The one in the head was a 3/8" NPT nipple - or should have been. The nipple was threads from one end to the other and of course was frozen into the head.
I worked on it with vice grips and heat and PB Blaster and then a chisel. Nothing, not a budge. Expecting the worst I dug around and found a 3/8" npt tap and get a 9/16" drill. 37/64" is the normal hole size for a 3/8" npt tap but 9/16" (36/64") is listed as an alternate. I figured that 9/16" would be safer and less likely to damage the threads.
Using a cordless drill (and a shop vac) I drilled into the brass nipple. I had already cut the brass off flush with the head and at low speed drilled through the nipple
Now luck would look my way. As I poked a bit of brass off the edge I was able to grab it with some pliers and pull it out of the threads all the way to the bottom. Using the 9/16" paid off. Kinda like opening a can of sardines the brass just unwound out of the threads. No need to tap the head. the threads were undamaged.
I bought a brass coupler (3/6" male, 1/2" female) and screwed that into the head. The temp sender was then screwed in the the coupler. Great, now we do not have 6' of hose waiting to go bad and the them sender was installed.
The thermostat was installed, I cut a new gasket
and installed the header tank. Tension the alternator, with up the harness and positive and negative cables
to the house bank. Fill the header tank with coolant and we were ready for the moment of truth.
Turning the key the engine starts normally, No bad sounds - is good. Water pulses out the exhaust
and everything looks normal.
The alternator is only a 100 amp unit and at 1000 rpm
(need to recalibrate due to the 1:3 pulley ratio) the alter is putting out 40 amps or so. Then up at 1800 rpm
the alt is running at 80 amps into a 90% SOC 700 LiFePO4
bank. Bulk is set at 13.9 volts (I'll change this to 14.0 later)
Up at 2000+ RPM I'm seeing 100 amps or so. Not bad.