Where can I find new terminals for this cable?

[Dougtiff]

Being that the cable is way oversize, you can cut away some of the wire, and fit a smaller lug, [check a chart to ascertain the correct lug size], slip the lug on to the cable, but first slide on some shrink tube, even double up-two layers, you can use vice grips to crush the lug down onto the cable, and or use a hammer to crush the lug down, when good and tight, slip the shrink tubing down onto the lug, and heat, i have done this many times, the point is to make sure the lug is TIGHT around the cable, to eliminate any heat build up [resistance].

[Boatwright]

I have used a hammer crimper for many years for making up heavy cables in boats. It takes a bit of skill to give it a good solid wack with a 3# sledge. When stripping insulation cut about half way thru all away around and then a cut longitudinally. Use a pair of pliers to tear the insulation along the cut. This avoids nicking the conductors. Buy a bit of extra cable and terminals for practice.

These handy tools are readily available for $20. Will reliably crimp #8 - 4/0.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cable-Hamme...-/132074169267

Pull that old wire out. Cut it up if needed. Hacksaw or nibble it to death with a good pair of Klien electrician's diagonal cutters. Install a pulling line as you go to use pulling the new wire into position. The 1/0 replacement will go in a lot easier than the old one came out. Cover terminal ends with marine grade heat-shrink.

Be sure and use only marine grade wire and terminals. The marine stuff is also a lot more flexible. Your old cable has likely stiffened over the years as well.

[Paradoxus]

Originally Posted by Boatwright

I have used a hammer crimper for many years for making up heavy cables in boats. It takes a bit of skill to give it a good solid wack with a 3# sledge. When stripping insulation cut about half way thru all away around and then a cut longitudinally. Use a pair of pliers to tear the insulation along the cut. This avoids nicking the conductors. Buy a bit of extra cable and terminals for practice.



These handy tools are readily available for $20. Will reliably crimp #8 - 4/0.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cable-Hamme...-/132074169267



Pull that old wire out. Cut it up if needed. Hacksaw or nibble it to death with a good pair of Klien electrician's diagonal cutters. Install a pulling line as you go to use pulling the new wire into position. The 1/0 replacement will go in a lot easier than the old one came out. Cover terminal ends with marine grade heat-shrink.



Be sure and use only marine grade wire and terminals. The marine stuff is also a lot more flexible. Your old cable has likely stiffened over the years as well.

I use a hammer crimper combined with a strong steel C clamp, same result, no need to bang anything.

[Boatwright]

i have used a clamp on #8 or #6 wire in a tight spot. Never tried it on battery cables as there is normally enough room to work.

???

[RSB333]

Consider soldering the new lug on instead of crimping it.
RSB333

[Boatwright]

ABYC Marine Wiring Standards specify crimped, not soldered connections. Soldered connections have a much higher resistance than a crimped connection. Proper crimping of tinned marine grade wire results in a close atomic level bond across the connection.

[guyrj33]

I once had battery cables about that size on my car. No voltage drop starting the engine, you could hear the difference in cranking speed.

I repurposed the cable and lugs from an electric generation prototype the company was working on.

It looks like a previous owner has done the same. While it would be desirable to keep those cables and the associated minimal voltage drop, it might not be worth the hassle.

[Jetx]

As a few other folks have mentioned, if you're willing to "settle" for smaller (4/0) cables, there are a number of vendors who will make a custom set for you -- exact lengths and lugs for your installation -- at very reasonable prices. www.pkys.com and Marine Wiring, Boat Cable and Electrical Genuinedealz.com for example.

[guyrj33]

Originally Posted by Boatwright

ABYC Marine Wiring Standards specify crimped, not soldered connections. Soldered connections have a much higher resistance than a crimped connection. Proper crimping of tinned marine grade wire results in a close atomic level bond across the connection.

yes a properly executed crimp connection will have a lower resistance than a properly executed solder connection, BUT we're comparing small numbers here.
In fact the reason a soldered connection has a higher resistance is the fact that tin has a higher resistance than copper. But we're talking about crimping tin coated wire.

The best reason I know of favoring crimping over soldering is the hard spot that solder creates, which can lead to wire failure over time.
Either connection will be improved if backed up with adhesive heat shrink.

Honestly I think ABYC is well intentioned, but a little carried away with their own importance.

[David M]

Wait stop! It sounds like you have way too large of a diameter for what you need. Go back and determine what is the most amount of current your wire will need to carry and the run of the wire. From there get the properly sized wire. You will same money from having to buy massive crimps and you will more likely find a local boatyard that can do the proper crimping and you will not have to purchase a crimper that can crimp 4/0 cable and you will not have to struggle with routing this cable around your battery space and DC panel.

No, the ABYC does not allow for the soldering of wire terminals. Neither does the USCG for commercial boats. If they heat up they can disconnect creating an even bigger mess and possible electrical fire. Mechanical connections only. Soldering is okay for data wire though.

[JohnHutchins]

Crimping should be no problem. Just get a set of hydraulic crimping pliers. They can be found on Amazon for $40-$60.

These have crimping dies from 16-300 mm^2 so your MCM wire is in the middle of its range. I have a set and they'll go down to 6awg so quite useful for all larger cables.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZA2P3XM/ref=dp_cerb_2

I've found them remarkably useful and they give excellent results. You can even reverse the dies and crush small objects. I've also heard cutting blades can be had but I've not bought any. Really quite a bargain.

[guyrj33]

Originally Posted by JohnHutchins

Crimping should be no problem. Just get a set of hydraulic crimping pliers. They can be found on Amazon for $40-$60.

These have crimping dies from 16-300 mm^2 so your MCM wire is in the middle of its range. I have a set and they'll go down to 6awg so quite useful for all larger cables.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZA2P3XM/ref=dp_cerb_2

535.3 MCM I think you'll need an extra die.

[JohnHutchins]

Originally Posted by guyrj33

535.3 MCM I think you'll need an extra die.

The 300mm die will probably work. In any event, they can be found, similarly priced with dies for up to 600MCM. It's a lot cheaper than thousands of dollars.

[davewtsnape]

Wish sell an hydraulic 10 ton crimper for about $30.

[Boatwright]

Originally Posted by David M

Wait stop! It sounds like you have way too large of a diameter for what you need. Go back and determine what is the most amount of current your wire will need to carry and the run of the wire. From there get the properly sized wire. You will same money from having to buy massive crimps and you will more likely find a local boatyard that can do the proper crimping and you will not have to purchase a crimper that can crimp 4/0 cable and you will not have to struggle with routing this cable around your battery space and DC panel.

No, the ABYC does not allow for the soldering of wire terminals. Neither does the USCG for commercial boats. If they heat up they can disconnect creating an even bigger mess and possible electrical fire. Mechanical connections only. Soldering is okay for data wire though.

Thank you moderator David.

I see a lot of unsafe amateur wiring mistakes on boats. Too many well intentioned do-it-your-selfers who instead of either hiring a qualified professional or taking the trouble to educate themselves on safe DC wiring design and then shoots a question at this forum looking for a cheap shortcut is a danger to themselves and their neighbors. A wire carrying the current to power a 2kw inverter will carry enough power to arc-weld with. The same goes for large conductors feeding anchor windlasses and engine starter motors. All such conductors need to be properly sized, assembled, and fused. ABYC and USCG standards are there for good reasons.

Anyone who says:
"Honestly I think ABYC is well intentioned, but a little carried away with their own importance."
Should be ignored.