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22-06-2008, 20:07
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 262
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What is the correct connector
This is one of the electrical connections on my boat. It was also wrapped with inner tube held in place with zip ties. I have big hands, the thumb is for a size reference.
What is the right kind of connection to replace this with? I was looking on Blue Sea at the busbars, connectors and insulators section.
Looks like I could use a busbar or a power post. Is there a correct choice?
Thanks,
-p
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22-06-2008, 20:34
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#2
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Registered User

Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Winnipeg
Boat: None at this time
Posts: 8,462
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I would use a power post. Whatever you use mount it solidly so it's not just hanging there.
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22-06-2008, 22:39
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#3
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Senior Cruiser

Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Marlborough Sounds. New Zealand
Boat: Hartley Tahitian 45ft. Leisure Lady
Posts: 8,038
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What are the wires for and where is the connection found. It could be worth reterminating those as you have red and black and white? all connected together. Noit good for identification.
__________________
Wheels
For God so loved the world..........He didn't send a committee.
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23-06-2008, 00:19
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#4
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Senior Cruiser

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario - 48-29N x 89-20W
Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt)
Posts: 47,890
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Either will do.
I’d probably use a #2305 common bus bar (4 @ 10x32) c/w #2713 cover; but a power post (appropriate stud size) would do the same job.
__________________
Gord May
"If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"
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23-06-2008, 00:35
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Cormorant Island, BC, Canada
Boat: Lancer 44 Motorsailer
Posts: 1,875
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If that is a power feed point(positive side) and there is no fuse or breaker on the white wire the wire is not protected.
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23-06-2008, 07:56
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#6
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Registered User

Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Winnipeg
Boat: None at this time
Posts: 8,462
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Hey, good catch Lancerbye
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23-06-2008, 08:18
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#7
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Senior Cruiser

Join Date: May 2008
Location: near Annapolis
Boat: PDQ 36 & Atlantic 42
Posts: 1,178
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Covered bus bar, for future additions. It appears you have room for a small distribution box which would give you the option to fuse each lead appropriately. I would also hang a small ziplock bag of the right sized fuses near by.
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23-06-2008, 13:37
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 262
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I just bought this boat so I'm going to have to look at those wires again tonight.
I think one is coming from the battery switch (red), one to the windlass breaker one to the main breaker panel and then that white one I'm not even sure on a guess.
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23-06-2008, 20:34
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#9
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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Another comment...
I worry a bit when I see wires of very different sizes connected together as in your photo. In my experience with old boats it is very unlikely that the fuses for this system are of a size to protect the smallest wirre in the circuit. Fixing that issue could involve either fusing the smaller guage wires seperatly, running them as a seperate circuit from the main panel, or upgrading wire sizes.
This isn't trivial. Having fuses that are too big for the wire size is no different from having no fuses at all, and you wouldn't do that.... would you?
Bill
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23-06-2008, 21:20
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Cormorant Island, BC, Canada
Boat: Lancer 44 Motorsailer
Posts: 1,875
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Quote:
I worry a bit when I see wires of very different sizes connected together as in your photo.
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This is the reason I mentioned it. Many times I hear of people concerned about protecting the equipment with a fuse. The fuse or breaker in a source distribution application is there to insure that the current going through the wire will not exceed the capacity that wire can conduct without overheating. Every year electrical fires in boats, which destroy boats, are caused by this very common misunderstanding by boat owners. If a fuse is required to protect the equipment it is usually part of that equipment.
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23-06-2008, 22:45
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 262
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OK, I was correct earlier:
Heavy Gauge RED - Battery Switch
Heavy Gauge Blk - Windlass
Heavy Gauge Blk - Main Breaker panel
White wire goes to the gauges
Here is the back picture of that, the white wire is the one and the same as the one wired in with all the heavy gauge wires.
For reference that bracket bridging both gauges goes between the AC Line Voltage and the DC Load Current gauges
Anyone care to change their answer? I'm leaning towards the bus bar, just seems like it makes more sense. then I can change out things in the future independently.
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24-06-2008, 00:34
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#12
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Senior Cruiser

Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Marlborough Sounds. New Zealand
Boat: Hartley Tahitian 45ft. Leisure Lady
Posts: 8,038
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I am not quite sure why they are connected where they are. The picture has answered some questions and opened up far more. Would they could they, not be connected at the back directly to where ever is most prudent? First of all, your windlass needs it's own circuit to the main supply and its own breaker.
It has already been said above, but I will say it again. A fuse or breaker is for the protection of the cable, not the end unit. The end unit if other than a windlass, need a fuse at the unit to protect it.
__________________
Wheels
For God so loved the world..........He didn't send a committee.
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24-06-2008, 23:05
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 262
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The wire leading to the windlass is connected through a large breaker. Here's the what the back of that looks like. Its the black thing sticking out of the bulkhead.
Ignore those dangling taped wires to the left. I'm was in the middle of installing a new AC GFCI outlet and ran out of outlets so I taped off the wires, outlet now installed, I promise!
I'm going to go with the recommendation to put in the 2305 stud terminal with its matching cover plate.
Thanks a lot its nice to have so many knowledgeable folks on-hand. I hope through the years to be able to return the favor to the next set of new folks.
-p
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25-06-2008, 17:45
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#14
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Registered User

Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Winnipeg
Boat: None at this time
Posts: 8,462
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Even though the main wires are protected by a cct. breaker, that white wire coming off the connection is not protected. The reason for a cct. breaker/fuse in a cct. is to protect the wiring. Should the white wire short out it probably wouldn't trip that large breaker before starting a fire.
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25-06-2008, 23:48
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 262
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The white wire isn't going to the windlass. Its going to the DC Load Current gauge.
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