Volvo Penta Alternator Regulation By Mastervolt Alpha Pro II

[offpist]

You should definitely set the Maximum output down from 100% to something like 60-80%. (try to watch the alternator temp and try higher and higher output over time.. The over temp functionality should only be an "backup" not the main function.

After Mastervolt introduced the "Maximum output" i stopped using the "small engine" setting.

I dont like temp compensation for Lifepo4 so i turned that off.

My float is really conservative. you can use higher voltage.

Here is my settings:

[peder.berglund]

Many thanks for your input Offpist, very helpful.

THe settings are not final. I will definitely finetune the settings as the boat is put to sea. The plan is to spend some time to see what settings are optimal. The max output in conjunction with temp sense perhaps.

I also need a smaller pulley, the 1.65:1 ratio aint optimal since I cant get the alternator going at idle rpm.

Cheers

[leecarlson]

Great thread. Just repowered my sailing cat with new D2-75s. Also installed new 1100 amp hour Lifeline AGMs house bank. Want to keep Volvo alternators (100 amp output x 2 at cruising speed is more than adequate) and install external smart regulators. If i’m Reading this thread right Mastervolt is best bet as their n-type regulators would require less customization than regulators designed to work with p-type alternators.

Wondering what the difference is between Alfa Pro III and Alpha Pro MB? Isn’t obvious to me reading the specs.

Also wondering do I need some sort of Mastervolt display to control/monitor the regulators? I do not presently have any other Mastervolt products, but a combination of Victron (solar charge controllers) and Magnum Energy (charger/inverter).

Finally, planning on running both alternator outputs to a Promariner Proisocharge intelligent alternator distribution system, which will take both alternator inputs and distribute to four banks (start 1, start 2, generator start, and house) depending on need. Wondering if anyone has any experience with this product.

Thanks in advance for feedback.

Capt. Lee C.
S/V Delphine

[witzgall]

There is a safety difference when comparing externally regulated N-Type vs. externally regulated P-type alternators. On the P-type, if the field wire shorts to ground, you would blow a fuse (if one was installed.) on a N-Type, the field would go full-current, full-time. This would mean the alternator would be putting out it's max output, regardless of the alternator temperature, or the charge state of the battery. This can have some very bad effects, as you can imagine.

If you go with the Alpha regulator, you will need to install the additional Mastervolt 500 shunt to get both a battery temp sensor AND and alternator temp sensor.
With a 1100 AH bank, you absolutely need an alternator temp sensor, unless you like replacing alternators. The battery temp sensor will optimize your charging based on temp, and keep you from over-charging when the temperature rises, protecting the $$$ in that big battery bank. If you want to tweak the settings, you will need their USB device to connect to a computer running their software. From there, it is a really nice way to adjust the settings.

Disclaimer - I work for Balmar, and I previously worked for a Mastervolt distributor.

I am not familiar with the ProISO charge, I have to look that up.


Chris

Originally Posted by leecarlson

Great thread. Just repowered my sailing cat with new D2-75s. Also installed new 1100 amp hour Lifeline AGMs house bank. Want to keep Volvo alternators (100 amp output x 2 at cruising speed is more than adequate) and install external smart regulators. If i’m Reading this thread right Mastervolt is best bet as their n-type regulators would require less customization than regulators designed to work with p-type alternators.

Wondering what the difference is between Alfa Pro III and Alpha Pro MB? Isn’t obvious to me reading the specs.

Also wondering do I need some sort of Mastervolt display to control/monitor the regulators? I do not presently have any other Mastervolt products, but a combination of Victron (solar charge controllers) and Magnum Energy (charger/inverter).

Finally, planning on running both alternator outputs to a Promariner Proisocharge intelligent alternator distribution system, which will take both alternator inputs and distribute to four banks (start 1, start 2, generator start, and house) depending on need. Wondering if anyone has any experience with this product.

Thanks in advance for feedback.

Capt. Lee C.
S/V Delphine

[peder.berglund]

I asked the same question regarding the difference between Alpha Pro III and MB. THe answer from mastervolt is that the Alpha Pro III can handle higher field current and therefor can support more powerful alternators (+250amps)

As Chris mentioned you should add a Mastershunt 500 to your solution (and this will make you want to buy an easyview display) The Alpha Pro use the shunt to monitor battery temp, battery voltage and SOC so you can choose to start in float mode if the SOC is above a specified percentage. The display gives you all info about the battery health and regulator status.

Ive attached a screenshot of the alpha pro config screen so you can see what you can configure. I also attached a picture of my easyview display while charging

BR

Originally Posted by leecarlson

Great thread. Just repowered my sailing cat with new D2-75s. Also installed new 1100 amp hour Lifeline AGMs house bank. Want to keep Volvo alternators (100 amp output x 2 at cruising speed is more than adequate) and install external smart regulators. If i’m Reading this thread right Mastervolt is best bet as their n-type regulators would require less customization than regulators designed to work with p-type alternators.

Wondering what the difference is between Alfa Pro III and Alpha Pro MB? Isn’t obvious to me reading the specs.

Also wondering do I need some sort of Mastervolt display to control/monitor the regulators? I do not presently have any other Mastervolt products, but a combination of Victron (solar charge controllers) and Magnum Energy (charger/inverter).

Finally, planning on running both alternator outputs to a Promariner Proisocharge intelligent alternator distribution system, which will take both alternator inputs and distribute to four banks (start 1, start 2, generator start, and house) depending on need. Wondering if anyone has any experience with this product.

Thanks in advance for feedback.

Capt. Lee C.
S/V Delphine

[Oceansailor]

I went the other direction and rebuilt my Mastervolt alternator to P-type as I wanted the Belt-manager function in the Balmar regulator. Rebuilding the Mastervolt Alternator was easy as both field wires comes out of the alternator. Well that was some yeas ago...

I do have a Mass Combi and a Chargemaster onboard. Have been thinking about adding a Masteshunt 500 and Masterbus. Question: Will the Chargemaster use the voltage information from the Mastershunt in order to adjust for voltage losses between charger and Mastershunt?

[offpist]

Originally Posted by Oceansailor

I do have a Mass Combi and a Chargemaster onboard. Have been thinking about adding a Masteshunt 500 and Masterbus. Question: Will the Chargemaster use the voltage information from the Mastershunt in order to adjust for voltage losses between charger and Mastershunt?

Yes, it will, and that is an big benefit.

The same goes for the Alpha Pro II and III, and they also have Belt-manager functionality.

[Oceansailor]

Thanks Offpist. That is a big advantage indeed!

I’m reading the manual for the Alpha Pro III. I can not find anything about belt management? Do you mind sharing how that is done?

[offpist]

Its just not called "belt management".

Mastervolt basically has two options, you can use the "Small motor" feature or the "Maximum output" setting or even an combination of these two to get the output that you want without over stressing the alternator.

It gives you the same result as Balmar calls belt management.

If you have the USB to Mastervolt interface everything is so easy to setup, monitor and configure.

[Oceansailor]

Thanks again. Went back in the post and did find good info about the output limiting.

It certainly looks like Mastervolt have improved the regulator compared to the original Alpha Pro that came with my Alternator. I do like the programming interface! So much easier than programming the Balmar. As they have so much data with regards to voltage, RPM etc. they should really be i the position to charge and calculate SOC quite accurate,

I’m a little bit confused why you should have to run the power from regulator to the battery when the Master Shunt is installed? That does not make sense! I did see that you never got an answer on that.

[peder.berglund]

Originally Posted by Oceansailor

Thanks again. Went back in the post and did find good info about the output limiting.

It certainly looks like Mastervolt have improved the regulator compared to the original Alpha Pro that came with my Alternator. I do like the programming interface! So much easier than programming the Balmar. As they have so much data with regards to voltage, RPM etc. they should really be i the position to charge and calculate SOC quite accurate,

I’m a little bit confused why you should have to run the power from regulator to the battery when the Master Shunt is installed? That does not make sense! I did see that you never got an answer on that.

I have used my setup for a month now. So far it works great. Like offpist already stated, the Alphapro have something similar to belt manager. I choosed to limit my alternator at 90%. I also lowered the temperature where the regulator starts reducing charge power to avoid over heating of the alernator (I ordered the alternator temp sensor separately). I now have monitoring of everything, temp monitoring at the battery bank using the mastershunt and alternator temp monitoring.

Attached is my setup.

[CarinaPDX]

I just found this thread and really appreciate the information. Some thoughts and questions:

While the oil pressure switch is an elegant solution - the regulator is only fired up after the engine has turned enough to raise the pressure - it seems to me that there is another way that should work nearly as well. When I bought the engine I bought an "auxiliary relay cable", PK3593909, which is a Y-cable for installing between the multilink cable and the tach. This has a relay mounted on the 3rd end which is activated when the engine is turned on, the equivalent of an ignition switch. By connecting one of the relay contacts to the 12V+ engine battery the other contact can be used to power a ventilator fan and other accessories (e.g. ProIsoCharger), and in our case another relay for the Regon input for the regulator - no oil pressure switch required. The only problem is that the part number has been erased completely from the V-P site, presumably due to low demand. As it happens it is pretty simple to make, by tapping into the red (+) and black (-) wires on the multilink cable and install an appropriate automotive relay (mine is rated at 20/30A). If you want to make a neat copy then do this with a multilink extension cord. OTOH if there are no other devices that need an ignition signal the relay could be used for the Regon input directly.

As mentioned earlier in the thread the wire in the engine harness between the MDI and the alternator's D connection should be attached to the DF+ output of the regulator, or at least that is my reading. Thus no relay needed here.

I have bought a ProMariner ProIsoCharge smart battery combiner. It should work well with the stock system, as it has a sense output that can provide the voltage sense input to the unmodified alternator. Equally, that output should work well with the MasterVolt regulator's Regon connection.

Has anyone tried these ideas? Specifically using the aux relay, or the power from the multilink cable, to power the relay on the Regon input? And using the DF+ ouput of the regulator into the MDI harness? And finally the ProIsoCharger? I would appreciate any input.

Finally, I feel compelled to note that MV should not have used the Regon input for both the voltage sense and ignition inputs - there should have been two separate inputs, thus avoiding having the user provide a relay. What were they thinking? Other regulators switch the red 12V lead but I think MV wanted that un-switched for powering their bus. So a separate ignition input should have been used, perhaps on that 4th pin. No one is perfect... But this is one sweet regulator at a good price.

Greg

[peder.berglund]

I’m using the aux relay today and it works just fine.

Originally Posted by CarinaPDX

I just found this thread and really appreciate the information. Some thoughts and questions:

While the oil pressure switch is an elegant solution - the regulator is only fired up after the engine has turned enough to raise the pressure - it seems to me that there is another way that should work nearly as well. When I bought the engine I bought an "auxiliary relay cable", PK3593909, which is a Y-cable for installing between the multilink cable and the tach. This has a relay mounted on the 3rd end which is activated when the engine is turned on, the equivalent of an ignition switch. By connecting one of the relay contacts to the 12V+ engine battery the other contact can be used to power a ventilator fan and other accessories (e.g. ProIsoCharger), and in our case another relay for the Regon input for the regulator - no oil pressure switch required. The only problem is that the part number has been erased completely from the V-P site, presumably due to low demand. As it happens it is pretty simple to make, by tapping into the red (+) and black (-) wires on the multilink cable and install an appropriate automotive relay (mine is rated at 20/30A). If you want to make a neat copy then do this with a multilink extension cord. OTOH if there are no other devices that need an ignition signal the relay could be used for the Regon input directly.

As mentioned earlier in the thread the wire in the engine harness between the MDI and the alternator's D connection should be attached to the DF+ output of the regulator, or at least that is my reading. Thus no relay needed here.

I have bought a ProMariner ProIsoCharge smart battery combiner. It should work well with the stock system, as it has a sense output that can provide the voltage sense input to the unmodified alternator. Equally, that output should work well with the MasterVolt regulator's Regon connection.

Has anyone tried these ideas? Specifically using the aux relay, or the power from the multilink cable, to power the relay on the Regon input? And using the DF+ ouput of the regulator into the MDI harness? And finally the ProIsoCharger? I would appreciate any input.

Finally, I feel compelled to note that MV should not have used the Regon input for both the voltage sense and ignition inputs - there should have been two separate inputs, thus avoiding having the user provide a relay. What were they thinking? Other regulators switch the red 12V lead but I think MV wanted that un-switched for powering their bus. So a separate ignition input should have been used, perhaps on that 4th pin. No one is perfect... But this is one sweet regulator at a good price.

Greg

[HenrikB]

I finished my installation, the big question was how to get the "reg-on" signal from the Volvo Penta MDI-box.
Solution was very simple! I cut into the multi-link cabling from the MDI-box and used the CAN-bus 12V supply (same as the Aux relay uses). Very simple solution compared to oil pressure switch!
I use the CAN-bus 12V supply to trigger a relay that feeds also the DC/DC charger to bow thruster batteries, engine room fan, and the reg-on for AlphaPro.

[ryangalliford]

Super interesting thread! Thanks for all the info! As Im trying to get my system in order, this has been very helpful.


Can someone clarify, if using the Mastervolt regulator, does the Easyview allow you to change the alternator regulators settings? Or is the usb-masterbus interface required for that?


- Ryan