Victron Orion tr smart settings

[andrzej0nl1ne]

I'm installing the Orion smart 12/12 volt isolated DC/DC charger. The instructions describe how it automatically begins charging when it senses the engine running. Is there a way to have it start when it senses the solar panels begin to charge?

In my install I have both solar and alternator charge the firefly house bank, and I want to charge my new lithium battery through the dc/dc charger whenever the solar panels are generating power. Could it be as simple as engine-on and solar-on are one and the same to the orion?

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[Pete7]

I skipped the engine start malarky and just set it up to start on voltage but also have a switch to manually control it so I decide when it works. Our solar generation goes to our LFP/LA hybrid house bank.

How are you thinking of using the two house banks?

Just ensure the Orion has lots of cool air. Mine is installed with a 3" hole behind it and it still gave this reading after an hour.

Pete

[andrzej0nl1ne]

The new LFP 204ah SOK battery will be used for powering the navigation instruments and for minimal cooking on induction stove.

I may have to revisit the cooling needs.

Thanks for the input

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[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by andrzej0nl1ne

The new LFP 204ah SOK battery will be used for powering the navigation instruments and for minimal cooking on induction stove.

I may have to revisit the cooling needs.

Thanks for the input

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have a look at the max C-rate you are pulling. 204AH SOK has 1C capability so 204A but at that rate it will differ apart quickly giving your BMS a hard time and life cycle is compromised.at 0.5C its 102A, so with inverter efficiency it will be around 1000W you can use for cooking.
for these small banks I always recommend the Winston cells or drop in Victron (which are Winston cells)as they have 2C capability so you can really use them for cooking. and the small banks the cost difference is really marginal to the advantages they have.

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by Pete7

I skipped the engine start malarky and just set it up to start on voltage but also have a switch to manually control it so I decide when it works. Our solar generation goes to our LFP/LA hybrid house bank.

How are you thinking of using the two house banks?

Just ensure the Orion has lots of cool air. Mine is installed with a 3" hole behind it and it still gave this reading after an hour.

Pete

yes they are good ovens....just curious how long the electronic inside can withstand that.

[sailingunity]

If you have a BMV-712 you can program it to close a relay when a voltage is reached - presumably when the panels start to work in the morning.

You can also use the virtual assistant in a multiplus to do this.

[CaptainRivet]

Your solar should simply be started/stopped by the MPPT charing directly the LFP house and Not the starter. Only the alternator charges the FLA starter and via the DC DC then the LFP house. Doesn't make any sense that solar starts only charging when engine is running .

and if you have a BMS like Elektrodacus you can even get a start stop charging via DC to DC or MPPT due to SOC of your bank.

[smac999]

It turns on and off from charging voltage. (When changed from power supply to charger) Is has no idea if that voltage is from engines or solar. Either will activate it. If the solar is small and the first bank is low. It may not activate. Only as the first bank gets near full.

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by smac999

It turns on and off from charging voltage. (When changed from power supply to charger) Is has no idea if that voltage is from engines or solar. Either will activate it. If the solar is small and the first bank is low. It may not activate. Only as the first bank gets near full.

first wrong the Orion voltage sensing is quite fine and can quite well distinguish if that voltage comes from a shorepower or solar charger = don't activate or from the alternator=activate. it doesn't know that exactly that's why you still have in very seldom cases some malfunction.
you can also activate the Orion via the ignition cable, that's the safest and most reliable way to do it. then it always works

[Madehn]

Ok I’ll bite. Please explain how it knows 14.6 volts from solar is different from 14.6 volts from alternator. I find this hard to understand. Makes a lot more sense for it to measure voltage and turn on/off based upon that voltage regardless of source.

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by Madehn

Ok I’ll bite. Please explain how it knows 14.6 volts from solar is different from 14.6 volts from alternator. I find this hard to understand. Makes a lot more sense for it to measure voltage and turn on/off based upon that voltage regardless of source.

simple the phase in/ramp up of the alternator when it starts working is totally different to the solar. it's the way how the regulator on the alternator works. 14,6V is 14,6V but the alternator will get to 16V or higher for short moments and it's also the wave of the power is different of the alternator to a solar or a Shorepower...many ways to detect that.

[Madehn]

Thanks for the info!!

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by CaptainRivet

yes they are good ovens....just curious how long the electronic inside can withstand that.

Indeed, but we only run it occasionally and then for an hour. The quick fix was to remove the nav seat cushion and base which meant it was kept at hand warm temperature, so ventilation either natural or forced does work for the Orion.

Originally Posted by andrzej0nl1ne

The new LFP 204ah SOK battery will be used for powering the navigation instruments and for minimal cooking on induction stove.

Actually, I think you can do quite a bit of cooking and certainly a small electric kettle to go with the induction hob will save a lot of gas. Halved our annual gas usage this way. We haven't lugged a gas cylinder on and off the boat since Apr 21.

We have kept the gas just in case and since its a gimballed surface able to use it when its rough going to windward, that's F4-5 in a 31ft yacht Also nice to have some heat when sailing during the winter.

Pete

[andrzej0nl1ne]

Pete's description coincides with my intended use. The onions (2) are exposed to natural open ventilation and the cooking will be limited to water boiling and minimal frying.

Still undecided if I need a real remote switch or simply shut off the breaker on th input feed. I wish that there was a forced charge button in addition to the automated changing protocol.

Thanks all for your guidance and I'll be setting it up this week.

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[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by Pete7

Indeed, but we only run it occasionally and then for an hour. The quick fix was to remove the nav seat cushion and base which meant it was kept at hand warm temperature, so ventilation either natural or forced does work for the Orion.



Actually, I think you can do quite a bit of cooking and certainly a small electric kettle to go with the induction hob will save a lot of gas. Halved our annual gas usage this way. We haven't lugged a gas cylinder on and off the boat since Apr 21.

We have kept the gas just in case and since its a gimballed surface able to use it when its rough going to windward, that's F4-5 in a 31ft yacht Also nice to have some heat when sailing during the winter.

Pete

The cooking with the 204AH LFP is limited to 100A cont if you don‘t wanna shorten the life of your LFP drastically. Ok in reality if you have solar charging you can add that to the 100A of the LFP.