Victron DC-DC Charger Guru Wanted for Programming Question.

[Wotname]

I am seeking views on the best arrangement for programming the Engine Shutdown Detection parameters on a Victron Orion Smart DC-DC charger (12-12-18).

There are two DC-DC chargers between the house battery and the Bow / Stern thruster batteries as shown in the block diagram.

The boat lives mostly on a mooring and the thrusters only get used for a few minutes a year on average so the thruster batteries are mostly in float. The windlass does get used more often but again it's load is mostly light.

It seems to me to be appropriate to utilise the 'engine shutdown detection' features of the Victron charger to prevent the chargers operating needlessly but I am stuck between choosing the 'regular alternator' or the 'smart alternator' options or even perhaps a user defined option. Bearing in mind the solar panel with it's 100/30 Smart MPPT solar charge controller is in essence the 'engine alternator' for this scenario.

Thoughts???

[Wotname]

Hmm...more than a day and more than 85 views but no answers! Was my question too simple (unlikely); was my question beyond the expertise of the viewers (highly unlikely given the the number of regulars who visit this forum daily and who know way more about Victron products than me) or was my question badly phrased - quite possibly.

So let me try to explain better in the hope of getting some answers!

What is the best engine shutdown detection parameter to use in the situation explained in the OP?

The Victron DC-DC Smart charger has two engine shutdown detection presets, one for a 'smart alternator' and one for a 'regular alternator'.

The default is the 'smart alternator' which has the following settings
Start voltage - 14V
Delayed start voltage - 13.3V (120 seconds delay)
Shutdown voltage - 13.1V

The 'regular alternator' has the the following settings
Start voltage - 14V
Delayed start voltage - 13.8V (120 seconds delay)
Shutdown voltage - 13.5V

Or would a custom user defined numbers be better- if so, what?

Again, remember the solar charge controller is essentially the alternator in this case.

[smac999]

I would make your own settings based on the bulk and float settings of your regulator / solar. as everyone will have different settings based on their battery type. it will need to be slighter lower then the float setting. so it will still kick in if the alt / solar is in float. some batteries may have 13.4 as float or some 13.8v. so then it would be set to say 13.2 or 13.6v

if the set voltage is higher then the float, you may have days where it never starts charging.

shut down could be 12.8-13.x x being less then the float voltage and less then turn on voltage. so in the above probably 13v or 13.2v

it's been months since I looked at one. but I'm installed 5 later today on a boat so I'll take a look.

[Jammer]

It doesn't matter much. Either will work. I would leave it the way it is.



The "smart alternator" setting may deplete the surface charge on your house bank to charge the thruster batteries which: a) will be rare because you don't use the thrusters much, and b) doesn't matter much because your AGMs house batts will still be happy at 13.1 volts except on a really really cold day. And if you have solar going on a cold day it won't drop that low anyway.

[Wotname]

Thanks smac999 and Jammer, both very helpful and helps me sort out my thinking on the subject. I will be visiting the boat next week and make final adjustments then.

[Cowpoos]

I would just use the oil pressure switch on your engine to turn the charger on and off with the remote trigger on the dc -dc charger or wire it to the engine key on-off.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Cowpoos

I would just use the oil pressure switch on your engine to turn the charger on and off with the remote trigger on the dc -dc charger or wire it to the engine key on-off.

So would I if the engine driven alternator was the primary charge source but in this instance, the solar panel and the solar charge controller is the charge source.

As you will know, the solar panel turns on and off at random and doesn't provide oil pressure so a more complex software program is required. Victron provides two different preset programs plus a user defined option.

[Cowpoos]

Originally Posted by Wotname

So would I if the engine driven alternator was the primary charge source but in this instance, the solar panel and the solar charge controller is the charge source.

As you will know, the solar panel turns on and off at random and doesn't provide oil pressure so a more complex software program is required. Victron provides two different preset programs plus a user defined option.

Yeah, I didn't read your post very well did I...lol

I am curious as to why you want to do this though? If just left on the DC-DC chargers will charge the batteries and then float them, using a tiny amount of power while on the morning, on solar anyway. If there is another reason while using the boat you want them off, just wire on/off switch to the remote trigger. If you are worried about using power overnight, if fully charged and no fault with the battery they won't use almost any power.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Cowpoos

Yeah, I didn't read your post very well did I...lol

I am curious as to why you want to do this though? If just left on the DC-DC chargers will charge the batteries and then float them, using a tiny amount of power while on the morning, on solar anyway. If there is another reason while using the boat you want them off, just wire on/off switch to the remote trigger. If you are worried about using power overnight, if fully charged and no fault with the battery they won't use almost any power.

You make a reasonable point and maybe it is very relevant - I am new to using a DC-DC charger is this scenario but after a lifetime of installing other electrical devices I default to having them turned off whenever not required.
The owner of the boat prefers electrical stuff in general to 'automatic' hence using software to ensure the chargers are OFF when not needed but ON when needed.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Wotname

You make a reasonable point and maybe it is very relevant - I am new to using a DC-DC charger is this scenario but after a lifetime of installing other electrical devices I default to having them turned off whenever not required.
The owner of the boat prefers electrical stuff in general to 'automatic' hence using software to ensure the chargers are OFF when not needed but ON when needed.

Instead of turning off, I would lower the float voltage to 13.1V or so. I agree to use on/off switch as well.